Spain Climbs

A Turòn 7a

I wish Washington had a fraction of the density and volume that Spain has. Granted it takes a lot of work to clean off the limestone conglomerate but still, I'm jealous. The rock had perfect texture save two climbs at El Chorro on the Swiza wall. Margalef-Monsant were both conglomerate and not only do the cobbles have texture the pockets do as well.

3 Rules for Sport Climbing In Spain
1) Don't follow the Bolt Line: Unlike in the US where the bolts are placed in the path of the climb in Spain the bolts are installed as directly as possible. Multiple times we were zig-zagging across the bolted line following the chalked holds and wondering 'am I supposed to go over there?' the answer is yes. Some routes even use holds from it's neighbor. It was weird at first but then we adjusted to this style.
2) No finish Jug: Just like the bolts the chains are placed at reasonable locations for lowering off 30, 25, 40m. Almost every climb has a HARD move to clip the anchors. The finish jug would be 6' lower than the chains?!? So remember to save some energy for the top or  slap the chains and take a victory whip.
3) I forget what the third was but most routes aren't fixed and have a single ring to lower off so bring slings to clean the anchor especially if you don't like the look of the single lower off biener.

 

There were tons of underclings too. If you ever got lost look for an undercling!

 The steep wall at Monsant with the classic 8a Hydrophobia

More Margalef
Next post will be about the Culture of The Olive Branch in El Chorro, Northern Spain and Barcelona!

Spain: CRAGS

Poema Cave, El Chorro

Scenic. The best word to describe where you are climbing at in Spain. The climbing itself consisted of fun and varying moment but the setting of each crag set the tone. Beatuiflly colored walls meandering into the Spanish forests retaking there claim to land in ancient orchards. The trees with the jungle-esc fauna helped enhance the otherworldly feeling of the areas.

Turon Left Side, El Chorro

 The rock was textured and solid on the majority of lines we tried. The golden rule was climb the ones with visible chalk and you won't be disappointed. 
The first area we climbed at was El Chorro. The walls had Stalactites and Tufas!!! The Sweeping views of the reservoir and valley below where enjoyable and made belaying a refreshing activity for both the skin and the eyes. Sorry for the short write up. I'm still in a fog from the adventurous (61 hrs of travel) journey home. More to come tomorrow! 

La Rambla Wall, Siurana