Friday, September 7, 2012

Gold Bar

With the weather cooling down I've managed to get out to Gold Bar twice. The approach isn't as bad as many think but the best solution we found was many people and everyone just caries a double. Less weight and still enough foam. On the second trip we checked out some new stuff by The World's Best V7. The climb was super fun and after a few goes a send train rolled into town. Once it left I began messing around with a low start, pinching and squeezing a sloper. Well with david's kneebar idea, Kevin's footmatch, and my far right foot, it all came together and was sent! Worlds Best Low Start at a V8 or so. Gold Bar West has many cool problems that I'm excited to try over the year!
 David crushing Hagakuri V8 up in the Sanctuary
 Chase on the V5 left of Road to Zion -super cool pinch hold-
 Kevin dispatching World's Best V7 and below on the Warm Proj a super fun eliminate
                                                                                                            - no pocket/aretes -

 Quinn on Doja V7
 Me back on Green Goblin, V11
 Crimp, Kevin/Quinn working with the camera
 Quinn on Sobriosity V6, me working with the flash

Portland II

A couple weeks ago I headed back down to Portland to visit and climb. I like visiting the city once at the beginning of summer and once at the end of summer. I plan on doing this for years to come. On the list this time was Rat Cave, Frenchies, and Sweet Home. Rat cave was fun but I only did a 12c, Fully Warmed, and called it good, saving some energy for the rest of the trip. I look forward to coming back and finishing off the right side of Rat Cave. The following day we invited Joe and Naomi along. It was a fun filled atmosphere with me getting my crimp on and sending a new 5.12, BSD, and then jumping on Psoriasis, a pumpy 12d. With some more enduro it should go. The route consists of tiny crimps then some shouldery throws followed by more crimps, yikes!
On Sunday Lisa and I ventured out to Sweet Home to do some bouldering. The drive is pretty far to be a Portland area but the approach was nil! The area is small but densely packed with many problems. There are still ample unmossed classics that I will have to return for. The problems are fun even though the rock is basalt. All in all it's a nice area, shaded, with swimming minuets away.
 Lisa the gimp pre send of Shitfire, 5.13c -notice the duct tape-
 Stick Clip!
 @ Frenchies on Psoriasis -before-
 -after-
Lisa squeezing on a V7 at Sweethome as Eric watches on.