Ozone

Over the weekend the Oly crew went down to Ozone for a change in scenery. The crag was made of basalt and had some really cool crimps and ledges. It was fun getting on new routes and attempting to flash/onsight them. There was a couple awesome looking 12c's and was able to get to the chains on one of them and I am very exicited to get back and try the rest. Ozone is a two thumbs up crag, small but the harder lines pack a punch(a big jump from .12a to.12c) As summer is here the posts will get shorter as I am less inclined to be online instead of burning up in the sun. I brought my camera to the Quarry aand a short video will be posted of some of the climbs. The next post will be After my nationals trip to Salt lake City wiht lots(hopefully) of bouldering on the way home(YES!!)...

A Really Good Week

Ahhh climbing...Climbing has its low points and its high points. This week was filled with high points. Legends, a 5.12c is the hardest bolted climb at the Teninio Quarry. It is composed of a bunch of hard bouldery moves without rest in between. I first tried this striking line two years ago and got painfully close to sending, falling two moves form the chains. Dom sent right after me snagging the second ascent. After being so close I was pissed and took a year break from this climb and came back to it this year. I tried the line a week earlier and all the moves came back and I managed to get it with one fall on TR. Then this past Wednesday, I tried it on TR and felt okay and I had a gut feeling it could go. After scrambling with Lisa(she tried her best) tossing draws up to me to put on the route(I caught most of the draws and the route was ready to be climbed). With the draws set(a special four foot sling draw to enable me to clip before the crux, looks funny but works) I pulled the rope and headed on up. I got passed the first crux okay which is a nasty move from a side pull to a crimp with feet smearing in a shallow dehidreal. Then I managed to get up to the OK sidepull jug and took a good shake before the final moves(this is where disaster struck two years ago) I pulled up to a sloper, placed the feet and hit the 3 finger jug w/o falling. YESSSSSS! I knew this chapter was over. It was such a relief to have finally finished this amazing line...
Lisa looked strong on it as well (on lead!) Both her and Nicholas will send soon.

On Friday, Dom, Micah, Nicholas and I all hopped into Micah's car and zipped up to little si with the windshield wipers a blasin'. Now most people will think we live in the loony house(No, just Washington) to be climbin' in the rain. Lucky for us, WW1 has a steep overhang and a hand full of the harder routes stay dry! Dom warmed up by checking out this crazy .13 bolted crack and Micah and Nicholas both warmed up on Rainy Day(5.12a) . Then Dom took a spin on PC7(5.12d) and slipped off the jug. I tried this amazing line and worked my way to the chains feeling pumped due to the never ending series of crimps. Dom tried it again this time using a bump to get to the chains and he SENT! He was very pleased with having completed this climb after the breakaged from last trip. Good job Dom! I sent next go with the beta and this cool, steep, over looked climb was finished. It should get more attention, the moves are rad and rare for little si, very savage stabs to crimps(like BOULDERING!). After this I gave propaganda a go, got passed the lower crux then fell at the upper one, pumped! Then the heavens released the rains and we were forced over to the dry area under Californicator(5.12d). Nicholas got the high point of us all. We all gave it a couple goes and Micah took a final lap on Abo to finish off the day. We hiked down in a downpour to find the car almost locked in(It was only 9:30!). We go some icecream and drove home, soaked, tired, sore and happy after a good day of climbing with old Friends...

Division 1 '09

STEEP was the key word of the comp at Pipe Works in Sacramento CA. Divisionals for the 09 SCS were held here and it was a fun an exciteful weekend. Day one qualifiers I flashed the first problem which was a little overhanging but a delicate crimp ladder. The second problem was balancy for three clips then went up this steep roof to a head wall. I fell at the head wall just at the lip, pumped from the first route and all the jug pulling! I qualified 5th for finals. Lisa and Victoria(VW) flashed both their qualifiers and tied for first for finals. Finals were held on the following day. The male Juniors route went up a steep headwall and was peppered with crimps. I pumped out a hold below where the majority made it and placed 7th in finals and 5th overall. Scott Corry flashed every problem, 5.12a, 5.12c, 5.13c! Lisa and Victoria both flashed their final route and went into a superfinal where Victoria inched ahead by three holds! Lisa came away with the Silver and we are headed to Nationals in Salt Lake City in mid July(with LOTS of bouldering on the way home)

Little Si Besisged by Boulders!

On Sunday, WW1 at Little Si was packed more than I've ever seen. Alex Fritz was there with Sam Wolfe and some other Vert. World Crew. I also finally met Bryan Burdo. He's a nice and laid back guy and gave Lisa and I some beta on Propaganda 5.12c, our current project. We warmed up on Phsyco Wussy 5.11b than I went for Pyshcosematic 5.12d and repeated clean. I debated whether or not to do the extension, but had no idea of a grade or if I could get back down! It looks cool though and I'll try it some time. Lisa almost managed the onsight Bust the Move and almost flash End of the World, both 5.12a . Dom and Laura rode up with us and Dom decides to play on the lower stuff with these cam and nut thingys!?! ;) It was a good day and I can see many more Little Si trips in my future(Lisa now thinks it's OK to climb at WW1),(Finally). Bouldering will(sadly) be put on hold until after SCS Nationals(If I make It). Divisionals are this weekend and we leave on Thursday to drive down to Sacramento.

Gold Bar

Colin on the V2- Warm up. (his first outdoor climb ever!)

On Sunday, Eric and his brother Colin and I all headed up to gold Bar to try some problems on the 5 star boulder. This was Colin's first time bouldering outside so he was definitely jumping off the deep end. We started with a V2-(we didn't finish up the slopey and very mossy arete) and he easily flashed it. Then we all did the Five Star Traverse(V3) which starts under a ladder and finishes as for Sobriosity. I then managed a repeat of The 5 Star Arete(V6). Then with all the pads we turned the landing for Green Padded Ass(V6) into a gym floor and got to work. This is one of the coolest problems ever going up on worsening sloping rails to a hard move to a jug. I got up to the last committing moves a couple times and dropped/slipped off. Then I went for it, I stuck a crimp, and crossed over to the jug and after a scary adventure to the top it was Done! Both Colin and Eric got close to the last rail and are definitely gonna come back and send. Then Colin and Eric got to work trying the 5 Star Arete(V6) and got shut down on the move to the tiny crimp. I then decided to play on Ground zero(V8) and managed to get to the crux while taking 15+ foot falls (thanks for the mondo Bill). With two triples, the mondo and a double the landing was doable. It hopefully will go next time. After getting roasted off at the 5 Star we moved to Camp Serene where Eric got up to the last move on the V4 before feeling sketched after a foot pop and jumped down. All in all it was a good day. The off roaders were abound in force but didn't bother us at all. Can't wait for cooler days and to get back out there. Here's a video of me on Ground Zero.(Coming soon)

Propaganda

On Saturday Lisa and I headed out to Little Si to pick out a project. I was surprised to see the main area at WW1 complete dry after the downpours thur-wed. There was a party on Reptiles so instead of trying Chronic I decide to give Propaganda(5.12c) a few goes. So far it is my favorite climb here. It has a technical start(which sucks but oh well) and then goes to some of the best steep sport climbing at WW1. Some hard moves on dead vertical side pulls to a juggy and pumpy(more pumpy than juggy) finish. Both Lisa and I were able to get up to the first crux an then up to the Second crux and then off to the chains. This awesome route should hopefully go next time!

(Rattlesnake Lake is dry to, the Snake's head boulder is dry)

Mayhem in Gotham City...

Batman almost caught in Gotham City(Leavenworth). On Sat. my sister, Mom and I all headed over the rainy mountains to Leavenworth. The rock was dry when we got there so we headed up to Mad Meadows so Lisa could finish off Hanta Man V9. We warmed up on the Pocket V4 and I jerked my shoulder a little bit. (To be honest, I wasn't that phsyced to climb, my shoulders were acting up and not wanting to pull) After this we moved over to Hanta Man and Lisa spent some time remembering the beta and now has the route worked down in two parts. (I almost repeated it and felt strong on the opening moves) Next I wanted to hop on The Sail V9. I tried it a couple times with my 5.10 dragons with no success with the right heel. After getting frustrated by not even doing the first move I put on my trusty Galileo's and sent first try! Then I showed Lisa the Jib V8 and she started playing with that and I went and tried the Peephole V11? I could do the opening moves up to the reach to the undercling. It will be fun to project this and The Ram V11 over the next few trips. Lisa successfully sen the Jib after a few goes!
It started to rain slightly so we decided to drive to the end of the paved road and saw a cool boulder that could be cleaned. On the way down we stopped at Span Man V10. The thing is hard but with some different foot beta it could go. Both Lisa and I got up to the biggest span move and got somewhat close to the hold. Our next stop was Batman.
(Now my shoulder is feeling good and surprisingly the problem was completely dry) We laid down the pads and took a look at the beta. I managed to get all the way to the crazy mantle my first go and got stuck trying to reach to the jug. After getting soooo close I kept trying untill Lisa and my Mom tied me up and dragged me away. Needless to say I can't wait to get back and send it! Over all it was a good day and the trip re-amped my bouldering pysche. Hopefully I'll be back around the end of May. Next wekkend is Little Si and I want to hop on some harder stuff and get some projects lined up. School's almost half way over too! Here's some pics...
Lisa warming up on the Pocket V4

Me getting ready to wrestle with the crux on Batman V8
Lisa getting ready to dispatch the Jib V8
The walk out from Mad Meadows...