Red Point Film

Capitol Forest: Winterized

2012-02-05T21:20:00.000-08:00

Coming so close on Tigger!

This weekend I took a break form the city for some fresh air and some fresh food. Also, the weather happened to coincide with the weekend! Ketl form climbing team was free too so the two of us headed out to She Bear. My plan was to finish up some of the porjects and Ketl's were to get some new projcets. Well the road to the upper parking was snowed in and blocked by fallen trees so we quickly turned around and headed to the new parking lot. I've wondered for awhile how the approach is from below and it is a hair longer but way less steep! Eventually we made it up the hill.

After a quick warm up I gave Tigger a few burns and came hit the lip but blew right off. The I switched gears and put some goes into D12. The first big lock off went quickly and with some new foot beta I managed a slightly dynamic dead point to the 'tooth'! After blowing the V5 dyno finish, I quickly resussed where the jug was and sent! Finally! This was one of my longer projects and it feels real good when it all comes together and you can finally check it off. It felt only around V9, the problem boils down to a 3 foot lock off on crimps to a deadpoint to a tooth, then a moderate dyno. Three moves, pretty fun. There also now exits a static left exit from the tooth that might earn ten points, we'll see. And then there's tigger, one day it'll go, I'll try this one until I send no matter how long it takes! (I foresee some summer night sessions).

Winter in Leavenworth

2012-01-02T21:52:00.001-08:00

Ketl getting to crush a lowball V4.
Kawika sending Drugstore Cowboy V3
A little snow on the top outs...
St. Helens from good ole Cap Forest.
Urban sunrise during finals week. No more 8:30 classes!!!!

Over Christmas break I was able to Escape to Leavenworth and two kids from climbing team tagged along, Kawika and Ketl. This was there first time climbing in Leavenworth Ketl flashed th three to the left of the Shield and Kawika sent Drugstore Cowboy V3! I was just glad to get on some granite and repeated some easy stuff. All in all it was a good break with old time sesions at the Warehouse, Exbouldering, and lots of cookies! Now it's time to countdown the weeks to Spring Break and Joes Valley. Three months to train!!!!

November

2011-12-06T09:52:00.000-08:00

Miles off of Midnite, Circuit Comp finals!, Chunk of Granite.

November has been filled with lots of homewrk, writing labs and taking exams. Though the weekends have been filled with other endeavors. Thanks to Miles, I've been able to get out to gold bar a handful of times this fall. I've hit the lip of green goblin a couple times and messed around on Haga for a little bit. Then Jessie showed us Midnite and the Index boulders, they were damp but they are of high quality. Can't wait for spring!

I've also been doing a lot of comps too. Most recent being the Circuit's PBR. The circuit always sets to my strengths and this year was no different. I placed 6th in qualies to make fianls!!!!! Fianlly, a real finals. Lisa, as always, also qualified! Team Chulich! The gym had lights set up and put on a good show. Problem 1 was doable, 2 isnane, 3 hard, 4 fun. I got crushed but had a blast and was just psyched to make it. Hopefully they will take more to finals next year. The red point problems were hands down the funnest I've ever tried in a comp. They were straight forward no trickery 'you can send in 4 goes'. Oh, and very few crimps and lots of Compression!!!!! I'm looking forward to next fall and the BEST comp in the NW!

Back around Olympia I checked out the boulder chase found around Waddle Creek. Short but definitely worth the effort to clean it up. Also, that big chunk was found by a near by gate so there should be some more boulders found over Christmas Break! I also have two summer vid projects, Summer Sendage and 'The Other Boulders'. The first being all the classics of Thurston County being filmed and put together nicely. The later being a compilation of all the boulders Miles has found outside of Gold Bar and Leavenworth. But until Christmas it is finals and then some good old time sessions with Kevin and the gang at the Warehouse before the 2012 climbing season...

October

2011-10-18T08:21:00.000-07:00

All Edelrid.
Well with school consuming my life I was still able to get out to Leavenworth and gold bat once a piece. Also, competed in the Tacoma throw down and was one away from finals at sbp, they had long lines and some cool lines...

August and Stuff

2011-09-27T19:15:00.000-07:00

WhooWoo Waddle Creek Boulder!
Scary Move, Scary Landing, Trying the side pull project at Cooper Pt with only 1 pad, no go. Probably only round V4 if you ignore the scary side
Me FA Shallow Crossing. A cool V6 that David scrubbed off
Kaleb from climbing team ascending the V2 She Bear Slab!
Colin Migrating his way up to...

Recently I've been fretting about a place to live and getting everything organized for UW. I eventually found a place and began working at Stone Gardens. Prior to this I took Climbing Team out to the local boulders and they did well, crushing 2-4's. Oh, and I stumbled across this boulder a couple of days ago...

I also made a return trip to Kalaloch Beach 3 for the sandstone boulders. The boulders were shorter than what I remembered but the slabs were scary and harder than I rembered. All in all it was a very fun day at the beach, sightseeing with bouldering thrown in the mix....
The Slabs on the right and the cool steep line on the left
A Cool slightly overhanging problem on amazing sandstone!The fun arete!Rose beach?

Squamish: 10 Days!

2011-08-27T14:49:00.001-07:00

Tyler on Viper

Squamish was fun, really fun. It had it's up and downs but both David and I managed a lot of new sends. It was a surprise to see Micah as well. He crushed for being out so long and I can't wait to climb with him next summer.

Rosario Beach

2011-08-02T13:19:00.000-07:00

ROADSIDE!
Picturesc
Micah on Sissy Boy 12d
Kevin on Sissy Boy
Small but packs a punch. Rosario Beach is by far the best little crag I've been to yet. Roadside with bathrooms and water and swimming all right there! Dom, Micah, Lisa, Kevin and I had a blast trying the routes and interpreting the bolt lines. The routes feature mainly sidepulls and pinches which I enjoyed. After the warm up we got to work on sissy boy 12d and Dom managed a second go send and later I followed with a flash. It's a good route consisting of two boulder problems separated by a bad rest. Lisa and Micah came really close to sending and will no doubt come back and send. Kevin was destroyed from Infinite Bliss but made some good links as well. Towards the end of the day I got on the 13b and can't wait to come back and finish it off. Rosario is a sweet little secret spot that stays shady all day!

The rock was sharp, finished the climb to get draws back. Only a tiny scratch but lots of blood!

Smith: Christmas in July

2011-07-25T18:04:00.000-07:00

Pretty! Agro gully
One of Lisa'a P-town friends on the Quickening, one of the 6 climbing it that day
Agro...
Chas on an 11a
Dom on the same problem

Well, not exactly. It was only 70 in the shade and jackets were needed in the mornings and evenings. For this spur of the moment trip, I was accompanied by Dom, Lisa and Chas. Day 1 was sunny and we accidentally went to lower gorge. After going through my options I decided to give Badfinger a burn. It is a stellar 10b crack and I fell at the crux(3rd trad fall ever) and took once more but did all the moves. It was real fun and I would like to come back for the Red point. Next we headed over to the Pheonix Butress and I got destroyed on a techy 11c. I wasn't to psyched on the whole smith rock pebble smeary techy thing...
Day 2 was better and after warming up we headed to agro gully where armed with beta I managed a flash of the quickening, 12c. Then the day heated up and we finished it off watching Lisa hike Henious Cling 12a for the onsight! I might return in fall but we'll see...

In other news I'm almost done with the Olympia area bouldering guide. Turns out there will be aprox 100 problems spread throughout the county with even more rock outcroppings for those willing to hike. If all goes well I'll be attending UW this fall and that will be the guides release date, ideally. Fossil Rock bouldering isn't included due the horrendous approach, poison oak, ect. Here are some pics from the Skookumchuck crag.

Wet, but could clean up nicely, bout 20-25 feet, overhanging basalt, just need to remove grass from top, could also be a high ball wall.
But might just go to the gym...

Rat Cave: Knee Bars and Stick Clips

2011-07-15T13:22:00.000-07:00

This past weekend Lisa and I ventured on south to spend a weekend on the steep basalt crag of Rat Cave. We started on Friday and after getting close to onsighting the 'warm up' I tried a couple of other lines. One line I like was Shitfire 5.13b/c. This line starts up a good 5.12a and veers straight up some steep bulges. After going clip to clip I managed all the moves but the route was gonna be a race against the clock. Lisa then sent the 5.12b second go and returned to her propaganda-esc 12c.
We came back on Sunday depumped and armed with beta from the locals. It was nice. The weather was just cool enough and after receiving the correct sequences managed a send of shitfire 3rd go of the day. The route comes down to big moves off of pinches, underclings, and the ocasional sloper and crimp. The blockiness lends itself to many, many drop knees and these were key to the send. Another thing we learned is it is the norm to stick clip the first two bolts here. I also sticked clip a pre placed draw for the first time, on the 7th try! Lisa made great progress on Shitfire and she'll be returning to the crag all fall. I'm planning on returning too later this ummer to finish up some of the other good lines. If you like steep and bouldery, this is the place for you. But there is loose rock, trains yards away, a highway in the background, rats...

Also, Dom, Lisa and I meandered up to Little Si yesterday. Oval was wet so I worked my way up Gerbil Rising 13c and was able to get my beta back and could everything except for the Flatliner crux. I'm psyched to send this by the end of Aug. Dom is also ready for a change so for the next couple weeks we'll be venturing out to some new crags and try some new stuff!

Leavenworth: Sun

2011-06-29T15:34:00.000-07:00

Sunset

This was my last spring trip to Levy. It was spent mostly in the sun adsorbing the rays till the sun reapers on the west side...

Slingblade V6 below. The low start should go. Begin w/ left hand on crimp in the 'crack' and right hand on a sloper, then work into slingblade. Would love to see the sit start go!

Little Si

2011-06-15T12:24:00.000-07:00

A little blurry but this the Derik sport climbing Reptiles!
Ah, sport climbing season. Yesterday, Derik, Kevin, Andrew and myself all made it out to little si. After a warm up on Psycho Wussy it was a group consesus that today wasn't going to be a sending day. After we all got scared on lead I work my way up techno and Andrew did all the moves on TR! I feel that I'm lacking the enduro I had from last year but overall I feel good. Hopefully after a couple sessions I'll get my endurance back and start putting some work in...

Rat Cave

2011-06-13T11:59:00.000-07:00

On Friday, lisa and I headed out to one of Portland's cooler sport climbing areas. The rat cave has around two dozen steep, confusing, and fun lines. What it lacks in rock quality it makes up for in the 30 foot roof! We first tried The Maverik 5.12b for the warm up. I managed to onsight the 12a part and went for the boulder problem extension and was just able to hang on! Then after a 1/2 hour break to let the flash pump go away Lisa sent the first part 2nd go. Next was a steep 13b which has hard to decipher from the guide. As it turns out I projected up a dumb link up. After some better hunting, I took my way up the correct line which is a pinch fest utilizing a kneebar. The route never lets up and is going to be a good one to project for awhile. Here are some pics...
The 12a follows the R-L crack but the cave routes look amazing!Close ups

Cap Forest: Roadside Boulder

2011-06-12T09:36:00.000-07:00

The right arete, will soon be freed!
Evil neck high ferns!
The awesome left arete! Mini Saigon starts on the apex and goes up, around V1. Mr. Gadget starts on the left facing sloper and reaches left ot the other arete. Surpsingly more techinal than it looks, around V3. The Saigon arete goes right instead of left for around V3/4, again techinal and core intensive. Thanks to Taylor and Chase fro helping to brush
Below, boulder playin hide an' seek with us!
After doin' some hiking we stumbled upon this beauty. It now has a handful of lines on it. also, we are slowly crossing off hillsides in Capitol Forest, there are only a couple left.
Rat cave photos coming soon!

Capitol Forest Bouldering Vid!

2011-06-08T11:49:00.000-07:00

Fixed my quality issue. Here's a little vid to demonstrate what pictures and rumors can't...

Oly Boulder

2011-05-23T11:45:00.000-07:00

Crimpy east face
slabby west face
easy south face
slopey north face
Kevin working DL V9
as everyone knows, the best granite boulder south of gold bar is tucked away in capitol forest, a mere 1/2 from the WRG!

Leavenworth: Cotton Pony Dyno & Stuff

2011-05-07T13:50:00.000-07:00

The NC3 series wrapped up last weekend in whitman and what a fun series it was. I met a ton of other collegiate climbers as well as a bunch of pebble wrestlers. In the end, I took first over all in the series with my good friend Brian taking second and then the powerhouse Justin Wyse from Western squeaking into third. The comp was fun but they weren't prepared for the 'big guns' that showed up which led to ties and places being separated by falls. For open, it came down to one problem and I unlocked the sequence with on more fall than Brian. So, he finally beat me!

The previous weekend I did a solo mission out to levy and met up with Miles and Lisa. After trying a few things i ran into brian as he was trying his project, superman v10. After checking out a new area that day I also began to play around on the Ram v12 and managed to do a couple moves which surprised me and peaked my interest. On the way home I made a quick stop at Big booty bitch slap v10 and a after a few frustrating goes, unlocked the crux and sent! it made the trip worth it!

On Friday, we had a packed pilot consisting of Kevin, David, Chase and George. The first stop was mad meadows where i managed the finish of the ram. Now all i have to do is the crux! Kevin also made quick work of Hanta Mav v9 making it look easy! After the meadows we migrated our band of misfits over to forestland as david battled it out with the Coffee Cup v9. He came super close and will send soon. Next stop was was/is and derik gave was some good burns and Kevin stuck the iron cross on is. Then we made a quick detour to the Cotton Pony dyno v10 and i gave it a few burns, getting closer and closer until, i hit the lip and stayed! I was physched on getting this because in the past i thought, no way, the lip is miles away... I now can't wait to get this beast from the proper start. chase and george got footage so i'll piece it together with Miles send of pimpsqueak.

April Awesomeness

2011-04-18T18:34:00.000-07:00

Leavenworth
The Central Comp
Miles on an unknowm 'nosejob' v8 stand
There is granite in Olympia!
Expouldering on Sunday....

Recently I've been doing the college series comps and they've been fun and have had great prizes. Shout out to Central's amazing comp with quality gym problems that kicked my ass! I qualified first and finished second behind David Ackerman. Next up was a really fun weekend at the river boulders and then Miles and I met up with Lisa in Leavenworth. Last weekend was the U of O comp and their routes were fun but still college-ish. Can't wait to see the finals video. Once agian I qualified 1st and finished 2nd, this time behind Brian Adams, way to go! Sunday was spent expouldering Summit lake in all the wrong places and tomorrow we're gonna check out the gems.(We did and found 3 ish boulders a sick 10 ft one!) Also, a sick video is on it's way from index boulders and pimpsqueak. Finally learned how to use my title program too...

Bishop III

2011-03-20T16:29:00.000-07:00

Pow Pow in the Sads, Miles brushing and Jared watching
A very windy Milks
My awesome photo of Lisa on the start to High Plains
Man hunting dinner, hell yeah!
The Tableland...

This past week has been a blurr, either from sand passing us by in the milks, or the rays of sun blinding us in the Sads. This was not the ideal intro to Bishop trip I had perceived for Lisa. After a quick stop at the MAC in Portlandia to round up Lisa and her bags, Kevin, Lisa and myself headed out on our journey south in the spacious Pilot. Once we arrived at 3am, we got as much sleep as possible and then headed out to the sads for a return to the Ice Caves. After some fun warm ups we headed straight to Strength in Numbers, and excellent highballish V5 I'd previously wanted to try. After a pumpy flash Kevin and Lisa got to work and both dispatched! In the caves it was back to work and Aquatic Hitchiker(V10) went down in a couple goes once I found the proper start. Later on in the day Morgan and his crew of misfits joined us in the tablelands.
Monday we headed up to the milks for what would be the last time and Kevin and Lisa got on Fly Boy Sit(V8) and both came painfully close to sending, literally, since the thing is sharp! Next up we sessioned Stained Glass(v10) and worked our way to the middle, yeah for crimpers!
Tuesday was, well, HOT! we began by making it all the way to Bishop Creek and tanning by the waters edge until Jared and Miles joined the posse.
Wednsday was I think dedicated to the Sads and I made some progress on Beefcake, trying to relearn my beta for Beefy Geko(V11). Then a miracle happened and everything fell into place and Beefy Geko went!!!!!!!! 3 days of effort on this one
Thursday was my unofficial rest day. We drive all the way out to the happy's and relize that the wind blowing our pads around is not as fun as sitting in the sun so Lisa, Miles, Jared and I all migrate over to the Happies. Lisa had a good day of projecting the Hulk(V6) and crushing while I laid on my Mamutte tripple and tanned for a couple hours. I did managed a climb for the day though, an inspiring little overhanging fridge called Highbrow(V8). After stalling at the crux I decided I couldn't cut my heel to bail so I desperately squeezed my way to the top for the flash! Scarrrry!
Friday was a simmiliar stroy in the Milks but Miles and I made some -3 star classic FA's on the back side of the womb boulder(our wind Block). Once again we bailed and headed the the Sads where I came close to sending Aqarium, the V12 top out to Aquatic Hitchiker. Lisa came close to Pow Pow but by then our tanks were on empty.
The drive back consitted of snow and took a lot longer than expected but we eventually made it back. Now it is time to train the crimp strength and soon the enduro...

Winter Updates

2011-03-01T14:25:00.000-08:00

The past two weekends have been filled with granite and plastic. The prior weekend, David and myself headed out to Leavenworth for a two day trip and Morgan accompanied by his brother, Jeremy and Rick came for the day as well. We started in Mad Meadows and David and Morgan sussed out their beta for Pimpsqueak (V9) and David made amazing progress linking everything to to the top out. We ran into Kyle at superman (V10) and he gave the tricky kneebar starting beta for the climb. I gave it a couple burns and managed all the moves. Next was twisted tree and Jeremy came the closest ever to sending, going to the finish lip wrong handed!
Sunday we headed back up to Mad Meadows, David sussed his beta for the top out and literally came within inches of sending! I then headed up to Superman and after a few burns sent! i'm slowly running out of quick hits and now prefer two day trips to the classic Leavenworth day trip. Bishop in 12 days and then a handful of NC3 comps then it's time to switch to ropes mode...

Pictures coming soon...

Eastern

2011-01-30T12:37:00.000-08:00

This weekend we went on a mini trip to Cheney Washington, home of the National Champion Eagles. The plan was to go to minnehaha but Morgan and then Kevin wanted to hit up Leavenworth so we detoured and landed in Leavenworth around noon. The road was dry but there were some nice snow banks. First stop was Barney's Rubble and that whole boulder was dry. To get there, we leapped frog/assembly lined crass pads and walked on them to maneuver the waist deep snow. Next was the cotton pony pointer V10 but it took 10 minutes to access the boulder which is 20 feet from the road. And after our I slipped of the jug once again.
Next up was the hot tub and the NC3 Eastern Comp.
The problems were a little reachy and the 4 hardest problems saw son ascents. For finals, it came down to who flashed what seeing as all of open only did 8 different problems! The finals route was sweet which was pinchy. steep, and slopey. First burn i screwed up hugely. Second burn I pulled through the crux to the last hold, crimped it and finger gave out on way to top out! All in all an OK comp, most routes needed bump holds and CHALKED up slopers! but other than that rad movement.
Up next might be gold bar than UW. My finger is currently angry at me so we'll see by the weekend. The UW comp is going to be the comp of the season with all the big guns, minus UW's(they're setting), should be present! Oh yeah, go team OLY!
Session 1, the rest of the pics are blurry, my camera hates action...

SPSCC/Oly

2011-01-23T16:14:00.000-08:00

Go team SPSCC! Saturday, Western Washington University held the Season Opener for the NC3 Collegiate climbing series. For SPSCC we had myself and Kevin, for Evergreen there was Morgan, Micah, Dom, Chas and Elliot. Besides a curve ball thrown in of no smearing the comp was still fun with interesting and sometimes sandbagged problems. Myself, Morgan and Karl qualified for finals, all having a connection to Olympia as well. In the end with a flash of the third problem I managed to walk away with a free pair of evolves. Check Dom's site, climb8a, for a video and more info. Everyone else did pretty well too. Up next is Eastern and hopefully some granite!

2011

2011-01-20T10:41:00.000-08:00

It's been awhile since my first comp and I've come along ways since then. My first ABS comp was at Vertical World Seattle. I didn't even own a pair of climbing shoes yet! (those are John's purple Mythos). This was the Briggs YMCA climbing team's (Me) first comp. The Warehouse still wouldn't open for another two years...

Now having finally reached my goals I am hungry for more. For 2011 I just want to keep at my current level and hopefully, continue to make steady progress from year to year. With a strong crew to session and train with at the warehouse, they have made it instrumentally easier to go to the gym and work to failure on a weekly basis. Once again it'll be bouldering till may and then switch to ropes. Kevin is psyched to get back on the sharp end and it'll be cool to see what he dispatches this summer too. I also plan on doing some hard trad with Dom for a change of pace! (Ideally) Sunday at gold bar and then its up to the weather to see how many times I can my hands on some good ole' granite...

Leavenworth/Gold Bar Video

2010-12-21T17:42:00.000-08:00

Some footage has been posted earlier, but most is new. Enjoy!

Bishop!

2010-11-28T13:49:00.000-08:00

Wow, last week was not long enough! On this trip to Bishop, Team Oly comprimised of Me, Kevin, Micah, Derek, Jeremy, Reese, and Olcay! After running into four snow storms on the way down we missed Derek and his crew, so we decided to head to the Buttermilks. After warming up on the Iron Man Traverse V4, the best problem in Bishop, Kevin stepped up to the plate and flashed the testpiece fo his first Bishop Send! After a quick inspection, Fly Boy was icy so we moved over to Soul Slinger where Micah and Kevin made quick work to the crux, but once again the top out was icy. Next we migrated over to Evilution to the Lip V10, and got to work. The first throw to a right hand crimp took awhile to dial in, but two burns later Dan was giving me all the beta and I clawed my way to the lip! This is such a cool wall, steep, incut crimps, and flat landing! Perfect! Next was a quick trip to the happies where we played around on Jug start to acid wash right V7. After a cold night camping by the sads we finally met up with Derek, Jeremy, Reese and Olcay.

Day two was spent at the Happies and after an impresive send of the Hulk V6 by Kevin(with new beta) I began to mess around on Disco Diva V8 with Sam from the Stone Gardens climbing team, Derek and Micah. After watching a super tall dude cruise I borrowed the beta, and with some minor improvisions(dyno) sent this tricky and fun line! After watching some good burns on Morning Dove White we headed around the corner to Every Color you Are V6, a fun powerful line. After a sending I tried Mr. Witty V6, a highly technical V6 that shut me down cold. Shout out to Jeremy for crushing this line! Before leaving the Canyon we swung by Atari V6, a line I've been meaning to do for years. It was well worth the effort(glad to flash too, the fall is a complete miind trip!)

Day three was spent at a new spot for me called the sad Boulders. I instantly fell in love with this sector on some though provoking yet powerful warm ups. First up was Rio's Crack V6, and after a foot slip, sent this crimp line next go! Also, Olcay pulled out a surprised send right before we moved the pads too! Next was Pow Pow V8, another classic that involved compression and it went first go. The problem had such great moves and perfect incuts, Sweet! Then we migrated down into the ice caves. Beefcake V10 was the objective and after blindly(almost) finding the sequence I climbed all the way to the finish jug and snagged it by the tips! After a refresh the line went second go. I would've liked to stay and try the other lines but the sun was heading over the horizon and the mercury was falling.

The last two days were spent in the Milks, I was pretty sore by then and my fingers didn't exactly want to to crimp anymore. Micah and Olcay both dispatched High Plains V7 which was fun to watch. Kevin also flashed Smooth Shrimp V6/5, and Micah sent promptly. I then convinced Kevin to Project Bubba Gump V10/9 with me and I came close but not close enough to the final crimp.

The trip was fun except for the ever present snow on basically every high hill on the drive to and from Bishop. I've also noticed my style of climbing on trips like these have changed. I now prefer to spend all day on one problem, suss out the beta, then send later on that day or trip. I love how every problem in Bishop seems classic, more or less solid, and contains fun movements. Now, I can't wait to come back next winter and try the harder and more classic lines. Hopefully some climbing team kids as well as Lisa could come to and have a blast as well as crush some of these world Class Bouldering lines. Thanks again to Micah for driving down and to the whole Team Oly, it was a fun and hilarious trip, which keeps Bishop special.
Olcay on Morning Dove White Olcay sending Rio's Crack in the Sads
A View from the volcanic tablelandKevin on High Plains Drifter

Not to many pictures this time, but lots of sending/sun bathing, a video of some sends will be posted soon...

Leavenworth: Hit or Miss II

2010-11-16T14:04:00.000-08:00

Cotton Pony Pointer(almost) from Jimmy C. on Vimeo.

Well, on Sunday David and I completed our second day trip to Leavenworth. Warming up in forestland and once again seeing Johnny who stayed and said the weather was fine, we deciced to stay next time around. This time around it seemed everyother problem from Friday was dry. Luckily for David Back Door Ass Attack Low V8 was dry. This line had been a long term project of his and after a couple minutes of chalkin' and scrubin' to help dry the little dampness left, he sent!
Next up was another search for dry rock, with both Angolina and Turbulance being soaked it was back to Beautification V11? With some new beta I slipped off the finish rail once again and decided till wait till spring to come back and (hopefully) send this cool looking line. After a quick stop at Pretty Boy V7 (finally), we headed back up Canyon to Twisted Tree V7 where Jeremy made amazing progress, coming so close to sending, but slipping just short of the victory crimp!
The day was winding down and I decided to stop at the Cotton Pony Pointer, a line i had checked out earlier. After a couple 'I can do this burns' I linked the start to the big throw. Next burn my hand slipped of the razor sharp crimp and the onset of pain became everpresent after each successive burn. The best burn was sooo close but the body tension gave out! The vid is of two good burns(filmed on Jeremy's camera) spliced together.
On the way home, kinda cool. Next stop BISHOP!

Leavenworth: Hit or Miss

2010-11-13T11:30:00.000-08:00

The plan for Friday was to go to gold bar, but as we aproached the town on highway 2 the rain made it clear we were going to be driving for another hour. Not to worry, but as we drove into the Forestland Parking lot and hiked to the boulders, most were wet! David and I had a fun warm session at Sunny and Steep boulder and than hiked on down into the very crispy shade and watched Johnny on a new project right of Busted V8, which David came close to sending, doing all the moves but not linking. Next up was JY and by the looks of things it hadn't rained here. After we epicced on Right Angles V8 we moved on up to Mad Max V7 and with some good friction I managed to send it! Next was Beautification which happened to dry out by now. This is a really stellar looking line and after some burns, I began comitting to the huge move and came close to sending, slipping off the slanting jug.
With some daylight left we moved over a little bit to the WAS boulder. After a couple good burns, David SENT! I also manged to finish it off as well as Is, which was exciting due to a wet top out.

Was V8

Leavenworth lights as we leave town

Leavenworth: Beating the Rain

2010-11-09T13:57:00.000-08:00

Friday with 1/2 a tank of gas leftover from the impromptu Gold Bar trip, I put in the rest and headed on a solo trip to Leavenworth. I left Oly after class and arrived at the Millenium boulder a little after noon. After a warm up in nice, cold temps, I hauled my three pads up to Droppin' the Kirschbaum V10. After a couple warm up goes(and slipping off the lip) I manged to do all the moves on the sloping lip traverse back to the finish, a new high point! Few burns later i was standing in the off-width finish!
Next up I checked out Angelina Jolie V12 and made goo progress up the sloping ramp with just two moves to the finish! I then called it a day and checked out Turbulence V12 which i'm very excited about trying this weekend, The Cotton Pony Pointer V10, which I decided I wanted a spot for to prevent rolling down the embankment to the road. And also the V10 on the Hand boulder, the one move looks BIG.
Saturday night the light tapping of rain on the roof of the Pilot turned into steady rain and I knew Saturday was done for. So after getting up and stopping by Swiftwater(stuff was dry but felt too lazy to get wet) I made a very long trek home over Highway 2. I stopped off at every other Forest service road and re-found some cool blocks. There is some potential off of the trail to Mildred Lake, as well as Smithbrook. Here are the photos from smithbrook! Can't wait till summer!
The Pilot
The second talus field, contained two boulders, the other 50 yards to the left
3 feet from the road. Potential start on flake and up the arete.
The big boulder is 20-25 feet tall, arete!
The whole first Talus field. There is also another Talus field across the stream with potenital for sport climbing, and maybe some more boulders!

Gold Bar: Unfinished Buisness

2010-11-04T14:27:00.000-07:00

With class canceled on Wednesday, Derik, David Allwine, Kevin and I were able to leave early than expected and go bouldering. It was a toss up between Upper Gold Bar or Leavenworth and gold bar won. So with the mondo, a double, and two triples we made the moderate hike up to the boulders. Fraggle Rock was the first stop and after a quick warm up, Obesity V7 and Obesity direct V8 went down. I tried Obesity three years ago on my first trip here, we drove a minivan up, and haven't been back to the boulder since. David also sent in a couple burns.
Next up was Doja V7 and Doja low V8 which both went first burn of the day. I've tried these lines previously but never had enough firction/umph. The send train was arriving. First was David, than Derik, and after a dab Kevin!
I then tried Twisted V10 and Equinox V10 but failed, miserably. I'm pretty confident they'll both go when the sun isn't beam'm on the holds and with some fresh guns. And I'm still really psyched to hike back up to them!
Next we took shelter in the Sanctuary and headed to the Samurai Boulder. First up was Samurai V4 and both David and I sent. Than we all projected Hagakuri V8 and after some beta refining, I sent! With some time to kill Kevin and I both flashed Road to Zion V5 and by then the sun was setting fast, but not fast enough to stop David from giving Ross Bongo V8 a couple burns. He has it in two parts and the next sunny day he'll send it for sure.

Edgeworks: Blacklight Bouldering

2010-10-31T17:44:00.001-07:00

This past Saturday, the WRG climbing team, Me, and Lisa competed in Edgeworks' annual blacklight bouldering challenge. This year there were cash prizes for open. So I ended up competeing and then realized the likes of Sean McColl and Johnny G ventured on down. Well when the chalk settled I came in third and $10 richer($40 dollar entry fee), I also caught a t-shirt, revolution chalk bag, and a cool frisbee. Thanks to Art for his beta, I completed 750 pointer on burn #5! The problems were really well set and there weren't to many crimps! The climbing team did pretty well too. I'm psyched to try the rest of the problems next Wed after a couple Leavenworth trips.

Media

2010-10-26T13:41:00.000-07:00

Here are some pics from Gold Bar, Lisa on 5 Star Arete V6

Gold Bar: Return to the River

2010-10-25T14:50:00.000-07:00

It's been awhile since we went due to our comp so here's an overview with pictures coming soon!
On Sunday, Lisa David Allwine, and My Mom all headed out to the Gold Bar. Our first stop was the Index River Boulders. After doing some cool warm ups Lisa and David began sessioning Lego My Ego V7. The plan was to stay only an hour so I could finish off Chutzpah V11 and then head over to the east side for David's and Lisa's projects. Well when the hour was up Lisa and David were still on Lego! So we eventually meandered on down to the river and I sent Chutzpah, which seemed rather easy, first go of the day. Up next was the V8 and after some good attempts sent as well! Next up was Flower V8 and it kicked me but Lisa fell off the finish!
Lisa and Mom hiked back up to the car for Lunch and meanwhile David returned to Lego and sent! Good day, I then followed suit and joined him atop the boulder. We then decided to go to the 5 star since Lisa never been. It was a good descion. Lisa sent the 5 star arete V6 in a couple burns. I then sent Kambucha V7 and Ground Zero V8. Both David and Lisa seshed Ross Bongo V8 and will definitely send next trip. All in all it was another good trip to one of the most scenic bouldering areas of Washington. We also stopped off at Zeke's burger joint, a little pricy, a little greasy, very good!

Now I plan on watching the Leavenworth weather and begin some finger training for BISHOP!

Gold Bar: Weekday Win

2010-10-14T10:37:00.000-07:00

Class was cancelled due to the professor being out of town so what better thing to do than go bouldering, right? I was able to find Kevin with an open day in his work Schedule and it was a go. Also, Miles and some of his friends were going to meet us up at the 5-star. After a quick interaction with State Patrol, we made our way to the 5 star boulders which still has an erie silence around due to the lack of ORV/tricked out Jeeps going by. We warmed up on the V2 arete once again taking the whimp low exit due to the ever-present moss encroaching on the full version.
Now it was time for buisness. Kevin and I had previously vistited the boulder over summer, and left two projects unfinished. After a couple warm up burns Kevin dispatched Sobriosity V6 and then I got to work on Ebriosity V11. After falling off the finish move twice, I re-sussed my beta a handful of times and sent next burn! SWEET! Both of our porjects went! Next Miles arivved with Jared and Louis. Miles got to work on Ebriosity and Jared did and did. He sent in a couple burns as well. Meanwhile after a warm up burn on the first move of Ross Bongo V8-, I sent it and it felt extremely easy?!? Kevin said so at least (I guess I was in sport mode last time or the 80 degree heat).

It started to heat up a little and so Miles Suggested the river boulders and so we headed on down. Last time, Meg Kevin and I checked the boulders out and they looked awesome. First up was Hagakure V8 and it is a two mover that is definitely friction dependent, winter? So next we migrated on down to Chutzpa V11. This is a classic water pollished line that requires some serious core. After getting som beta from Miles we managed to get to the top out(crux) quickly and then began sessioning. After a couple good goes I found my sequence and came within 1 wrap of the victory crimp! Now I have tow climbs that I'm one away from doing! And Back at the 5 star, Kevin almost flashed Green Padded Ass V6 but skipped the crucial crimp and sent a few goes later! Here is the UNEDITTED footage of the almost flash and the send of Ebriosity.

(Videos coming, Library too slow)

Leavenworth: Still not Fall...

2010-10-05T16:09:00.000-07:00

With sweat starting to form on my back from hiking around in full sun up granite pillows, I realized that Fall has yet to return to Leavenworth. The drive to the end of Icicle Road was surround by the changing leaves though. Friday I made my first solo trip to Leavenworth to get a campsite for the family for the weekend. After setting up camp it was high noon and a good 80 degrees. Not motivated I drove to the end of Icicle and looked for some new rock. Didn't find much besides a handful of V0's but I look forward to the road opening back up in 2011 and for all the underbrush/rattlesnakes to disappear which will make searching easier.

Well I decided I shoudn't waste all day and decided to tie up some more loose ends on the Millennium Boulder. After warming up on the easy climbs I gave 2001, a crimpy V4, a go and managed a quick send. Up next was the Milennium Traverse V8 and after a couple burns sent as well. And since I was parked by the Lonely Fish boulder I meandered on over to Dirty Dude and after many a burn remembered my beta and got so close to the crimp once again yet fell short. So I then decided to trek up the hill to Droppin' the Kirshbaum V10. After trying the start I did the first move! Progress! Then I sussed it out some more and found my super toe hook and worked my way to the cool pinch in the guide book picture. Next I climbed the tree and worked on the final sloper traverse, making it half way. A few tries later I linked everything together falling two moves short of the top out section! I called it good and packed up and headed back to the camp site to make a fire in only two tries(with lots of pine needles)!
Saturday and Sunday were spent mostly messing around on easier stuff. My skin was dead and my muscles were achy so I decided I'll just come back next weekend. Lisa and David Allwine met us up there and David came amazingly close on Back Door Ass Attack Low V8 but couldn't pull the mantel. Lisa and Jack also came close on Pimpsqueak V9 but just needed some better friction. I'm excited for this weekend which has better temps in the forcast but rain for Sunday, we'll see...

Leavenworth: The Practitioner...

2010-09-14T15:03:00.000-07:00

Ah, it's nice to be back in Leavenworth, well, for the most part. As the years have passed, so have the amount of new problems in the valley for me and Micah to try. Micah, Dom Luara and myself made the trek over Snoqualmi pass and landed in 70 degree temps! Friday was just Micah and myself and we decided to hit up Forestland. After doing the normal warm up we tried a new V9 called The Crimpy Thing. It seemed hard and neither of us sent but it didn't feel impossible. After this we moved up to the Practitioner V11. After a mess up on the flash attempt I managed to get right below the final crux slap to the lip second go! If I had better beta I have no doubt in my mind this would of went second go. But, due to some soreness from Wed.'s ring workout, it had to wait till day 2.

Saturday was a different story. After a few warm up burns I sussed out some new beta for the finish which involved a heel hook to move my left hand to the good hold, which was my original beta minus the heel hook. Two burns later I was proudly standing on top! This is a really sweet compression problem that is right up my ally and I'm so glad I had enough juice and strength to send it. I knew spending all spring in the gym would have benefits but I never expected anything like this! So, just like the ropes wave, I'm going to ride the boulder wave all the way to Bishop...

Dom and Micah also had some close, but almost, sends as well. One notable attempt was Dom coming out of nowhere almost flashing the jib! After doing the crux, according to me, he fell on the difficult finish moves and afterwards didn't have enough juice to put it together. Also, he took a nasty fall on to me and Micah will have footage posted soon. Micah was an unmotivated Jimmy and repeated some classics but other than that was constantly thinking about Californication 13a. This would be an awesome first 13a for him. It's not the hardest 13a around if you have the proper endurance and Micah is ready to send! Hopefully he'll send this soon so I can get my boulder/spotter back! And, thanks again to Micah and his Subaru because with out them I wouldn't have been able to do over half of the climbs/trips. Thanks bro...

There will be a trailer for Crunked Climbs 20-10 soon!

Updates: Good Bye Summer...

2010-09-07T15:32:00.000-07:00

Well, the summer has finally gone away for another year and fall is slowly rolling. Just look out the window and you'll see the ever present rain and gray, gray clouds. After Squamish I went back to Little Si twice and felt really unmotivated and decided to call it quits for 2010 at WW1. It was a fun two month ride and I really enjoyed it and plan on repeating the process next summer. Congrats to Micah on sending his long term project, Cali 5.12d!

With the rain comes plastic and I have been less than motivated for that as well. I plan on finishing the traverse within a month, good goal no? The new climbing team finally came together with a few new faces too. They'll do fine again this year and they'll be fun to watch as well. Also, we now have an after practice ring session and it was brutal and good. I'm planning on this workout to help me get a little more power for bouldering and it is fun, if not historical at times, too. The best way to train and improve is to surround yourself with other climbers who are just as psyched and motivated to do so. They don't have to be pulling 5.12 or V13, but it certainly helps, but just plain PSYCHED! Last night seeing a dozen eager faces all wanting to get as strong as possible has re-amped my psyche and has kept me motivated to stay with the gym, working as well as climbing. I feel the investment is worth it. If the community isn't there, someone has to build it right? Just my thoughts...

Squamish: II

2010-08-30T11:45:00.000-07:00

Getting into the Forester I was thinking; why am I leaving, I just want to stay, for the second time this year. The first time this thought occurred was when i was leaving Bishop and felt like an idiot cramming back into the jeep and heading back to the rain city of Olympia, I already miss the real dedicated climbers, the amazing blocs, the relentless routes, and the climber scene.

This weekend Micah and I made the return journey back to Squamish and, unlike last time, found a campsite! Things were looking great already! We threw up our tents and marched out to the boulders. Our first stop was the Rookie V8 and after a couple minutes of debate of where the starting hold was, I flashed my way to the top! Micah gave it a few burns but had problems getting over the scary-factor of some of the moves. Then the rain came and after a slightly drenching sprint to the car, we decided to go and check out this new area called Paradise Valley, 5 miles north of town. So we got our rain gear ready for no reason! The place was bone dry! So we replaced our jackets for pads and checkout the rock lady, a long vertical face boulder. It had some cool probs and some very technical ones too. Micah fell in love and we came back here later.

Up next was the rope day and we visited the Sport Temples sister crag, Pleasure Dome. After a some what intricate onsight of the warm up I set my sights on the classic 13a Ibiza. After a longer than expected hang dog sesh it was time to red point. coming up to the first crux i hit the hold but my fingers screamed pain! and I let go. After pulling this move I took once more to clip and then made to the top. It was hard to let this one slip away but it'll be there next year, and so will my skin. After this it was going tot be a rest day afternoon and we headed back to paradise valley where Micah did some crushing on a V8 called Storm Trooper and flashed a V7! He hit his stride on these problems. Then we moved on to a cool steep problem called the fridge V7. This became a mini epic send for me getting to the last moves and not seeing a way to the slanted jug. So relying on what trad skills I have, I finger jammed with my left hand and then crossed over with my right to the victory jug! I then took the rest of the day off.

Saturday was my project day and it was to focused around Worm World Cave Low V10. I had previously sent worm world last trip and really wanted to do the low start. So we spread out the pads and i go to work. Micah kinda rembered some of the starting beta which wasn't working for me, so i tried it my way. After sticking this move I worked the begginnig in three pieces and then went for it. I got all the way into Worm World proper but din't know what to do after hitting the crimp, I then fell in desperation. After this i hopped right back on here, found the heel hook, and sent next burn, giving every move full effort to stay on. This is a problem that I was really psyched for and glad to have sent for my first solid V10. After this Micah tried a few problems and sent The Rail Thing V7 and then we headed over to the Rookie. Micah got started on this and I began trying the new beta I figured out over night. And after a few burns I was manteling over the lip! Another V1o, soft but whatever. Two in a Day! After this we ran into Sam and Audrey from Vertical World and tried a cool V7 caled styx that Micah sent 2nd go!

The last day I was wasted and didn't get on much besides a V8 dyno and a classic V4, both I was too lazy to put my shoes on for. Micah on the other hand was crushing left and right. After sending a V4 he went on to send V4, V5 and V6! I can't wait to start hitting up Gold Bar and Leavenworth this fall inbetween homework sessions and then the Bishop trip! No footage once again because its being saved for Crunked Climbs 20-10

Squamish: Buisness before Pleasure...

2010-08-24T16:06:00.000-07:00

It felt good to be back in Squamish. The land of no holds, body tension, and the heel hook. For 3 days Micah and myself lost a good amount of skin on the cool granitic blocs of Squamish. All in all it was a good trip and a good portion of it was caught on camera for Crunked Climbs 20-10.

Day 1 began with an epic adventure to find camping and we eventually pitched our tents behind a camper and called it good. We started off in the Grand wall boulders so I could finish off the classics Worm World Cave V9, and then Gibs Cave V8. We also spent some time on ATD which we both fired off. Micah had some pretty high ambitions for this trip and I had none. The first two days were rough for him but now he is REALLY psyched on bouldering and it'll be good to see what the new 2010 Micah busts out this fall. The second day we checked out a new area to us, North Walls, and found some cool classics and the place had a very Gold Bar feel and look. We tried some stuff and I managed a send of the classic Squealing Pork V7. Then on our way in to town,to kill some time, we stopped off at the local gear shop and Micah gave in and bought the new guide to the boulders.

The following day was supposed to be ropes but in the end it was another bouldering day. We checked out the sport temple at Chek and it is definitely a cool crag and it has some hard problems. I managed to send the 13a First Blood second go after dogging to the chains. After this Micah couldn't wait any longer so we headed out to the grand wall boulders so he could finish up the V8. After his send we migrated back to the North Walls and he seshed out a V7 and I threw myself at a, very, soft V10 and sent after 15 or so burns.

All in all it was a great trip especially with the rain holding off in the distance the entire time. I'm now psyched on the short stuff but will still hit up chek and then 32 on a regular basis until it is too cold. For now it's back to Squamish, and then a 4-5 day trip to Leavenworth, 32 on Thur back to Leav... Oh yeah, and School...

Newhalem: Granite, almost...

2010-08-08T11:18:00.000-07:00

Well, actually Newhalem is gneiss and in my opinion it's highly similar to granite in every way except for the texture, the stuff is smooth! After overgripping every other hold on the warm up I decided to just trust the smearies and, well, it worked well. Saturday, the hard core oly crew of Micah, Lisa and Me all piled into the subi for a longer than excepted drive to the sticks for some non little si sport clippin'. When we eventually arrived at the smallish cliff it blew me away! The climbs looked clean and easy to read plus they were highly over bolted(YES!). We threw Lisa on the warm up, Luna an excellent 5.11a, for the onsight and she did really well deciphering the cray moves all the way to the chains. Next, to keep the trend, we asked/persuaded her to try the 13a OSX first and she put the draws up to the crux. Micah went next and managed the slab but was too scrunched at the crux. I went next and flashed to the jug but only managed to get a pad in and then fell. After a quick sess to the top I sent next go and was happy to go to a new crag and do a 13. It is not really a sport climb, more like a V6, but what ev.

Next up was Lisa's adventure on a 12d which we found out later is a deemed classic, Cinnamon Grove 12c, but after getting shut down in the lower 1/4 part we had to call it quits due to a time frame. I look forward to trying to onsight this beast in the future. After this I was up on a cool 12b called shoe phone. After pulling the very cool first crux, I balanced my way up the top slab and to the chains! My first 12b onsight on probally the most classic(minus the slab) 12b I've ever done! The crux sequence is so cool! Then Lisa gave it a few burns and core shot the rope and had an impromtu lower. Next up was Micah who sussed out the crux but had problems on the slab. I then onsighted the 12b to the left, 12c for a day, and then roped solod(scary) a 10+ to get some draws back. All in all it was a good and fun day for me and I think Micah and Lisa had fun but they seemed to struggle with the lack of footholds and the ocasional power move on the vert/slably walls. I hope to come back here and clean up the rest of the 12s and proj. the 13s.

Also, the dedicated Oly climber crew is always looking for anyone who wants to get out for the purpose of rock climbing let me know, we always love fresh psyches! Come and join the projecting club!

Little Si: Send Train...

2010-08-01T12:45:00.000-07:00

Saturday, I think, made Little Si history for the most hard red points in one day. B-Hops Pornstar 5.13d, me Flatliner 13c, Alex Black Ice 13c, me Lizard Prince 13b, Dom Gerbil Killer 13a, Drew and O-town Psychosamtic 12d, and Josh Technorigine 12c! Wow, now thats a lot of Red Points!

Saturday was a good day for me, after an iffy day on thur I was glad to get back on Vanilla Ice 13a and I was getting Mentally prepared for a battle. Well things turned out different. WW1 was semi packed with a good vertical world crew. I wasn't able to do my Pyscho warmup and Bust the Move was occupied so I mixed things up and did Abo and went for a repeat of Chronic. Well, I managed to get to the chains, bust out 5 crimps moves, and hang on while doing 10+ climbing to the chains of Lizzard Prince! Then I gave Vanilla a go and fell due to nerves which is ok, i took the (mini) fall!

Then, well, it got awesome. After watching Dom crush Gerbil I still couldn't get on Vanilla so I said what the hell and hopped on Flatliner 13c. Well i managed to do psycho with less effort than ever and chilled at the changes more for mental reasons than pumpage. After doing the entry moves I shook at the mid route rest and then entered the crux. I stuck the micro crimp and held it together till the finish! I was so glad to have sent and the feeling didn't wear off till the next day. Scott, Nicholas and Micah also made some good progress too. So the current line up is Vanilla Ice 13a, Extended Illness 13c, Black Ice 13b/13c, Porn Star 13d(maybe)...

On a side note, Crunked Climbs 20-10 is in the works and will have a gym preview spring 2011.

Little Si: Another hot one...

2010-07-27T16:09:00.000-07:00

Sweating while attempting to shake out half way up ww1 is not high on my to do list. I have to say this is probably the last time I'll go to little si in 80 plus temps. Lake coushman seems more inviting from now on. But regardless of Washington summer heat, it was still a good day. We had a good oly crew compromised of me, Dom, Micah, Nicholas, and Antono. Nicholas sent Graven Image 12c, I sent Bust the Rhythm 12c and Viagro 12b, Dom sent viagrophobia 12d, Antono onsighted abo 11b. All in all an ok day.

Little Si: New Proj.

2010-07-25T19:59:00.000-07:00

This was the first time driving solo to north bend. The plan was to pick up Nicholas and then go to either 32 or 38. Well due to some rather hot temps, we decided on a WW1 day. I got back on flatliner and up to the gaston and then let go. I'm just going to have to commit and huck to the micro crimp and see what happens. I also decided to try Vanilla Ice 13a but whimped out at the runout crux. Alex Fritz arrived and after sussing the beta, sent 2nd go! I'm glad that this line shouldn't take to long but I'm not too worried either way. Then I'll have to give black ice a few burns once vanilla ges. So the line up is flatliner, vanilla ice, black ice, oval orfice or something. By the way, one month(or sub 70 temps) and counting till return to the boulders...

Little Si: 8a

2010-07-23T11:40:00.000-07:00

chronic finally went yesterday! I'm really glad to have sent this rad line and plan on trying the variations later. Now I really want to start working flatliner and send(hopefully) by end of August.

Meanwhile Lisa and Micah made outstanding progress on Cali. and both one hanged it. As of now, it's to close to call who'll send first but my money is on Micah because it'll be awhile till Lisa returns.
Nicholas and myself are heading up to crawling tomorrow and i'm excited for this line. so the little Si line up is Flatliner, Vanilla Ice, Bust the rythm/dreadlocked But i'm not too picky anymore and I might just end up trying the other 13a's until something comes along I really like...

Little Si: Phobias...

2010-07-20T10:17:00.001-07:00

Monday was a surprisingly chilly day and only the trio(Dom, Micah, Myself) were able to make it out to WW1. (We learned 3 people suck when projecting because you get to cold before you have to climb again). After a normal warm up of pyscho-wussy I gave Chronic a burn and finally managed the 1 hang! I fell due to pumpage after the middle crux which isn't to reassuring but I figure I'll find some other stuff to try while upping the enduro. Micah gave Californicator 12d a couple good burns and figured out why he was sucking this year. On a crucial crimp need to access the 'typewriter' hold, he was grabbing the flat part instead of the incut! Now his psyche is reborn and I see a send in the future! Dom wanted to keep his title so he began sessioning Viagrophobia 12d. He gave it to solid burns but got pumped towards the top and couldn't move his feet and fell. Since I've never done this route, I tried the slightly easier version, Hydrophobia 12c, the Rainy Day 12a extension. With some encouraging beta and some taunts I powered my way to the chains of this cool, yet tricky, route. After this successful send I decided to go for the harder version up viagro and after some long rests on the route, clipped the chains as well. So now the current line up is Chronic 13b, Oval Orffice 13a(maybe), Flatliner 13c, Vanilla Ice 13a. We'll see what happens...

So now on 8a.nu, the FRIENDLY Oly competition, I have now taken over Dom's endless #1 spot on routes and unless he dedicates more of his time to hard routes(less quantity) I'll never give it back. I personally feel he slacked off this winter(training wise, the team missed ya) and I also surprised him with some quick sends this summer. I expect to see him at climbing team work outs this fall/spring...

Video: Lisa on Culture Shock

2010-07-17T17:19:00.000-07:00

It's been awhile since I made a vid and just recently I started bringing my camera with me. Currently I'm almost done with Micah on Pyschosamtic and Andrew and on Virgins. Enjoy...

Culture Shock-5.12a from Jimmy C. on Vimeo.

Little Si: Gerbil Killer

2010-07-17T16:49:00.000-07:00

So this was my fourth day on and I wasn't expecting much after beating myself up at gold bar. Well Nicholas, recent town arrival, and Micah, and I headed out to the normal twice a week destination, WW1. After a rather pumpy warm up on Pyscho-wussy I Decided to give Gerbil Killer a go and see what happens since my draws are on it for the summer(or 'till the Oly crew sends it). This time i listened to the ample recommendations to do the first 3 clips of Psycho-wussy instead of gerbil due to the better 5.11 climbing. I said why not and stripped the first three draws. Then I headed on up psycho with the long draws and began the gerbil experience. I did the underclings fine then blanked out on the last moves of the slab forgetting a key hand hold. After this I did a quick shake on the 'jug' and did the uber lock off and the nthe crimp to the pyschosamtic jug. Now came the hard part. I did all the moves here clean but my forearms were pushed to their limits! I just kept my hands in the crimp position and threw the shoulders to the left and hit the jug! YES! Another climb form the list down! Nicholas had another good day re-sussiing the Chronic 5.13b beta and looking strong. Once he joins the ranks of oly/little si regular he'll be unstoppable and will most certainly finish off some Little Si Classics. Micah had an off day but will send his stuff soon, i think he just needs a mental boost. So, now the list looks like Chronic(3 hanged) 13b, Flatliner 13c and maybe Oval Orffice 13a. Back on Monday...

Gold Bar: Mo' Progress

2010-07-17T16:42:00.000-07:00

On Thur, Meg, Kevin and I went to the Upper Gold Bar boulders. After some trail finding difficulties(which involved an improntu trail run) we made the not so bad hike to the top. Our trail beta is to park in the first pull out past the 5 star boulder and the sign 'trail crossing' Then take the first trail on the left to the amazing ORV road bad the 5 star. Continue up this road until a stream/road appear on the left and take this to the switchback and continue up the logging road. Once at the top I did some new warm ups. The rock was feeling a little warm so we headed up the fto the forest and i sessioned out Lighten Up V9. I stuck the dyno in a few goes and then completed the start to the dyno. On my best go I came within inches of the victory crimp on the dyno but my right hand greased off! Next time. I plan on coming back when the temps are lower...

Little Si: Breakthrough...

2010-07-14T09:38:00.001-07:00

O.k. Don't fall here, trust the sloping foot, o.k., now left up to hand hold crimp. Right hand gaston, left to jug CHAINS! YES, I just sent the extension to Californicator, Californication 5.13a! Now my year is complete with a 7c+ bouldering and sport climbing! Lisa and I headed out to little si to meet up with some good Friends from the comp scene, Alex Fritz and Sam Wolf. Alex is an amazing sport climber and Sam is a, ah, boulderer. Needless to say, he sent techno with his own(wrong) beta and with messing up every other crux with out resting still crushed. Then Alex wanted to 'train' on Chronic, got to chains And then kept on going. Not to long after he clipped the chains of Lizzard prince 5.13b! First go! I then scooted on over to Gerbil Killer 13a and sussed out the beta taking at each clip to find the dang holds. Armed with some very helpful beat from Tyson I pulled the rope and gave it a good Red point burn. I managed all of the Gerbil parts clean but just couldn't recover on Psycho and fell off the dang crimp feet from the chains! So close to two 13s in a day! Next time. Lisa made good progress basically one hanging Prop. and Cali. I'm really proud and excited at have doing both 7c+ on ropes and boulderingin a year. I'm really really liking my fitness level right now and i'm now in love with little si. A new door into the13s has been open and there are tons of new problems to do and project! Next up is a day at gold bar working some tens and (hopefully) a nine to finish off the scorecard. Then fri. is crawling 13a and little si to follow. So the line up at little si is Gerbil Killer 13a, Chronic 13b, Flat Liner 13c and lizard Prince 13b. We'll see how many get done...

Gold Bar: Progres...

2010-07-12T10:27:00.000-07:00

On Sunday Kevin and I decided to go to the 5 Star boulder out at gold bar after a brutal trek in with 5 pads we made to the boulder. after a quick warm up Kevin began projecting the 5 Star Arete V6. With Josh's beta he then sent for his first V6! I then gave Ross Bongo V9 some burns and with more good beta from Josh managed to get past the first move and got to the last hard move! I have some crazy beta for the middle and I sure this line will go in the fall with sub 80 temps. With all the breakages the line is probably easier for those with reach but I feel it's still V9. Next we headed around the corner to Sobriosity V6 and Kevin began working it. I tried a few times before the beta came back to me and then I can say it is a V6(way harder to onsight though). After watching Josh send Ebriosity V11 I got pyshced. Armed with the beta I managed to get half way through the problem! Then after the crux Iron Cross I hopped on here and did all the finish moves! Then I tried to suss out the crux but with the temps increasing my heel wouldn't stay but I managed to do one more move, leaving only one left! I'm really pysched on trying hard stuff now because they appear doable. One more day of bouldering is on the schedule for thur. at the upper area and then it's back to ropes to get Californication 5.13a sent(it feels like a cloud over my head that i need to send quickly before i forget the moves) Then once this is accomplished I think It'll be Chronic, Gerbil Killer, Flat Liner. We'll see...

Little Si: Hot!

2010-07-10T15:35:00.001-07:00

So on Friday the Oly crew decided to climb at WW1 on the hottest day of the year so far. Needless to say we had the crag to ourselves and the rock was greasy. Besides that, I tried flat liner, 13c, and managed to work half way up it. I'm looking forward to giving this line some serious effort in the near future.
Also on Wed, two new/retro routes were established on TR, Pete and Ted's True Stories 11d/12a, and Never Give a Shit 12d/13a. I'll have to get Dom to help hound out the final grades of theses new lines that are set to be bolted shortly. The future looks like, gold bar Sun, Crawling on mon, quarry wed, gold thur/fri, Little Si Sun... I (heart) my driving license! I'm looking forward to sending the projects at Little Si now so I'm predicting a fun and pumpy end to summer...

Tieton: No hangs, no snakes

2010-07-05T12:41:00.000-07:00

Dom Taking pictures of Micah on Trigger Finger
Micah approaching the chains on Trigger Finger
Micah on Trigger Finger
After the warm up....
Early Picasso...

This was, by far, one of the funnest climbing trips I've been on in a long while. For the Saturday and sunday of the 4th of July weekend, Micah, Dom, Laura, and I all South to try some of the more moderate routes available at Tieton. For Micah and myself, the weekend began a day earlier with some Mo' Little Si Action on Friday. I sussed out the beta for Chronic, 13b, and now have decided and 3 projects in this order, Californication 13a, Gerbil Killer 13a, Chronic 13b, and maybe Flat Liner 13c if enough time. I also lead 12a/b/c/d and Friday for the first time ever too! So after sleeping in on Saturday and scrambling to pack all my things we headed out around 11:00 and set up camp next to a meadow. The first crag encountered was The Oasis and Dom, Micah, and Myself all wanted this 12a onsight. Dom went first and fell at the last hard move, Micah went next and found some better beta but took a hang or two, then it was my turn armed with both Dom and Micah's beta I gave it a flash attempt and sent! It was a cool climb but no stand out. Our next stop was the Dream Wall located next to Lava Point. the sun was starting to set behind the trees so we only squeezed in two pitches apiece on some rather neat 10's.

Sunday's plan was to go to The cave wall. This was a nice crag with shade options all day long. We started off at the Oak Wall, and I did a cool overhanging 10d as well as a 12a onsight. Then began the adventure of ticking and putting the draws up on the 5.12c, trigger finger. To do this I headed up a slightly run out 10c slab and almost barndoored off a hold but kept it together. Then I lower off on the overhanging side and placed the draws checking out the amazing crimps and holds on the arete. After the inspection I got ready and headed up. I managed to do most of the moves how I intended but found some easier beta up high. Then at the last bolt I was on a sloper and an ok jug my right and only foot popped and sent a square 50 cent sized chunk hurtling towards Dom. He took immediately and dodged the bullet while pulling me off. I then began yelling 'I'm still on' and he then gave me some slack and I successfully clipped the chains for the flash. Next up was Dom whom with the running beta and some improvisation flashed as well! Next were some cool 5.11s and out of nowhere Micah pulls off a 5.11d onsight! Way to go! We then piled into the Subaru and headed back to Olympia through the rain and clouds.

One Down...

2010-06-27T20:41:00.000-07:00

After Fridays reopener of the Sport Climbing season at Little Si, Micah and I decided to head on out for a return trip. I got dropped off at the base due to lisa's Vollyball match, and headed on up the trail an hour early until Micah arrived. After a quick burn on Psycho for a warm up I hopped on Californicator 5.12d and managed a clean one hang. I then gave it a second burn and one hanged a bolt further. I was decently tired by now and after a 1/2 hour or so of rest I gave it another burn just cause and before I knew it I was at the 'typewriter hold'!! This is the high point from last year. Then I got mentally prepared and busted out left on the smiley face crimp, moved the feet up, hit the sidepull, and then moved my left hand to a gaston just below the actual one, and then hit the hold and crossed the other up and then one last cross to the mid-jug!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This was my all time high point! I then mentally relaxed and began the 7 minute shake out. After I collected myself I then headed through the upper part that felt easier this year and I managed to stick every hold and honed in the feet and sent!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was happy and surprised but Micah was more surprised.

Season Opener

2010-06-26T19:20:00.000-07:00

This past week began the oficial start of the rope season for myself. It started off with a re-season opner at the quarry on wed. with an outstanding 19 participants. Sadly, half the problems were wet. Some notable sends were Luarra's and Sierra's red points of The Manly Wham, 5.11a. Also Victoria from the climbing team ventured out onto the real rock and Tr flashed Calvin and Hobbes and did all the moves on The manly wham! I, cough, finally, cough, sent all the established problems at the quarry. It took a year longer than it should due to my preconceived worries of the 5.11c Riddler. They proved unfounded and after watching Dom cruise it I sent! Now to do them all in a year!
Next was a Friday trip up to little si, my 4th climbing trip with ME driving. With only a minor red light sudden deceleration the trip went flawless and i enjyed the company and catches from the likes of Dom, Luarra, Lisa and Andrew. It was a good first day back with some good burns on Pyschosamtic, Techno' and Californicator. I have a good feeling 'bout Califonicato and hopefully it'll go soon. Andrew managed the send of Abo'. I'm now looking forward to some more clippin' action!

Signs of Summer: L-twon part II

2010-06-06T10:21:00.000-07:00

The Tree Problem-Leavenworth from Jimmy C. on Vimeo.

Well last weekend wasn't enough to satisfy our craving for granite blocks so Micah and I headed back out to finish up some business. The first stop were the sword boulders where I messed around on zorro some more then after playing on a few others I steered Micah towards the Tree Problem, V8. After an almost flash, he sent shortly after and I managed to make one of my best vids ever! After this success we packed up and made the hike to the Bond Boulders above the Fridge. We threw the pads down and began hucking off of From Russia with Love, V9. Then Micah remembered the key toe hook and the problem became doable. I was managing the first move pretty well and was hucking top the sun-basking lip, slipping off and landing 2-3 past the pads on the nicely built up landing(Which freaked out Micah every time but I'm over my fear of falling while bouldering). The climax was the desperate two hander that failed. After sticking the lip for a few seconds then falling I called it quits and it was off to Geronimo.
Once here I gave it a good burn and managed the send first go of the day as micah was about to take out the camera, oh well. Then at Yoda The brutal huck-fest began again but this time Micah pointed out a small left foot and, well, a few burns later and I was up on top! Micah came close too a lot of times the sun peaked over the boulder and zapped the phsyche right out of us. We then decided to throw in the towel and a good successful last L-town trip and started planning the Little Si summer. I'll probably be back to Leavenworth with the family but ideally not till October...

Ropes & Boulders...+Video

2010-06-01T08:15:00.000-07:00

Geramino V9 from Jimmy C. on Vimeo.

4 years ago form this weekend we pulled into the swiftwater parking lot for my first taste of leavenworth granite(pre-guidebook). Using the free topo from climbingwashington.com we meander around finding some contrived lines and falling in love with the place. I had the same feeling when i reluctantly left late Sat. night. Friday afternoon Lisa and I piled into the Pilot. First stop was supposed to be Poison Ivy Crack, but due to private property dwellings we couldn't find an aproach trail. So option b was attempt the small crag on the eastside of Madesen's Buttress. I gave La cucaracha, 5.10d trad, a go and after a long couple minutes scraped my way to the top for the hetchy-sketchy onsight. I learned for parallel cracks, cams are needed... Next was a bolted line not in the old guidebook that looked 5.9 but is accutally a 5.12a. Lisa went for the onsight and hung down low and I managed a beta flash! Next up was the 5.10 looking mixed climb and lisa gave a burn but downclimbed. I put in my two cams at the start(I needed one size up though) and headed on up the climb, comitted to the move that I thought was a match in a shallow pocket, BUT I chickened out attempted to down climb, fell and one cam popped but the back up held! This now is my second ever trad fall! This ended our rope adventure and we headed to the campground...
The following day we met up with Micah at JY. First, Lisa and I stopped at the Sword Boulders where I messed around on Zoro some more. This line will probslly take a whole day to complete. Once micah arrived we headed over to the Strainer, a powerfull lokking V9. I managed the send in a few goes and deffinately see how taller people could considder it soft. I personally liked it because it was a sustained powere problem to the very top(just ask Micah ;) ). After a couple more goes Micah hit the finish nob and sent his first hard problem of the year!!!!!
Next up was the forestland fiasco then we headed over to Mountain Home Road to try Geramino V9. This is one of the cooler looking aretes around. I'd lost a lot of my psyche by this time but still managed to slap the finish a couple times. I'm looking forward to the send next time I'm here. But micah looking really strong kept it together and sent! his 2nd V9 of the Day! Next we went on an exploritory trip then headed to the star wars boulders and began projecting Yoda. It is surprisingly doable and i was coming an inch within the jug.
All in all it was a good vacation and it was like old times bouldering with Micah in Leavenworth. Once little si dries out it will be rope season but till then more L-town and Gold Bar, and Squamish is just around the corner!

Movie of Micah on Geramino coming soon!

Non-bouldering Leavenworth

2010-05-24T12:10:00.000-07:00

The view from the crag of the enchantments
Yeah, that's the road and creek waaaayyyyy down there

Awesome but slightly dirty wall

I finally deiced to check out what all those other people do who go to Leavenworth and wonder why we 'play' on the short stuff. This weekend was dedicated to doing Outer Space on Sun. and trad/rope stuff on sat. with Keenan, a trad junkie from climbing team. Saturday we started at the sword boulders because keenan wanted to try the old school 5.11 the Sword V3. He sent after a few goes and a commitiing move to the top! Meanwhile I walked around the corner and flashed the Tree Problem, V8. A simi-cool short thing by the boulders down climb. Afterwards I played on zorro and found beta that works and I'm looking forward to sessioning this one in the future. So, now time for the ropes. We decided to check out a new crag called Lucky Dog. 1.5 hours and 3 ticks later we arive at the base of the 'alpine' sport crag. This so far was the farthest I've hiked for climbing. 'Hiked' is used liberally since the trail disappeared halfway up so we bush wackked up to the white wall. The first clmbed we did called JBT something and it was a good 5.11b/5.9. Super soft with a small coating of sand on every hold. Besides that though the route was very city of rockish and if roadside would be very popular. after slipping our way to the top we decided to move on to another, more clean area. As it turned out the clean area had a scary runout out the beginning so we called it quits and headed over to the offwidth Carnival Crack 5.10d visible from the boulders.
After some effort to set a Tr Keenan attempted the first moves but got stuck there. Next I tied in and managed to pinch the right side, palm the left side, and scoot my thigh jam(which left some marks) up the crack to the mid level slab. To get to the slab i busted my right heel out onto a ledge and heel hooked up to the last 8 foot section. This i decided to lay back off a good foot, hit a crimp on the face and slap to the top. 1st go! I was almost more surprised than Keenan, who knew?

Day two crux was the second class pitch of the classic Outer Space 5.9. It killed me but I managed to do it with a few falls. When we arrived at the base Snow Creek Wall it seemed smaller than what I imagined. The first two pitches we simuled and Keenan lead us too high. so after an impromptu belay and down climb we arrived at the base of the crux pitch. We broke up into 2 seperate pitches and I took the first. After a slip an' slide layback I reached the mid belay below a roof and built my first ever rad anchor. It consisted of two bomber nuts and a 3/4 lobed #2 Camelot. It held Keenan's slip so I think it passed...
Next I followed the curx and it seemed easier than I was told but the holds were flexin' more than any boulder I've done (Don't know how they're still there). Up next was the 5.6 pitch I lead to the Library ledge with a natural seat!
I (heart) Grigri. Self portrait on library Ledge.
Later Keenan brought up a good point that we were both constantly doing 15-25 foot run outs. The rock is so good up high and placements so bomber it didn't really manner. (Now I know how the Marc guy solod it) The final headwall was awesome sans my untaped hands which got destroyed. I loved the unreal chicken heads and only used the crack a few times (whatever). Keenan had the great idea to summit and we hiked an extra 50 yards to the top and the view was impressive. I could see the Straightaways to Forestland To Madmeadows, the town of Leavenworth, and out towards Pesachtin Pinnacles. Pretty damn awesome!

Now the tricky part was the descent, basically 3rd and 4th class scrambles where slippinig isn't recommended. After a short random rappel we hiked on out and headed on home. It's cool cause now I can point and say, 'yeah, I've been up there' I'm looking forward to doing some more trad and learninig how to properly jam(I would be screwed in Indian Creek). But all in all the past weekend was very fun and adventurous to say the least. It's Tue and I'm still recovering getting ready for either a sport sess. in spokane or (almost better) Weekend in Leavenworth WITH the pads being the main focus (Lisa doesn't know yet but she'll have to belay me on some trad though). I'm getting pretty exited for squamish, boulder and sport then easy trad on the rest days(or swimming weather permitting)

Rain City Send-fest

2010-05-10T08:10:00.000-07:00

If you've been climbing long enough you will stumble upon certain people with unbelievable finger/contact strength. Those who can hang on to the smallest of holds and fall solely due to technical errors. Saturday, I was in a car with two prime examples of this phenomenon. Andrew Hou and Kevin. Saturday was the annual UW Rain City Send, a college only comp. It was broken up into two sessions and Andrew and I were in the first. I didn't know what to expect since the comp was set by college setters and I was basing my perception off of Evergreen(no disrespect Micah) so I wasn't prepared for the awesome routes! I only cheated on two of them, doing it with Jimmy Beta. I spent the good part of the Red Point qualifiers sending the hardest problems except for the one, 890(hardest), which probably could go down in a couple days. Meanwhile Andrew was busy crushing all the moderates, thin techy problems on slightly overhanging walls. Next up was Kevin who has only been climbing for two years and this was his first comp. I first met him in the gym when he was crushing my V5s and V6s! So after a little persuasion he decided to help represent SPSCC. He did great for his first comp, getting close on a lot of V7s and running out of time to complete a fourth problem(I placed 2nd to dead last my first comp!).
So when the dust settled I came out on top and was set to go first in finals. The first problem startted with low hands, a high foot, then a super cross-over behind the head. I finally managed the first move on my 2nd go and then got stumped on the third and fourth moves not making it to the bonus hold! ZERO points! I was like 'f***, i just lost the comp in 5 f****n' mins'. (So, finals were Euro style where halfway through the route, there will be a 'bonus' hold worth 1 point and a finish hold worth 2 points) Next up were Brian froom central and Jake from a community college and both managed to get to the bonus hold. Now for final prob#2, I reset mentally and gave it a good go. The problem was my style and after a brutal one arm lock off dyno to an overhanging pinch, iron cross a 5 foot span, and then duke it out heelhooking slopers. Well I came within 2 holds of the finish. OK. now I felt like I stood a chance. 1o antagonizing minutes later no one else stuck the dyno to the pinch. O.K, so now we each have touched one bonus hold, but the second one was worth more! Win! All in all an awesome small comp with just some minor glitches in the final. (final routes should get harder as you go to eliminate people and make for a better show, not ridiculous hard starts). This comp and Darth Vader have re-amped my psych for bouldering so I have no clue as to whether it'll be little si or Leavenworth for future trips. Either way its going to be a fun packed summer with a road trip in the works. Mostly vacation with a little Yosemite hopefully. One last shout out to Community Colleges!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1st and 3rd in open and ex-community college 1st in Intermediate!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

See ya on the rocks...

Return to Leavenworth

2010-05-04T08:05:00.000-07:00

On Sunday, Lisa and I headed back out to leavenworth for another day trip. First stop was Egg Rock, Lisa hasn't been there before. After a short warm up we both gave Jerry Garcia a couple burns from the 'low' start. A nasty upper gaston and lower sidepull. This line will definitely go for lisa from the proper stand if not the low. Its cool, but a Little too balancy for my taste. So I ventured up to Musashi. The first sloper was in the sun so I started projing the stand and managed to do all the move save the first 2. I felt confident that it'll go when the temps are favorable(or summer night sessions!). Next stop was Mad Meadows where Lisa got back on Hanta Man and made some good progress but she still needs to suss out the crux. While she was proj.ing I headed up to the Playground Point Crags and solod a short 5.6 crack. There are a bunch of moderates I plan on doing up here while Lisa is in the process of sending Hanta Man.
Next was a quick stop at Dirty Dude where I made some really good progress. After a few burns I managed to touch the bottom of the crimp rail! This line should go after a few good campus board sessions. All it is is one BIG move.
Finally we finished the day off at Mountain Home Road. This area has the best views out of all of Leavenworth and as mentioned before, one of my dream locations for a house. Lisa got to work on Emperors lightning but she was pretty tired after Hanta Man sess. I began working Darth Vader(v10) and was able to do the burly undercling move on my second go. Then cam the crazy duel heel hook sloper matching up to a micro crimp and, ah, mantel. Lisa caught me a good 4 times, rolling off the top, grating up my right leg, and falling on too the pads. The sloping landing makes the spotter necessary. On my final burn I managed to get to the lip, got a super close heel hook, and pushed and pulled my way over! My right heel stayed put! (don't put your leg down for top out, this is what causes the fall i found out 3 times) YES! Finally a V10 that fit my style. I think boudlering is going to be on pause and its finally time to break out my new rope and see if I can nab a 5.13a in the same year. twenty ten has been a good year bouldering for me and I'm curious to see how it plays out on the sharp end...

(No pics or footage, once again my camera spent the trip in the car...)

Bishop Media

2010-04-02T21:29:00.000-07:00

Here are some of my favorite photos, still missing 1/3 from Amanda.

Lunch of champions, red bull and builder bar
The get carter boulder, stood on top 3 times, buttermilks
Jimmy on the cool Charlie Brown, V3, Painted Cave Boulders, Buttermilks
The hike(until we did the druids approach)/scamper to the happies.
Local Cactus.
Justin after the warm up on our last
Lunch after the Druids
Blurry but still a bad ass photo, me projecting Acid Wash, V10
On a hike to locate Solitaire, V8, Now wheres that dang boulder?

Another pic from Acid Wash, next trip...
Iron Man Traverse, duh,
The ride to the Buttermilks from camp, w/ 5 people in the Jeep!
Day 1, Ryan attempting the critic Green Wall Essential, V2, Buttermilks.
Me on a V6, above of Acid Wash, like the photo.

And I forgot, we hiked up to the druids one day which was a minor rest day for me, sending only Cayla, Arch Druid, Arch druid left, and kredluf. All awesome climbs. Also, for the hardest send of the trip Jimmy fired off thunder V3 and Cory did Arch druid minus the top out. Video online now on vimeo and below.

Bishop Spring Break 2010 from Jimmy C. on Vimeo.

Birthday in Bishop

2010-03-31T19:39:00.000-07:00

***In the words of Dom and Micah, Put a pot of tea on the stove for this post***
Better than Amtrack?

The ride to the Buttermilks from camp w/ 6 people, day 4

Wow, finally home from the past week which is now a blur of lost skin and enegry well spent on classics in the amazingly beatiful yet astetic lines from Bishop California. The journey began with a Jeep packing for the history books. Surprisingly enough, we managed to cram everything into the Jeep and headed south Tue night at around eight. The drive felt never ending, litterally, but we had some nice stops along the way. In the Cali city of Auburn, we stopped at Awefull Annies for some amazingly large and cheap vittles. After another infinite driving session with body parts nubing, the city of bishop appeared and we set of our camp at around 5:30. Pysched, we headed to the Buttermilks main area to get a taste of what we drove 20ish hours for. Now, I didn't know what to expect, Micah and Dom whom have previously made the adventure said it is very gym like movement. So after a quick warm up I headed over to green wall and managed the flash of green wall center(V6) and Green wall essential(V2). This is when I realized that I was in for a fun and crushing trip to Bishop and the problems aren't as criptic as I imangined them to be(granted, all flashes were beta flashes, with som any people, comp strategy came in handing when giving a flash attempt). We headed back to camp which was engulfed in 20mph winds and 40mph gust. Around 1 am the saying of the trip was heard over the gusts, "John your s*** is f****** everywhere." After this, I attempt to sleep in the Jeep's passenger seat, Corry was in the back seat, his tent one of the 4 who collapsed in the night.

Day two, the survvivors crawled out from under their tents and we decided that we will spend the day at the Happies(Don't remember exactly, but close enough). The Happies were not as cool as I expected but where more suited for those who love lowballs, cough, Jimmy W, cough. We warmed up near Heavenly Path(V1), an excellent intro into high and easy slabs. Then came the lowdown for the 4 out of 3 stars climb, the Hulk(V6). I managed my way through the juggy start to a hard right hand move to a crappy undercling, setting the right toe hook, and thinking "I have to really cross over with my right hand?" I went for it and in a swinging furry of legs, through my left up, and scampered to the to top. Flash. Next Up was Morning Dove(V7) white and with similar results of Hulk, Flash. I did start to get pumped on the final rail and had to crimp the hell out of the last rail to get to the the top. Next came acid wash(V10) where after some time managed the stand start and was hitting the starting rail of the sit but couldn't put it together. Next time. After trying a few others, Jimmy, Ryan, Corry and the rest of the crew headed back to camp. BUT, we were in desperate need of sleep and with predicted 60mph winds we anted up and got a hotel. We slept for a good 11 hours and then headed for the Buttermilks, round 2.

This day we began at the far side of the Buttermilks by Checkerboard. The previous day we checked out the area and located Solitaire(V8). This is a cool burley line and after a few burns of zoning in the sweet spot, I managed the send for my first, and Olys first, Bishop V8. I Was pretty damn happy about sending this line I doubted due to the big as, well, big moves. Next we headed back to the classics side and meandered over to high plains drifter(V7). After waiting around awhile watching(stealing beta, hehe) We laid down some more pads and I pulled off the start and entered the criptic sequence, In classic Jimmy style, my feet cut on the drifter move and I campused my foot over hanging onto the last two slopers then scampered again to the top of another Bishop classic boulder coming away with the flash. Then later that day(or another, I don't remember) we headed over to the get carter boulder. After watching a few people burn on Seven Spanish Angeles(V6) I stepped on up and worked through the slopers to a dyno. Now my right hand was still wrapped and I knew I was screwed, so when in doubt, BURL. I threw to the last crimp/slope w/ my right and hucked almighty to the finish hold, flash. (I remember reading dom's blog and seeing his picture and reading ...dyno..., so I went big). But, the day was not over yet. After trying to truly flash Get Carter(V7), I missed a crucial heel and fell. Next burn, with beta, stuck the heel and sent, could've flashed but didn't care. The left line on this boulder caught my eye and and start working Twin Cracks Left (V9). After making progress through the first crux, I chalked up, felt strong on the first left hand finger lock, and ended up on top of this boulder for the third time. Not a bad day.

Day three, (There's a rest day in there somewhere). Return to the Buttermilks, This is the second to last day and we were all feeling a little sore and beat by now. We started off at the Iron man Traverse(V4). This is only 3 stars in the guide but deserves 4. Way better than the hulk. Jimmy and Ryan gave it some good burns and came close to the last move, but will definitively send next year. Both managed to do the V2 at the Grandma Peabody for a send and this trip was a good motivation to hit up the gym more and get ready for Leavenworth. After sending the traverse with feet, next burn was sans feet to complete the warm up. (Now by this time I feel a little bit like an ass hole, flashing everybody's past and current projects, but I got over it pretty quick ;) ). Next we meandered but to Fly Boy where I again, ah, flashed, the line but this one was different. I had to fight my way through the series of crimps and I remember thinking before the final throw, "f*** I'm pumped here goes nothing" then boom, I stuck the lip and litterly grovelled over the lip for the flash, pumped to hell. (*The video will show me shaking my fingers because this was the first real PAIN I felt. My tips were beginning to get raw and the pain actually penetrated my mental zone and I had to fight to ignore to stay on for the flash. But as you will see, similar to my shoulder, you can't ignore it forever) The day was not over yet, next stop was Soul Slinger which after unlocking the critic upper crux, I sent right after Evan, a guy form the bay area. This basically sapped all my energy and was the end of my trip.

The next moring we headed back to the Happies and I gave Toxic Avenger(V9) a good go but was too tired to get it. Bishop was an awesome adventure and I managed to try many classics but I have so many left too do. I'm real excited for next year where it's in the works to return, but were planning on getting some cabins! The setting is amazing and Leavenworth is very similar to Bishop and is comparable if it sees enough traffic to become as polished. Sadly, I didn't make it out to Owens River Gorge but next time, hopefully. Well the bouldering bug bit me hard and it'll be difficult to put my harness back on but I think I hear Little Si calling. By the way, this was the second climbing trip we had to change a flat tire making for two 20 hour drives.

More Pics and Video coming soon... -jimmy

Plastic Pullin'

2010-03-14T14:10:00.001-07:00

Just a quick update, over the weekend Lisa competed at the MAC Multnomah(Portland) Athletic Club's TR Long Haul Comp. The gym is in a basketball court, and covers the entire length of the court. The walls are Entre Prises panels and a cool gym, but by far too small. Lisa ended up in first, out of 3! Afterwards we headed over to Club Sport for some enduro(60 foot walls!) After flashing their hardest boulder problem(V9 from some sort of Comp) I tried the imposing 13-, pumping out at the entrance to the crux. Next up was a 12+ and I managed the onsight to the last clip, missed a hold and fell. Two minutes later, clipped the chains for a 1 hang! This is the first real test of my sport climbing strength gained from the few weeks of training I've been doing and I'm just a little behind where I was last year pre SCS Nationals. I'm definitely in good bouldering shape so that will be my focus for the next month or two. Then it's off to chasing down Dom and nabbing the 8a #1 sport climber title he's had for too long now! (Pathetic motives, but at least it gets me on a rope)
-jimmy Let the count down begin, 1 week, 2 days, 2 tests, 10 page paper, BISHOP!

Revenage on the Rain, Leavenworth

2010-03-08T09:34:00.000-08:00

Finally, perfect weather in Leavenworth for the Beaty Family. Last Fall I took Ryan, Amanda, and Jimmy out to Leavenworth for a hopeful two day trip, as we drove up to the city, the 30% chance of rain kept on pouring. So we attempted to climb in the Swift water cave and then called it quits, packed up and headed on home. On Ryan's previous trip to Leavenwoth, he unintentionally experienced the unrelenting heat of a Leavenworth summer sun.

But the snow capped peaks told a different story this time! The pair of siblings, Ryan and Amanda, Lisa and I, got out of the cramped Jeep and made our way to Mad Meadows for some warm up and projects. We started off a the Hueco Route, an excellent V1 with an V11 finish I'll project some day. After a rather quick warm up Ryan and Amanda began sluicing out the beta for Drug Store Cowboy(V3). Ryan, dispatched the line from the proper start and then Amanda followed from a stand. (This is her first 'real' outdoor climbing trip). I gave the peephole a few burns after relearning the sequence and feel confident it will go with some dedicated weekends of projecting. After our thorough warmup we migrated on up to the Pocket(V4) and after a mini photo shoot of Lisa headed even further up to allow Lisa to return to her duel with Hanta Man(A monkey God, Ryan told us, he learned from a Religion class project, fitting name). She made good progress on the roof V9 but still couldn't decide what to so at the crux. We'll definitely be back here for some more. Ryan and Amanda then started projecting Sponge Bob Square Pad(V3). A rather technical and burly 3. After a few good efforts on the opening moves Ryan sent The Tentacle(V3) 2nd go and Amanda followed quickly. Then after watching Lisa throw herself at Hanta Man for awhile we moved on to the Hook Creek Boulder which none of us have ever seen before.

The boulder was, well, HUGE! About the size of a small two story house. Luckily the cruxes are within 10 feet of the round. I gave Atomic Energy(V9) a couple burns, shredding my elbow on the wall, leaving a few nice gashes on myself. Then two burns later my left hand blew and raked my knuckles deep, making for even more blood. The line starts off the ground with two O.K Feet, crossing to an O.K crimp, then the fun huck out right about 4 1/2 feet to an in cut slot. It took about 8ish burns to finally hit the slot(and nothing else on the way over) and then did one more cross to a jug that leads to the high top out. This is an excellent climb minus the difficult down climb(5.6 slabbish thingy).

Our final stop was the Carnival Boulders where Ryan fired off his first V4 2nd go, Giant Man. He also made good progress on The Rib(V4). If we had another day he certainly would've sent. This trip was a good practice run for Bishop. Ryan and Amanda need to learn to trust their feet and have faith in the pads beneath them, and I learned my knees are going to KILL me. cramped for hours on end. Next weekend is a comp at the MAC in Portland, so no rock unless the weather holds and then maybe some ozone, but if not the next installment will be from BISHOP!

Vantage

2010-03-01T13:09:00.001-08:00

Some PicsThe warm up .10a
BOULDERS!
Yeah, photo evidence of me trad climbing!
Sunshine Wall before sun set.
Josh on warm up, .10a

This was my first trip to Vantage and it was pretty fun, definitely makes me appreciate granite though. After 5 minutes of trying to find out where we were due to the fact that almost all the pillars look the same, we located a cool looking 5.8 that leads into a .10a. It was fun and after we all did this climb the next stop was some trad! We located two short trad climbs that were next to each other. Josh took the left one and then I took the right one. They were a little dirty because they were put up the day before! (The FAer walked by and told us we were the first besides him on it).
After the new climbs we headed around the corner for some old classics. The first was a striking pillar called Sunshine Buttress, 5.10a. It had an easy start to an exciting finish. Stu managed the onsight of this radical line. After we all gave it a go we moved over to the classic crack, Air Guitar 5.10a. Its a slowly widing crack starting with finger jams to off hands at the finish. Josh took the onsight but messed up 10 feet in, lowered and then fired off second go with a harrowing finish and a semi-stuck hex. I went next and managed to flash the line using more crimps than jams but felt pretty satisfied with my climbing, I'm guessing 60-70% of my pieces would've held, so I'm glad I flashed it. I would like to come back and try some of the other trad lines here too.
After the exciting traditional climbs we headed over to the Powerhouse Wall so I could try the two .12s. Well, The first one is King of the Ruins and besides getting lost at the crux, pumped out of my mind, and taking three times, it went well. (I've decided basalt which has a gazillion chalked holds is not the best place to practice onsighting) It was a cool line and I tried King Connection, another .12a, and had a better result. I managed to only one hang it! After trying a few other lines in the fading light of sunset, we called it a day and hiked out in twilight. All in all vantage is a cool place for cracks and moderate sport, but this place will definitely be cookin' in a few weeks. I learned that I'm definitely in bouldering shape and need to kick the endurance up a notch but that can wait till after Bishop. It's looking like Leavenworth again this weekend an I'm glad to get back on the textured granite boulders...

Feburary Fun-Snowy Leavenworth

2010-02-22T09:44:00.000-08:00

The weather around Olympia has been extraordinarily beautiful and dry for the past couple days. Sitting in class all I was focusing on, besides how much homework I have to do, is how dry is Leavenworth. Earlier we experimented with winter L-town bouldering and came up short handed with snow free walls, bu iced over holds. This time was, well, the exact opposite. The walls were dry and snow free except for a few. Derek, Kyle, Jeremy and I all piled into a Subie and headed over highway 2, sadly passing gold bar, on our way to the boulders. Our first stop was Forestland where we all warmed up. After messing around on One Summer Low, a nasty Domish crimp thingy, I managed to send it. Feeling good about my crimp strength I headed around the corner and began sessioning Back Door Ass Attack(V7). I fell off the starting move a couple times then derek mentioned the hip beta, basically bring it above your hands (yeah it was painful). But for the life of me I couldn't bump my left hand to the crimp. so I said screw it I'm doing this my way. I threw my heel up, reached to the first crappy left hand sloper on the bottom of the rail, shot my right hand out right to an undercling pinch in the crack, and then delicately hucked my right again to the lip, finally to the 'easy' part. The top out was a little sub par with my left heel slowly coming off but none the less still sent! Meanwhile Derek managed a send of One Summer(V5), and Jeremy came excitingly close to one summer low(V6). Also, Derek managed to get the subie stuck in the snowy parking lot and after 15 minutes of pushing we moved on.
Next stop was the Sword boulders until the road ended abruptly at Bridge Creek, so we headed back down to Mad Meadows were we ran into the Allwine Brothers and Kjerstie. Then we headed over to Pimpsqueak(V9) where I managed a flash, luckily caught on film, and was pleased to have done this scary line first go to not have to worry about the iffy landing anymore! After messing around on the hard lines we migrated over to the Pretty Boulders which was a killer hike (Little Si is going to suck, my legs already hurt...). Derek, Kyle and Jermey got to work on Pretty Women(V5) and Pretty Girl(V3). Jeremy had the send of the day jumping the last bit of Pretty Girl and sing over Kyle's head but somehow managing to cling on for the send. Also with some high steppin' he sent Pretty Women! Then after suicing out the tricky foot beta both Derek and Kyle fired off Pretty Girl. By this time we were all feeling beat so I decided to try Batman(V8) to no avail. Guess I've got to be fresh for this one. For one last punishment we headed to the Answer man boulder and tried a stupid V5 and then headed over the pass and on home.
It was an awesome weekend besides a scheduling error for a ghost birthday party at worked that ruined Saturdays Plans, but slacklining almost made up for it(10ish steps and a turn around!). I can't wait for new problems at Bishop and to start projecting the harder lines this spring in Leavenworth. I Just need some more enduro and sunshine...

(Vid coming soon-jimmy)

January Updates

2010-01-20T10:02:00.000-08:00

ABS Regionals for the climbing team went pretty darn well this past weekend, of the 11 kids on the team who went, 7 made it to finals! Some highlights are, Victoria 1, Lisa 2, Eric 3 and Ian 4. Then the following day Lisa, Jimmy, Ryan and I headed over to the new Vertical Club/World bouldering gym in Tacoma which is, ah, SICK! The place has walls that stop around 20 feet if you go to the very top. They have 99% new holds, ranging from So Ill to Rockcandy. The holds were so new that you would slip off of them (which made for some entertaining falls by the way). I was feeling good and managed to send everything I tried with a few exceptions. My modified training regiment for Bishop is working. Oh, and I'm heading south for spring break to go to Bishop for(as of now) approximately 12 days of climbing with a bunch of climbers from SPSCC, mainly Jimmy and Ryan. They did really well at VCT. They just need some bomber calluses and some stamina, but 12 days we figure 2 days per area, Happies, Buttermilks, Druids and a little Owen River Gorge thrown in. My only (hopefull) goal is to send a V10 and 5.13a this trip, which I think is in my realm. Other than that I want to just send as many classics as possible and help scout out problems for Jimmy and Ryan and the others. It should a fun/painful 12 days. Till then, see ya crankin' in the gym...

Maybe a 2010 tick list soon but my main goal is to push myself to my absolute limits and be both #1 in routes and boulders on 8a for Olympia, so Dom, Look out! -jimmy

Winter Bouldering

2010-01-01T20:16:00.000-08:00

It is nearing the end of Christmas Break and the 2009 season has come to a close. Last weekend Nicholas, Lisa and I headed over the Cascades to try to do some bouldering in Leavenworth. The boulders were, well, iced over but a few lines on the footless traverse boulder were dry at Swiftwater. All in all it was a fun day and I didn't manage the send of Bangalador Torpeedo. I needed one more V8 to beat my bouldering score form 2008. I was close (off by a few points!). Leavenworth is a prety cool town in winter and would probally be funner with a sledinstead of a pad. The video below is some uneditted footage from the trip. See ya in Leavenworth in three months (Hopefully this training regement thingy will help ;)

Study Break

2009-12-08T10:55:00.001-08:00

There's nothing better than sending a mini proj. during a study break between finals. As rare as it it is, I was able to go bouldering in DECEMBER in Olympia. I braved the cold(handwarmers in bag) and made my way out to skookumchuck. The hillbilly boulders were dry so I grabbed the pad and got to work on the last hard line on the boulder. It starts with a pistol grip for the right and you go to a slopey crimp for the left. Then you get a heel on the pistol grip, move your right hand to an undercling then shoot out with the left hand to a micro crimp. From here there are a few strenuous crimp moves to a mantel in a little scoop, top out and pump fist! It was good to be able to climb outside so late in the year. I also checked out another cliff band that yielded a few good crimpy boulder problems. I'm heading out there today for a little scrubbing and(hopefully) sending! So grab your brushes and get scrubin...(theres plenty of moss/dirt/choss/shrubs for everyone) -jimmy The proj is (Kill the Hippie V7ish SDS)

SBC 2009

2009-11-27T12:34:00.000-08:00

The past Saturday was the Seattle Bouldering Challenge. It is THE biggest comp on the west coast and saw over 200 competitors again this year. Both Lisa and I competed in open and we were able to bring up 6, yes 6, other climbers from the climbing team. The problems were really well set. I ended up 17th out of 29 in open and Lisa qualified 6th and finished 5th. There were a lot of good climbers and the competition was tough. My Excuses: not training enough, no steep training walls, anything else I can blame... ;) Alex did an amazing job this year qualifying 5th and would've finished in top ten execpt for a crazy final prob. 1. Lisa did an awesome job as well placing higher than qualifying for the first time! Climbing team did well. Colin got third in beginner and Quinn got 8th out of 42 in Intermediate! If possible I would like to come back to this one again. Evidently this was my 7th time climbing at this comp. Finals were, well AMAZING, to watch. Russ, Eric, Colin and I all had front row seats. Watch the vid to get a taste of what you missed...

SSPD III Vid!

2009-10-25T18:10:00.001-07:00

Youtube didn't like the soundtrack so here's the video. It's the ipod version so quality is a little sub-par...

SSPD from Jimmy C. on Vimeo.

Results from SSPD III

2009-10-19T10:12:00.000-07:00

The results are here...
Youth 12U MALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Billy Beggs 920 980 800 880 820 3 4394
2 Zak Surma 920 860 780 900 880 2 4336
3 Nathaniel Surma 680 700 800 780 1320 4 4272
4 Patrick Flannery 800 660 880 700 680 10 3700
5 Kawika Mau 660 700 680 540 580 2 3156
6 jacob tramel 460 680 660 700 440 5 2930
7 Kevin Flannery 460 480 400 380 680 1 2398
8 nathan freeman 280 380 680 420 400 6 2148
9 noah freeman 180 220 260 280 200 6 1128
10 Casey Ryan 200 220 180 260 280 6 1128

Youth 12U FEMALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 victoria clarke 880 920 860 800 780 2 4236
2 mariah mcdowel 220 180 200 240 260 0 1100

BEG. MALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Lorenzo Manuel 800 940 920 720 700 4 4072
2 Ketl Rodanski 700 680 880 640 660 3 3554
3 Joel Foreman 380 440 660 480 460 4 2412

BEG. FEMALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Taylor Feldman 200 320 220 240 400 3 1374
2 jessica ditto 200 180 140 160 260 0 940

Int. MALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Chris Kotke 1000 1120 1040 1020 940 5 5110
2 Josh McDowell 1000 920 1020 1120 900 2 4956
3 Quinn Mau 1120 1000 920 900 940 4880
4 Colin Evans 1120 1000 920 900 940 8 4864
5 Alistair Rockstad 880 920 1000 1120 940 2 4856
6 Reece Prehm 1000 1040 900 920 880 2 4736
7 Ryan Beaty 880 900 1120 920 840 8 4644
8 Kyle Tran 1000 940 920 900 880 5 4630
9 Keenan Waeschle 1120 800 900 920 880 3 4614
10 James Wheeler 1000 900 940 860 920 8 4604
11 Micheal surma 880 820 840 900 920 8 4344
12 Kaleb Zerger 780 920 1000 800 840 2 4336
13 Ian Robinson 780 700 1000 880 860 2 4216
14 Joshua Sears 720 860 880 760 920 3 4134
15 Jacob Tafejian 700 920 900 780 680 0 3980
16 Casey Durauleau 700 820 800 840 680 14 3812
17 Kitt Mullikin 680 880 760 700 800 4 3812
18 Von auguston 860 920 660 700 540 8 3664
19 Jack Groome 660 800 780 700 680 2 3616
20 Matthew Wei 680 580 760 800 720 8 3524
21 Mark Dorner 400 540 700 880 660 7 3166
22 Casey molenaar 440 540 380 680 660 2 2696
23 Tyler buntain 260 400 660 460 540 4 2312

INT. FEMALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Victoria Alexander 760 800 780 880 920 8 4132
2 Erica Warren 700 880 920 780 720 0 4000
3 amaya kent 700 920 780 720 880 3 3994
4 Carrie Tomlinson 680 900 920 720 700 1 3918
5 Amanda Beaty 660 700 680 920 820 5 3770
6 Sara Roberts 680 580 700 660 800 3 3414
7 leah freman 110 700 680 640 580 2 2706

ADV. MALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Derik Renfroe 1020 1000 1120 1040 1280 5 5450
2 Kyle Strawn 1140 1020 1120 1040 1080 4 5392
3 Eric Evans
4 Whitey 920 1000 1120 1020 1040 2 5096
5 Soren Bliss-miller 940 920 1120 1000 1040 2 5016
6 Thomas Barham 660 780 460 480 500 1 2878

ADV. FEMALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Laura Hurson 920 1000 980 1120 1020 6 5028

Open. MALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Sam Wolff 1300 1280 1220 1240 1260 16 6268
2 Zan Bode 1200 1300 1280 1220 1240 9 6222
3 Alex Fritz 1200 1300 1280 1220 1240 10 6220
4 Jake Shannon 1280 1140 1160 1240 1200 8 6004
5 Adam Claessens 1180 1120 1280 1100 1200 2 5876
6 Dom Kehoe 1100 1180 1120 1140 1200 1 5738
7 Micah Humphrey 1180 1120 1140 1100 1200 2 5736
8 Dave Gates 960 1120 940 1000 920 2 4936

Open. FEMALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 audrey 780 0 0 0 0 0 780

Masters. FEMALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Carrey Flannery 460 480 660 540 320 0 2460

masters. MALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Dave Thompson 840 780 880 820 920 3 4234
2 Sean Flannery 580 660 880 700 680 7 3486
3 Steve Lerch 700 660 680 580 560 0 3180
4 Ron Lavigne 540 700 660 680 580 3 3154
5 Dave Molenaar 440 540 500 520 700 0 2700

South Sound Pull Down III

2009-10-17T19:55:00.000-07:00

Cool...That's my feeling post comp. I've spent 30 of the past 72 hours in preparation for the Third Annual South Sound Pull Down. We had a good turn out this year, somewhere around 70 competitors. The local turn out was amazing, especially with the masters! Plus we had a handful of hard pullers from Portland and Seattle, (thanks guys, it made for an exciting day!). And, like every year, every single competitor left the comp with a prize in hand! Sponsors rock!
The little gym is finally growing up. It's eyeopening to see how much the gym has changed since the first days it was open, back when I was a youngin' with no footwork. With different ideas flowing in and out of the gym, it has now evolved a more respectable reputation. This was the first year I felt comfortable enough to send out fliers to all the other gyms. The turnout from other gyms was less than expected(due to Stone Gardens last minute Pump a thon comp on the same day...) but still a start. With winter '09 approaching expect more awesome sessions like the one at the comp. A positive vibe and some competition can lead to some pretty amazing sends, and surprise winners!
Another little detail is now that I'm able to set whatever it has been a blast setting for you guys and I enjoy continuing it. When the rock gym opened, I was 'before my time' sort of speak, and wasn't allowed to set hard routes and had issues with, a, supervisors... But the Warehouse is a friendly climbing community that continues to grow. I've been out climbing with more new people this year than ever before. Thanks y'all for coming down and making all the work of setting worth it! See ya 20 '10 .

Results posted soon, vid coming soon.

New vid!

2009-10-08T08:48:00.001-07:00

It's now up...

2 Day Boulder Trip

2009-10-07T10:04:00.000-07:00

It's starting to sound like a broken record, Leavenworth, Leavenworth, Leav... Last weekend Meg, Jeremy, and I headed east for a two day boulder fest. We met up with Kyle and Derick who arrived earlier. First stop was Mad Meadows where we ambled around looking for somethin' to warm up on. After a while(More coffee for Meg and Jeremy) we warmed up by the Peephole and worked our way over to Harry Spotter. Meg and Jeremy got to work and pretty soon all three of us topped it out! After the warm up we headed to Twisted tree where I managed the send of both Twister(V7) and Scrambled Eggs(V8). After messing around we headed up to JY and I gave Mad Max a couple of burns, but I got shut down cold on the very last move!
After a surprising warm night(around 45 instead of the predicted 33!) we headed over to the Icehouse and played on the moderates with Jeremy snatching another V5. The next destination was Mountain Home Road. None of us have ever been up there before and the view was unbelievable! I would absolutely put my house above the Star Wars boulder. After eating lunch a top of the boulder, Jeremy and I got to work climbing the steeper side. After cleaning up all the easier lines we migrated down to the cattleguard arete(V8) which was a little easier than how Micah descirbed it. After basking in the warm sun, we called it quits early and made it back to Oly in time for dinner. One of my goals was to actually film and I succeeded! A 5 min. vid will be posted shortly with sends from Jeremy, Meg and myself. Some climbs featured are Harry Spotter, Emperor's Lightning, Darth Maul, Little Bear and a couple others.
It took so long for the update because at school, climbing on the weekends means 12 hour days of School/Work. It SUCKS! but the benefits will be nice. Also, sign up for the WRG COMP! It is Oct. 17th. Sign up NOW. LOTS of good prizes. I hear there are some free shoes, free clothes and free gift cards!
-jimmy

The Carnival Boulders

2009-09-28T12:15:00.000-07:00

Lisa on Giant Man(V4)
A Rubber Boa? on the way to the Beach-Forrest. Cool.

Sunday was a family day trip to the sunny slopes of Leavenworth. After a late start, I drove the three hours to Leavenworth! I wanted to check out the Carnival Boulders, an area in Icicle Canyon that I had yet to visit. I really enjoyed there(Except for taking a suicidal trail up, I was too far up canyon) After finding the correct trail, Lisa and I started ticking off the classic warm ups. She managed a flash of Giant Man(V4), and recomended a down grade. I though it was a little soft but still hard for guys with less grace... After a struggle with the Rib(V4), Lisa and I ditched the sunny slopes of Icicle to hit the shaded side of Tumwater Canyon. (Lisa had an interesting endeavor of a V1 mantel, chalkless and shoeless, the granite also happened to be in full sunlight and it took her some effort to not fall off) On the way out we ran into a tired Derrik and Kyle so we decided to go to the Beach-Forrest for some nicer temps. They rested in the cool water as Lisa and I got to work on Goiceachea, V9. At first, I thought I couldn't do the start. I pulled/nothing on the start. Lisa, meanwhile cruised to the big lunge and got decently close. After stealing her foot beta for the start, I managed the route with only one dab. 20 minutes later, I repeated sans dab and was glad to have sent this cool line(The top out was ugly though) The first move is a lunge to an incut crimp on an overhung, move the feet up, then cross just above to another incut crimp, move the left to a slopey crimp, right foot up to start rail and huck with everything to a big crimp on the lip. Lisa could do everything perfect except hit the crimp on the huck, she touched it but couldn't snag it! It was a short trip but fun, Lisa and I both sent the Terrible(V7), which is a kinda cool problem. I'm pretty happy now with my bouldering and I feel ready to push my limits on some of the harder test pieces... -jimmy

Finally...

2009-09-21T12:19:00.000-07:00

Whoo0-hoo. I finally managed to get out to Leavenworth and climb! Sort of. The car was packed with Alexe, photo dude friend of Lisa, Russ climbing team superstar, and of course me. This was Russ's first outdoor climbing trip so we rolled into the forestland parking lot. To my surprise, only one other group was there. We warmed up on Breadline (V0) (the start broke a little) then Lisa set to work on One Summer Crouch (V6) which she eventually sent. I surprised myself with a first go repeat of the shield (V7). After messing around, we ventured to upper forestland so Lisa could work Kobe Tai (V8). Meanwhile, Russ and I headed out to do some easier stuff. We made our way over to Bad Moon Rising (V2), a slab, which took him only three tries to complete. First try he fell off the start, second try fell off around ten feet and scidded down(scarrry), third try sent so easily it made me jealous. He frikin cruised right up it! I managed the flash but with some hesitation (Sadly, I didn't get to try the Hessitator V1) After doing some other porblems we finally move on to the Sword. Lisa doesn't fully understand the art of a Leavenworth day trip, she thinks that time is to be easily wasted ...
Once we arrived at the sword boulders Both Lisa and I ticked off, The Sword (V3), The Dagger (V3), and Yo, Baby (V6). Russ did another V2 flash of the Classic. I also managed a send of Cole's Corner (V8/9) via a shoulder ripping dyno. With little sunlight left, we headed over to the Cotton Pony and played on the Pony Ride(V4) and Tampax Arete(V4). It was a pretty good trip but the sun is still blkazin' hot, fall is just around the corner an' I'm dying to turn it... -jimmy

Here are some pics from Yelm...
A crag, route quallity unkown
The Balla Boulder, potential traverse through steep part.

More Boulders

2009-09-15T18:49:00.000-07:00

Wow, Yelm is turning out to be a hot spot for a bunch of so so boulders. Today, I wanted to go back down to last place off of the paved road, but the gate was open so it was a no go. There was one other access gate owned by Warehouser closer to the main highway. so after riding around on different trails for an hour, I found two pretty cool/solid boulders with a dozen or so easy problems. It probably has about a 25min. bike approach on flat gravel and maybe a 30min(probally less) walk on ATV trails. Brush will come this winter once huntin' season is over. The rock isn't conglomerate which is nice. just a quick update... -jimmy

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More Climbing in Olympia!

2009-09-14T13:38:00.000-07:00

Since all my rides for a Leavenworth trip fell apart, I decided to stay local and check out a hunch I had 'bout some local climbing. Boy, was I rewarded. Awhile back I checked goolge Earth for some steep looking walls and found some near Yelm, on Vail Loop Road. I tried to check this place out earlier, but the road online is actually a gated Warehouser road. The second time the road was closed due to high fire danger. This time, all was good. I saw two potential crags(Rock quality unknown) but what I was huntin' fer were BOULDERS. The first one I found was a weird basketball shaped boulder, which is conglomerate similar to the near by Fossil Rock. A little father away there were 6 or so more in a little valley. The quality is iffy but it IS climbable. I'll be back with some pictures and a brush. The approach is a short 20min. bike ride on a PAVED road! There is rock near Oly, but consider it adventure bouldering... -jimmy

Click the link for a view from google earth of the boulder

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RAIN! In Leavenworth

2009-09-07T13:14:00.000-07:00

30% chance my but! What was going to be a multi day trip with a couple car loads ended up being a fun day trip and one car. I went with some realitively new climbers who happen to be going to SPSCC too. Ryan, his sister Amanda, and Jimmy and I headed over the pass in rain and rolled into a cloud/Leavenworth. This has never happened to me before. We optimistaclly set up camp and headed over to the Swifterwater cave where a group from the Circuit Bouldering gym in Portland were huddle. We joined them for a bit and Ben was there(I met him in Squamish). I felt pretty strong in the cave, flashing the right route and getteing the middle left line in a couple goes(No top outs, it was raining). After debating what to do, we ventured into the tourist trap and walked around. We stopped in a cheese store and had some really good sweet/nutty cheese, so we bought a 1/4 pound and some pastries and headed to camp for dinner. After dinner in the rain we headed across the road to The Lefty(V7). The thing was hard and trick, but dry(though drips seemed to hunt down Jimmy). We made up a couple of lines. After messing around we called it quits, packed up and headed home. It was a harsh intro to outdoor climbing for Amanda, but next time it will be dryer, I promise!
On Sunday, Lisa, Eric Givins and I sped on up to Stone Gardens to test our nettle inside of the storm. I surprised myself flashing most V6's but getting shut down cold on V7's and up. It was good training to get on non-Jimmy routes, and not know the sequence. Hopefully next weekend is dry, so I can get on some nice granite. On side a note, I aquired the Mamzama Guide book and the place looks really fun, future trips next year... -jimmy

Bouldering in the Olympics

2009-08-29T10:56:00.000-07:00

Oops, looks like I was on the sleeper boulder.

Olympics Bouldering

2009-08-29T09:41:00.000-07:00

The Imperial Cruiser Boulder

An undone arete, Viper anyone?

Viper like arete, with project to the right.

No spotters=3 pads

I recently purchased the Olympic Mountain Rescue guidebook to the Olympics for information about Elhwa Wall, (a cool sandstone sport crag I'm checking out on Thur.), thumbing through the book I stumbled across a page called Jefferson Lake Boulders. I was surprised to see bouldering in a book like this since very little if any mountaineers boulder. So, I decided to go and check it out. Friday I left around 10ish with three pads an my mom to film, (filming over spotting, bring lots of pads). It took only around 1.5 hours to get there. I looked around first and saw 11 or so good boulders with at least 50 or so lines possible, most need a good scrubin' though. The best part is, if you want to camp the boulders surround a free campsite!

I grabbed my pads and headed off to the Yoda boulder, it had the most chalk on it, and was pretty steep. I flashed the line and then started cleaning the left side of the wall. I found a cool dyno and sent it with only a little hesitation before the big throw. Next, I had my eye on a cool arete on the Imperial Cruiser boulder. The start went at about V5ish but the top out was dirty. There was a slopey line to the right which had one or two hints of chalk. I gave this line a couple burns and figured its around V9/10 range. I'm really psyched to come back and work it some more.

After calling it a day for bouldering, it was time to explore(I probably like exploring more than boulering). We went over to the lake and first thing that catches my eye is this block with a 45 angle and a decent slab top out. I meandered my way over and was glad to find a line on this sick face. It would start on a juggy rail and go to two juggy pockets, a crimp then the lip! Next time this sick line is going down! Bad landing so some spotters would be nice.

It was a good day out, and I am definitely coming back. These blocks are certainly worth the time and effort... -JC

32 Trad

2009-08-17T11:54:00.000-07:00

On Sunday, Eric, Andrew, Jessica and I headed over to 32 so Andrew could try out his new trad rack plus I could try some hard sport. The trad was fun and nothing got lost! I led three pure trad leads and one mixed route. I'm definitely leaning towards buying more cams because they're easier to place than nuts, but with nuts it's obvious whether if it's bomber or not(Dession time). I tried Californicator again and got to the same place and fell. I felt pretty good going into the crux, but couldn't decide what to do. I solved this problem with a heel hook(after I fell). Dom now has a pretty good lead on 8a and I don't expect him to slowdown anytime soon. It's hard to stay focused when after each Little Si session I feel a slight urge to go to Leavenworth. But, I'm in the best sport shape of my life now, and to stop would just be a waste. So Dom, keep looking over your shoulder, I'm still comin' after ya! -JC

Ozone Onsight

2009-08-14T10:48:00.000-07:00

Dom showing his amazing onsight skills at Ozone

Weak Sauce w/ Dinner

2009-08-12T11:04:00.000-07:00

Aye! Yesterday at the beginning of the session I felt like, well crap. I had no power and could not hang on! Then three Nalgenes later I realized that I didn't drink any water prior to climbing today. I climbed previously on Sunday and didn't have the H2O in me to finish depumping the arms. Needless to say, I learned my lesson and will try to drink more water daily.
Dom, Eric and I all zoomed down I-5 to get to Ozone, a cool portland crag. Dom's #1 agenda was to onsight the 5.12b he left untouched from the last trip. It was well worth the wait, he sent this line first go and it was impressive to see him suss it out with out pumping off, Good Job Dom! He is definitely the best rope gun in Oly. This was also Eric's first sport climbing trip ever. He started with a 5.10b TR flash and then led a 13 bolt 5.8. He also TR clean a 5.9 crack and got to the crux of the Humbling, 5.12a. All in all he had a pretty darn good first day of sport climbing. After doing some easier stuff I went for the flash of the 12b and managed to clip the chains sans falls. (I'm feeling pretty confident in my sport climbing now and want to try some harder onsights) Then I moved over to my project Slack Face(5.12d). It starts with the first crux of the 12b then goes straight into a crux section of 5.12c. On my last go I got to the last crux move then fell, On the plus side I found a bump that should help me send this line soon. Then Dom went for the onsight of Angle of the Dangle, a 5.12c roof crack with sport in between. I went for the flash and entered the crux with a semi ring-lock with the right hand and a sketchy hand jam for the left; I tried to dyno but my right hand didn't come out of the crack(my body dynoed but my hand stayed in place) So close yet so far... On the way down I cleaned the draws then swung out and well the fixed piece in the crack blew, and before I could do anything, I was falling on top of Eric(he was belaying me) We both ate it and were ok except for some minor cuts. Dom was laughing his head off as it must of been hilarious to have witnessed. (Read his blog for more details, I was falling so I couldn't see everything) ;)
On a side note I did my first ever real trad lead. A 5.9 and I placed my first cam ever and it didn't get stuck! At the end it was a pretty good trip and I plan on coming back to finish off Slack Face and some more of this trad stuff... -jc

Monkey with brains...

2009-08-10T12:14:00.001-07:00

A famous quote from the Dominator as he stuck the victory jug on Graven Image after overshooting on his last throw. Yesterday the Oly crew(Dom, Laura, Micah, Greg, Nicholas, and ME) all went out to Little Si and did some of this sport climbin'. Nicholas was on a one track mind set to hop on Chronic ('cause he already did the first half for Californicator). I admired his psyche and headed on up to catch him a couple times as he found his beta and clipped the chains. After two more goes he did the route with only a couple falls and no long takes! He'll definitely send this climb in the future! As for me, I wasn't feelin' the Little Si psyche but I tried Hydrophobia and got farther this time. It will go soon. Then the rest of the crew joined us and we played around on Graven Image, a short two move 5.12c. I should've flashed but decided too late to try my heel hook beta, Oh well! I've also decided to make it a new routine of mine to always do at least one new problem per trip, no matter what the grade.

UPDATES

An older update but Jared and I went to Neverland and did the 3 pitch lost Boys(5.9 5.10a 5.7) It was Jared's first multipitch and he did an excellent job. The view from the top is beautiful and there is a nice ledge to belay/look at the scenery (Yes, I use a grigri) Then we headed over to Nevermind to do some single pitch stuff and I finished off The Goblet(5.12b) finally, using the correct holds. I also found a cool short and bouldery project, Deliverance(5.13b). It was a pretty muggy day but all in all it was fun.

-Olympia Area bouldering is almost on the map now, these two boulders are 45ish min. from the WRG.

Me on the V0, Hillbilly Hiker ;)

Me on a cool V6 doing the first crux move.

The main boulder looking at the V0 on the left.

The first boulder, 7 feet Tall!

Brushes anyone

The Fuzz

2009-08-07T13:06:00.000-07:00

Nicholas on the Fuzz V7 in Squamish.

Squamish '09

2009-08-06T12:01:00.000-07:00

Wow, is all I can really say for the past six days I spent in Squamish, BC. Now, back in the States it seams all a blur and I find myself asking, 'Did it really happen?' Then I look at my scabbed up left arm, bloody leg and pink tips, yes is the answer they all point to...
Friday night, two cars departed from Oly. One with Luara, Melody, Sarah and the other had Nicholas, Dom, Erica and myself. It was a cramped ride but comfort is a necessary sacrifice for the trip. We had a mandatory tour of the waiting room at the border and a scavenger hunt to find the campsite that Laura picked out at the expensive campground due to the fact that the Squamish camping was packed. Around 1ish everyone was set for a good nights sleep with the falls in the background.
On Saturday we broke camp and headed over to the Squamish campground to see(in daylight) if any spots were open. YES! We found a site and Nicholas guarded it as we hurried to set up camp before someone nabbed it. The activity for the day was bouldering so we set off into the forest to climb some techy/heel hooky Squamish boulders. David Allwine met up with us and was a vital member of the session. We started off at this gnarly slab that Laura sent, I got close but no cigar. I saw this awesome climb called the Bulb(V8). (It starts on a jug under a roof and goes to an awesome sloper and another hard move leads to another awesome sloper. (This problem ate away at my left forearm and left a few nasty scrapes). After this we went to Murrien Park and swam across the lake which was the best way to end my first day back in Squamish.
Sunday was Laura's and Meldody's last day in Squamish. We headed over to the Smoke Bluffs to do some single pitch trad.(Which was really helpful I found out later) I led my first total trad route. a slabby 5.4 (I would have rather liked to solo then stop and put in gear) Nicholas did an Impressive onsight of a 5.10a with a scary slabby finish. Once the sun peaked over the top of the crag it was time to hit the shade and we decide to go back to the cool waters at Lake Murrien. After drip drying in the sun we shifted gears and suited up for the vertical world. Above the lake there are a couple of walls with a handfull of sport climbs apiece. We started with another, yup you guessed it, slabby 5.8(Climbs sans holds is becoming a reaccurring theme) It was O.K. Then Luara had an impressive onsight of a slightly runout 5.10a which had some awesome holds. Then Oly's finest went for the onsight of a 5.12a. Dom got close but fell at the tricky crux, he sent second go. Nicholas and I went for the flash and pulled through. In the parking lot we said our goodbyes to Luara and Meldoy as they departed for the USA.
Monday Dom and Nicholas had the goal of doing a crazy 23 pitch climb, Ultimate Everything Link Up, 5.11b.(Read dom's blog for more detials) We got up at six AM. Nicholas and Dom departed for the climb and I headed off for a solo bouldering mission. Go figure, I got lost trying to find Gibs Cave,(a cool V8 I left unfinished from last trip). Onced I found it the landing was a little worse then what I remembered so I cut my losses after a few burns and headed over to Cutting Edge(V4). (One of my goals was to try and finish off all the 5 star problems V6ish or easier). After messing up the flash I figured out the right way that led to the top and sent in three more goes. After this amazing line I migrated over to Easy in an Easy chair(V4). This is probably the best V4 in all of Squamish. After picking deciphering the perfect beta I went for the flash and found myself standing on top of this awesome classic. It was a fun little climb that packs a punch. After trying a few other problems I headed back to camp to wait for Dom and Nicholas. Sarah and Erica hiked up to the first tier of the Chieftan and did a cool 5.7 two pitch climb. We returned to the waters edge of Lake Murrien and I took a rest period while everyone else did some cool looking trad lines. Later that night we had a nice dinner and made plans for the following day. Also Tony finally arived after being led astray by his GPS. Dom aslo did a crazy onsight of a 5.12a. A first for him in Squamish. It was pretty different seeing Dom work this hard on a route. Congrats Dom!!!!!!
Tuesday was the day of the Multipitch. We had three groups. Nicholas and Erica headed up Diedre 5.8, a classic problem that also goes up the apron. Dom and Sarah, and Tony and I did Banana Peel 5.7, which is the line to the right of what Nicholas and Erica were doing. Dom and Sarah went first so hat I would know where to go. (This was my fourth multipitch ever, second trad lead ever, and longest multipitch route to boot). Go figure, the route was a slab route and the first pitch had no holds on it. You just had to walk up trusting your shoes. I took this pitch and it was a little nerve racking but when I got to the horizontal crack relief came flooding back into my veins. Tony took the second pitch which follows this horizontal rail to a cool ledge. So far we placed no pro for two short pitches. I took the third and started up a tree to reach a blank slab which I followed up to a sideways flake and i decided to put in two nuts and they were bomber. After this I headed on up for 25 feet or so to a tree(put a sling on it) and headed up to meet Sarah before she headed off to meet Dom. (Tony forgot to tie his shoes for this pitch so I took him, he tied them, then he cruised up to the belay) The fourth pitch was the crux pitch and the most exciting. I started up and slung a tree about twenty feet up. Then cruised up another twenty feet to a little ledge to fiddle in a nut that I Was 75% sure it would fail. after doing a hard move on to the face, the nut popped and headed off down the rope to meet up with the tree I slung earlier. I said 'Oh well, it is only 5.7' and headed off up a traversing slab that lead to a crack. another twenty feet later I found some gear Dom left and clipped into them looking at an 80 foot fall if i screwed up. 'well it is only 5.7 and I have a pretty good hand hold, I think my feet arn't slipping, I didn't slip on my way over here(just crimped really hard) O.K. clip' After this I headed up to do the crux moves which were crimping in a horizontal crack with crap-o-la smears. OnceIi reached the tree I slung in and wait to see Tony's face appear over the slab. Sarah mentioned something about a fall with dom, blood, looking spooked and maybe a root? (Read Dom's blog for the full Details) (I didn't get the full details until after the descent, good thing too) Tony met me at the ledge and called me crazy for running it out so far but I was confident that I was O.K. Last two pitches were 5.4 so Tony look them and we linked them together with my 70m. We did a little bit of simul climbing to reach the top. We couldn't hear each other so I just left a 10 foot loop of slack and climbed from good hold to good hold. It all worked out and I was the last from the Oly crew to finish up this route. 8 pitches in 5, not bad! The Down climb was a pretty interesting little hike and we all met up in the campsite and swapped stories of the mornings events.
Tuesday was so big it gets another paragraph. That afternoon we headed over to Checkamus Canyon to try our hands on some single pitch sport. I warmed up on a 10a and felt like crap. Then I moved over to this 'techy' 11a that I guessed I powered through and thought that it was easy. I tied the onsight of a hard 5.12a but got stopped at the crux. Then Nicholas tried this line called The Fleeing Heifer, a 5 star 5.12c classic of the crag. I got the beta from Dom and Nicholas for the flash and tied in and deciced, 'well i geuss i'll give it a go, what's the worse that could happen' After i got through the crux(surprised) I took a decent shake out on some jugs up high and got ready for the final crux, grabbed a crappy pinch, hand heel matched, slapped up to a sloper arete, and grabbed jug. 'Holy crap, I just Flashed a 5.12c' Realization sunk in as i clipped the chains and hung out for awhile. 'I guess all the SCS traning paid off' So all you kids out there, training is worth it!!!!! After this awesome climb I took a break and got ready for the climb that I orriginally wanted to do. Timber Queen, 5.12c. A STEEP line up a 30 foot boulder. Dom placed the draws and I got up to the reachy crux and flew of. (Oh well, can't ask for too much after Fleeing the Heifer) I'll return to send it as well as develope some bouldering here at this sport crag.
Wednsday we all slept in and it felt so good! Tony and Dom returned to Smoke Bluffs, Sarah and Erica went to the aquatic center to Hot Tub and shower. Nicholas and I went Bouldering. First up was Gull Skull, a V6 located next to Cutting Edge. On the flash i got to the crux but used the wrong heel for the move. Two tries later I stood on top of the boulder checking out the sound. Nicholas also sent this problem with some helpful beta from me. It was good to see some closure on his longtrem project. (5 Sessions) I thought the problem kind of easy probally cause it is more Leavenworth like then Squamish like. Nicholas had to leave for the aquatic center so i did a couple more classics then packed it up for a ride back to the States with Dom and Tony...
This was probally one of my favorite climbing trips ever. It was different then the rest with a pretty laid back attitude. I would normally perfer and big physce for the bouldering but for this trip the mood was perfect. Some highlights that I can remember...
-Dom onsighting a 5.12a and seeing him trying hard and fighting till the top-Dom and Nicholas doing 23 pitch Ultimate Link Up-Luara doing the impossable V3 slab-Me flashing Fleeing the Heifer(5.12c)-Getting scared on 5.7 multipitch-Enjoying the multipitch on the walk down once it was over-Seeing Sarah on the Mulitpitch-Erica not giving up on the top out of a boulder problem afer slipping-Nicholas busting out the Fuzz v7 and the dyno V8.(vid coming soon)

This trip is the reason why I climb and continue to do so today and till I fall for eternity...

Legends

2009-07-17T12:14:00.000-07:00

Nicholas Projecting pre-send.

SLC '09

2009-07-17T11:07:00.001-07:00

(No Caption Needed)
My proj. at Elephant Rock, City of Rocks. (Folows the far away arete from the lower shelf.)
Lisa on an amazing boulder behind Parking lot Wall, V2
Back on Bath rock Lisa flashing a 5.11c on Bath Rock, City of Rocks

This past week is now a blur since it is all over. We left last Wed and drove for two days out to Salt Lake City Utah for Sport Climbing Nationals. The setters did an amazing job keeping the routes fun all threedays. In the end i took 16th place and Lisa took 14th. Since I didn't make finals the night before the Circuit Coach and Zan(from the Circuit) and I all went for a night bouldering session up in Little Cottonwood Canyon(LCC). It was one of the best bouldering sessions I've ever had. Climbing scary high slabs in the dark and an awesome V5 arete pump-a-thon. It was a good night cut short by realizing it was 10:30 at night and one of the Cuircuit kids had speed climbing the next day. After Nationals we headed over to City of Rocks which is one of the coolest climbing places ever. Just hunks of Granite all over the plcae(a city of granite). We roped up the first day at bath rock and had fun doing granite sport climbing. This was Lisa's first time and I had done it once at Index years before. The Second day we went to Parking lot Rock where I got shut down on a 12a technofest and Lisa saved the day and got to the chains and will redpoint next time. After lunch we did some bouldering and exploring. I could easily spend two weeks here cleaning new boulder problems and finishing up the hard sport as well as hitting up the endless amount of moderate classics and three star routes. It was a good trip and now I'm back I want to do some more sport seeing that I'm in the best sport climbing shape ever!!! (Also a video of Nicholas projecting Legends before the send will be posted soon)

Granite country, City of Rocks, Idaho
Jimmy onsighting a 5.12a at Bath Rock

Sunset in Salt Lake City after Nationals
Twin Falls State Park, Idaho

Route finding at Bath Rock

Ozone

2009-07-02T19:18:00.000-07:00

Over the weekend the Oly crew went down to Ozone for a change in scenery. The crag was made of basalt and had some really cool crimps and ledges. It was fun getting on new routes and attempting to flash/onsight them. There was a couple awesome looking 12c's and was able to get to the chains on one of them and I am very exicited to get back and try the rest. Ozone is a two thumbs up crag, small but the harder lines pack a punch(a big jump from .12a to.12c) As summer is here the posts will get shorter as I am less inclined to be online instead of burning up in the sun. I brought my camera to the Quarry aand a short video will be posted of some of the climbs. The next post will be After my nationals trip to Salt lake City wiht lots(hopefully) of bouldering on the way home(YES!!)...

A Really Good Week

2009-06-20T19:56:00.000-07:00

Ahhh climbing...Climbing has its low points and its high points. This week was filled with high points. Legends, a 5.12c is the hardest bolted climb at the Teninio Quarry. It is composed of a bunch of hard bouldery moves without rest in between. I first tried this striking line two years ago and got painfully close to sending, falling two moves form the chains. Dom sent right after me snagging the second ascent. After being so close I was pissed and took a year break from this climb and came back to it this year. I tried the line a week earlier and all the moves came back and I managed to get it with one fall on TR. Then this past Wednesday, I tried it on TR and felt okay and I had a gut feeling it could go. After scrambling with Lisa(she tried her best) tossing draws up to me to put on the route(I caught most of the draws and the route was ready to be climbed). With the draws set(a special four foot sling draw to enable me to clip before the crux, looks funny but works) I pulled the rope and headed on up. I got passed the first crux okay which is a nasty move from a side pull to a crimp with feet smearing in a shallow dehidreal. Then I managed to get up to the OK sidepull jug and took a good shake before the final moves(this is where disaster struck two years ago) I pulled up to a sloper, placed the feet and hit the 3 finger jug w/o falling. YESSSSSS! I knew this chapter was over. It was such a relief to have finally finished this amazing line...
Lisa looked strong on it as well (on lead!) Both her and Nicholas will send soon.

On Friday, Dom, Micah, Nicholas and I all hopped into Micah's car and zipped up to little si with the windshield wipers a blasin'. Now most people will think we live in the loony house(No, just Washington) to be climbin' in the rain. Lucky for us, WW1 has a steep overhang and a hand full of the harder routes stay dry! Dom warmed up by checking out this crazy .13 bolted crack and Micah and Nicholas both warmed up on Rainy Day(5.12a) . Then Dom took a spin on PC7(5.12d) and slipped off the jug. I tried this amazing line and worked my way to the chains feeling pumped due to the never ending series of crimps. Dom tried it again this time using a bump to get to the chains and he SENT! He was very pleased with having completed this climb after the breakaged from last trip. Good job Dom! I sent next go with the beta and this cool, steep, over looked climb was finished. It should get more attention, the moves are rad and rare for little si, very savage stabs to crimps(like BOULDERING!). After this I gave propaganda a go, got passed the lower crux then fell at the upper one, pumped! Then the heavens released the rains and we were forced over to the dry area under Californicator(5.12d). Nicholas got the high point of us all. We all gave it a couple goes and Micah took a final lap on Abo to finish off the day. We hiked down in a downpour to find the car almost locked in(It was only 9:30!). We go some icecream and drove home, soaked, tired, sore and happy after a good day of climbing with old Friends...

Division 1 '09

2009-06-15T10:55:00.000-07:00

STEEP was the key word of the comp at Pipe Works in Sacramento CA. Divisionals for the 09 SCS were held here and it was a fun an exciteful weekend. Day one qualifiers I flashed the first problem which was a little overhanging but a delicate crimp ladder. The second problem was balancy for three clips then went up this steep roof to a head wall. I fell at the head wall just at the lip, pumped from the first route and all the jug pulling! I qualified 5th for finals. Lisa and Victoria(VW) flashed both their qualifiers and tied for first for finals. Finals were held on the following day. The male Juniors route went up a steep headwall and was peppered with crimps. I pumped out a hold below where the majority made it and placed 7th in finals and 5th overall. Scott Corry flashed every problem, 5.12a, 5.12c, 5.13c! Lisa and Victoria both flashed their final route and went into a superfinal where Victoria inched ahead by three holds! Lisa came away with the Silver and we are headed to Nationals in Salt Lake City in mid July(with LOTS of bouldering on the way home)

Little Si Besisged by Boulders!

2009-06-08T16:37:00.000-07:00

On Sunday, WW1 at Little Si was packed more than I've ever seen. Alex Fritz was there with Sam Wolfe and some other Vert. World Crew. I also finally met Bryan Burdo. He's a nice and laid back guy and gave Lisa and I some beta on Propaganda 5.12c, our current project. We warmed up on Phsyco Wussy 5.11b than I went for Pyshcosematic 5.12d and repeated clean. I debated whether or not to do the extension, but had no idea of a grade or if I could get back down! It looks cool though and I'll try it some time. Lisa almost managed the onsight Bust the Move and almost flash End of the World, both 5.12a . Dom and Laura rode up with us and Dom decides to play on the lower stuff with these cam and nut thingys!?! ;) It was a good day and I can see many more Little Si trips in my future(Lisa now thinks it's OK to climb at WW1),(Finally). Bouldering will(sadly) be put on hold until after SCS Nationals(If I make It). Divisionals are this weekend and we leave on Thursday to drive down to Sacramento.

Gold Bar

2009-05-26T09:24:00.000-07:00

Colin on the V2- Warm up. (his first outdoor climb ever!)

On Sunday, Eric and his brother Colin and I all headed up to gold Bar to try some problems on the 5 star boulder. This was Colin's first time bouldering outside so he was definitely jumping off the deep end. We started with a V2-(we didn't finish up the slopey and very mossy arete) and he easily flashed it. Then we all did the Five Star Traverse(V3) which starts under a ladder and finishes as for Sobriosity. I then managed a repeat of The 5 Star Arete(V6). Then with all the pads we turned the landing for Green Padded Ass(V6) into a gym floor and got to work. This is one of the coolest problems ever going up on worsening sloping rails to a hard move to a jug. I got up to the last committing moves a couple times and dropped/slipped off. Then I went for it, I stuck a crimp, and crossed over to the jug and after a scary adventure to the top it was Done! Both Colin and Eric got close to the last rail and are definitely gonna come back and send. Then Colin and Eric got to work trying the 5 Star Arete(V6) and got shut down on the move to the tiny crimp. I then decided to play on Ground zero(V8) and managed to get to the crux while taking 15+ foot falls (thanks for the mondo Bill). With two triples, the mondo and a double the landing was doable. It hopefully will go next time. After getting roasted off at the 5 Star we moved to Camp Serene where Eric got up to the last move on the V4 before feeling sketched after a foot pop and jumped down. All in all it was a good day. The off roaders were abound in force but didn't bother us at all. Can't wait for cooler days and to get back out there. Here's a video of me on Ground Zero.(Coming soon)

Propaganda

2009-05-09T19:18:00.000-07:00

On Saturday Lisa and I headed out to Little Si to pick out a project. I was surprised to see the main area at WW1 complete dry after the downpours thur-wed. There was a party on Reptiles so instead of trying Chronic I decide to give Propaganda(5.12c) a few goes. So far it is my favorite climb here. It has a technical start(which sucks but oh well) and then goes to some of the best steep sport climbing at WW1. Some hard moves on dead vertical side pulls to a juggy and pumpy(more pumpy than juggy) finish. Both Lisa and I were able to get up to the first crux an then up to the Second crux and then off to the chains. This awesome route should hopefully go next time!

(Rattlesnake Lake is dry to, the Snake's head boulder is dry)

Mayhem in Gotham City...

2009-05-04T09:05:00.000-07:00

Batman almost caught in Gotham City(Leavenworth). On Sat. my sister, Mom and I all headed over the rainy mountains to Leavenworth. The rock was dry when we got there so we headed up to Mad Meadows so Lisa could finish off Hanta Man V9. We warmed up on the Pocket V4 and I jerked my shoulder a little bit. (To be honest, I wasn't that phsyced to climb, my shoulders were acting up and not wanting to pull) After this we moved over to Hanta Man and Lisa spent some time remembering the beta and now has the route worked down in two parts. (I almost repeated it and felt strong on the opening moves) Next I wanted to hop on The Sail V9. I tried it a couple times with my 5.10 dragons with no success with the right heel. After getting frustrated by not even doing the first move I put on my trusty Galileo's and sent first try! Then I showed Lisa the Jib V8 and she started playing with that and I went and tried the Peephole V11? I could do the opening moves up to the reach to the undercling. It will be fun to project this and The Ram V11 over the next few trips. Lisa successfully sen the Jib after a few goes!
It started to rain slightly so we decided to drive to the end of the paved road and saw a cool boulder that could be cleaned. On the way down we stopped at Span Man V10. The thing is hard but with some different foot beta it could go. Both Lisa and I got up to the biggest span move and got somewhat close to the hold. Our next stop was Batman.
(Now my shoulder is feeling good and surprisingly the problem was completely dry) We laid down the pads and took a look at the beta. I managed to get all the way to the crazy mantle my first go and got stuck trying to reach to the jug. After getting soooo close I kept trying untill Lisa and my Mom tied me up and dragged me away. Needless to say I can't wait to get back and send it! Over all it was a good day and the trip re-amped my bouldering pysche. Hopefully I'll be back around the end of May. Next wekkend is Little Si and I want to hop on some harder stuff and get some projects lined up. School's almost half way over too! Here's some pics...
Lisa warming up on the Pocket V4

Me getting ready to wrestle with the crux on Batman V8
Lisa getting ready to dispatch the Jib V8
The walk out from Mad Meadows...

Fossil Rocks! Sort of...

2009-04-27T11:10:00.000-07:00

Chossy, Ticks, crap rock, these are only some of the rumors surrounding the Thurston County climbing area. I went for my first time this Sunday and it was, well fun! The rumors are true but not to an extreme extent. After meeting up with Duke in Tenino, we drove on out and made the cool bike ride(ok, the first part of the ride isn't too bad but then it gets steep, really steep) When we reached the top we chained up the bikes and warmed up on a 5.10b. It was balancy and took awhile to get used to. After onsighting this we moved over and tried P.O.T. a balancy 5.11b. I managed to stem and reach my way out of the crux and it was an ok climb. Wes arrived and gave it a burn and did quite well. He's climbing stronger than I remember from last year.
Then we moved over to the area classic Battle of the Bulge 5.11a. I managed another onsight and the day was feeling like it was gonna be a good one. This climb was completely solid except for one or two flakes.
Next up was Sketch Master 5.12a. I went for the onsight and got stuck 3/4 way up and took a hang. Then I clipped the chains and dispatched 2nd go. It is a very Smithy(Smith Rocks) climb with a balancy(nightmare) middle section up to a decent rest. After this there is one more balancy move and then campusing on jugs! It was a good route but the finish was a little scary cause of a bunch of decent sized rocks looking poised to go at any moment.
Then a Jared and Bryan showed up and we moved back to the main area and they did some easier stuff . I also tried New Age Technician a manufactured route trying not to use the bolted on holds. It would go probably at 5.13- but there are also drilled pockets. Oh well...
Then a Local Jim(not Yoder) showed up and started climbing. He bashed the WRG so in an attempt to flash his project I fell and sent Second Go. (Damn!) (He still is an OK guy he just has his Gyms mixed up, ;)
Over all Chosil Rock isn't that bad. A couple guidelines: 1) Bring Tick spray and use it! 2) Spread out your weight, don't dyno to a knob. 3) Stay on the chalk and it is pretty much solid. Don't stray too far and you will always knock off small stuff with your feet but most of the hands are Really Solid. There is also some bouldering potential i will explore in the upcoming months depending on school/climbing schedule! So I suggest that If you are a solid leader go and check it out. Almost guaranteed to have the place to your self on a week day too...

Quarring

2009-04-24T10:06:00.000-07:00

The time honored tradition of climbing at the Tenino sandstone quarry is upon us once again. The weather has been good so far and the future looks bright, (literally). On wed, Dave, Duke, Ed, Lisa myself and two others were there havin' a blast. I finally led Futility Bill 5.11d, after re-learning the crux beta. I am also pretty optimistic that The Riddler 5.11d will go next. Also the TR Evil Calvin 5.12b/c will be bolted. It has a V5/6 crux at the top but both Lisa and I managed it. Lisa uses a crimp/nothing and I use a sloper with a couple big bumps to a better sloper. And also my Video is coming shortly!

Tripple Eights and Two Aces

2009-04-20T11:05:00.000-07:00

Read Em' and weep. This weekend a good size crew from Oly made the journey out to Leavenworth. I left with Dom and Micah, Lisa went up with my Mom. Jeremy came up with Luke and Jena, and Erica came with and James and a dude and his girl from the gym also came with James. Whoooh, a lot of people. Our first stop was forestland where previously I left Bananas and Kobe Tai undone. We warmed up in Lower forestland and Jeremy and Luke wandered on up. After the warm up laps Micah and I were super phsyced. So we made the henious three minute journey up to the upper forest land and threw the pads down at he base of Bananas(V8). After seeing Micah's beta for Bananas I gave it a few goes and topped it out (I hate scary top outs w/ bad landings) The top out wasn't to pretty but I did what was necessary to get to the top! Then we shifted the pads over to Kobe Tai(V8) and gave it a few goes, getting close to the good jug. I was tryng it my way, going left and doing a bunch of stupid moves while Micah was doing the right way, which I then tried and sent.(I also did the hard move my way later). While we were gettin' phsyed Lisa and Dom took a mellow approach and Lisa cleaned up one summer(V5) while Dom did Cruise Control(V6) and almost did Busted(V8). Then after spending half a day at Forestland we migrated to the Lonely fish boulder where Oly history was made!
We set up the three tripples and two doubles and started throwin' ourselves at Lonely Fish(V9). Micah got on it and we were all getting close falling on the last hard move. Then Micah got his guns loaded and stuck the jug and topped 'er out. Then I managed to latch the jug and sketched my way to the top. And then for a grand Finale Lisa stepped up to the plate and sent The Lonely Fish (V9). Her hardest RP to date. Her second hardest red point was a V6 she FA earlier in the day! Her training like crazy 2 days a week+Weights 2 days a week+volleyball 3days week=hard climbs ticked OFF! Dom also came hella' close to flashing this climb but slipped off the jug and he'll clean this up next time. After we gathered some wood we had a big fire and rested our numb paws...(Bombs Away is a cool V7 no matter what Dom and Micah say, it just has a hard/uggly finish)

The second days was bright with the sun shining and flowers blooming and problems being Crushed!!(well most of them) We started for the Pretty boulders and I sent everything there minus pretty boy (but more about that later). Pretty girl(V3) was fun but not my favorite. We tried Pretty hate machine and first go I got half way through the dyno. (The route starts on a juggy undercling with crap feet. You then move to a good left hand jug and grab a crimp on the corner. Then throw up a heel, rock on the heel to a pinch, bump left to crimp smear smear and bust to the lip) A couple go's later I slipped off the finish and started to suck. Then I gave it my full extension and latched the jug and rolled over the top very pleased.
Next I went and tried pretty boy(V7) which is a dyno to a decent crimp but my raw fingers wouldn't let me grab on so it will go next time (also Dom and Micha got bored and started playing w/ sticks and........) I got really pissed because I knew I could do the problem but my fingers wouldn't crimp. Then we had an exciting drive to Swift Water for lunch and gave some final burns on Joel's Traverse(V6) which I tried 3 years a go(Pre-guideook) and this time after losing a bunch of skin I latched the finish rail and groveled over(another hard and awkward top out but at least this one had a nice landing).
All in all this was probably one of my best trips ever. Last year I started with 7,7,8,8and this year it's 8,8,8,9 so I'm feelin' a good season coming both in sport and bouldering. I'm also NOT phscyed to climb in the gym right now because the sun is out and all I/(every climber in the world) wants to do is climb in the sun with a good group of friends and enjoy nice cool mountain air and some crisp mountain boulders. But in reality you'll see me settin' more W-stupid problems at the gym but this summer I'm only working two days or so a week and climbin' and bikin' the rest. Next stop is either Leavenworth on Little Si after the Edgeworks Onsight Comp. Sorry no photos but there will be a short video soon(as you can guess, I climbed a lot this trip) For photos check out Dom's and Micah's blogs. So get out there you gym rats, buy a guide, grab some pads and I hope to see you crankin' out there this summer...

Bridge of the Gods/Comp

2009-04-12T18:42:00.000-07:00

Lisa, Eric, Zan and Nicholi and I all crammed into the tiny Camry to go bouldering on Saturday with two pads doing flips on the roof(yes, we stopped and all of us grabbed a strap and held the pads down for 1/2 hour) Once we got there, the threat of rain was postponed so we hopped on the V9. We were warmed up because we did a comp right before, so who needs to warm up! right? We all left the comp at the end of climbing so I'm pretty sure I tied for second and Lisa won. On a side note, some parent was talking about the WRG Team! (we now kick ass!, or at least some! ;)

The Bridge of the Gods is a cool bouldering area on the Washington side of the Columbia River. The rock is like sharp Smith Rock tuff in a basalt lava field. (No pics cause Lisa left the camera in the van) After trying the V9 we moved over to an awesome V7 that goes up a left leaning arete. I got half way up and couldn't move my left foot higher and fell. Eric made an impressive flash of this climb. he was pulling strong outside, just not in the gym. Good job Eric! Then Zan showed us this scary V4 and Eric went for the committing dyno a couple times and got within an inch of the victory jug. Taking some nice ten foot falls (his feet were at the ten foot mark). Zan and I found a Lowball and it was very fun. A pillar fell over long ago and made this nice three mover compression problem. After playing on this for a bit the unavoidable rain started so we crammed back into the car and strapped the pads correctly so no numb hands and headed back to Portland. I definitely want to come back here and with some brushes and the oly crew. do some explorin and boulderin'....

Tying up Loose Ends

2009-04-06T11:14:00.000-07:00

School Sucks, first day back at classes and I can only wait till summer. And this past trip to Little Si only increased the need to CLIMB on the real stuff. The original plans were for a Leavenworth day trip fell through so for a consolidation prize we headed over to Little Si. Micah, lisa, Eric Givins, and I all got ionto the forrester and scrounged for a parking spot. Once we did the gruelling and tretchorous hike/trek/nightmare up to the crag there was only one other group there. Micah warmed up on Rainy Day and, yes no one is going to believe this (the photos of truth are coming soon) Lisa Led Rainy Day 5.12a OUTSIDE. She acttually took the sharp end becaused we refused her the TR. After this millestone in Lisa'a climbing life I warmed up on Techno, 5.12c. Then put up a cool and balancy 5.11b then it was time for physco. I got up to the sidepull crux but had my feet in the wrong spots. So next go I sent and it was over. I finished the day with sa burn on Rainy Day. so a,c,d in a day, (not a-d like Nic did but he's a crazy endurance god so i'm not too worried). ;) Still can't wait to boulder though, soon, so soon! Enjoy the sun (mon-tue) and get climbin'n...

Smith III Chalk and Draws

2009-03-31T13:09:00.000-07:00

Ahh, Smith in the Sun. I was lucky enough to spend the first half of my spring break at Smith Rock State Park. We left on thur. and my last final was on wed. Jeremy swung by my house at an unprecedented 5:30 AM, (yes in the morning) to get an early start and be able to climb all day. Once we reached the campsite, we tied up Sasha (Jeremy's nice dog) and headed off to climb. I thought that my pack was light this trip and it was a fact, I left all 18 draws at home hanging from the bookcase! Luckily Jeremy had 12 from Bill, Thanks!, and Chas let us borrow his set of 10. So after we hiked down the trail we met up with everyone at Ship Wreck wall and climbed with Chas, his uncle Mark, Erica, Her two Friends, and Jeremy. We had a nice big group. I did the BEST 5.10b at Smith, Walking While Intoxicated. Hard moves with big holds and only 5.10b, and (yes Micah, it is better than Chicken McNuggets). The next day, Friday, was sunny and 60. It was awesome to climb in shorts and shirtless for most of the day. We met up with Chas and his uncle again at Morning Glory and Some random dudes got stuck on Overboard and they asked Mark who asked me if I wanted to get there draws fro them(Personally, I saw them struggling and was hoping for a free draw cuase I left mine at home) I said yes and onsighted it to the first chains and enjoyed the route quite a lot. After basking in the sun for a couple hours we found some shade in cocaine gully and I hopped on Chicken McNuggets for an ere adventure and an "Don't Blow this Clip" moment. After clipping the chains, everyone took a turn and fought through the crux to enjoy the upper section and the knobs a glory. we finished the day around a raging fire waiting for Dom, Micah, Luara and Jared to make their entrance.

Jeremy on(I Think) Cool Ranch Flavor 5.11a, Then Dom on Chain Reaction 5.12c

On Saturday with the whole crew, play time was OVER! We warmed up on Cool Ranch Flavor and Full Overboard before heading off to Chain Reaction. Dom gave the first burn and got close again. I tried it and messed up the pinch on the arete, and clipped the chains for the first time. I felt good and knew it would go. After getting the start beta from Dom I cruised up to the second bolt and made the move to the arete, and delicately hucked to the horn. First crux done, I cruised on up again to the throw to the 'monkey' bar. I left out the gaston and in desperation hucked for the jug and got it. Then the huge move finish seemed not too bad an very cautiously tip toed around the corner and clip clip sent Chain, My hardest to Date! I wasn't done so after giving White Wedding, 5.10b, a burn I was debating whether or not to hop on Heinous Cling. (By the way, Jared Nice lead of Wedding Day, scarrrry!) So After some peer pressure I got up on Heinous Cling 5.12a. At the crux there were two nasty crimps and a huge jug I was told about, so with a little run out I dynoed to the Jug and sent. (Now Climbing Team, See, Dynoing does work:)
After this and looking at the extension, next time, we went into cocaine Gully to try Crack Babies. A sick overhanging route (that Richard from Tacoma sent earlier with a broken foot). I gave it a whirl and got through the crux but i left a nice searing pump so when I reached the jugs below the finish I couldn't squeeze worth a damn and I skipped the last bolt and took a ride. (It will go soon when I have a fresh start) On Sunday we went back to northern point and did some classic 5.11s as well as a 5.12b. The twelve didn't go but I'm definitely returning for it. A cool huge lockoff to a pocket and another off of the pocket to a crimp. On Sunday, Dom, Luara, Micha and Jared had to leave and the Crew that was left was Jeremy, Erica, Luke and his girlfriend who apparently were hikers and decided to hike AROUND all of the climbing instead of actually climbing on the rock. The plus side was that I got to see the Monkey face and realized that I'm not in bad as shape as i thought, due to my biking. Monday was another gorgeous day and Jeremy and i were supposed to leave early. I did the best route that I have ever tried called Headless Horseman. It starts with a 30 foot solo of 5.6 trad up to the first bolt. Then it goes up this pillar for roughly 70 feet of vertical/slab face climbing. What I really liked is that i Could lock off the good holds and skipped the bad ones and reach to next good one. It was a fun adventure going up a face, around an arete, onto another face, then back onto the arete, then back to the original face to the chains. AWESOME. Good exposure and 10 or so feet between bolts makes this route a 5 star problem, also to get to the ground I needed all 70m of my rope. We finished the day on Heresy, Jeremy almost flashed on TR but had his heel to far away for the last move.
The Trip was a blast and smith isn't too bad anymore but still not my Fav, It's going to take forever to depump and it hurts just typing this post! So all you get in the Gym and start getting ready because Spring is only a few minutes away...
The late Sunday Crew!