Rain City Send-fest

If you've been climbing long enough you will stumble upon certain people with unbelievable finger/contact strength. Those who can hang on to the smallest of holds and fall solely due to technical errors. Saturday, I was in a car with two prime examples of this phenomenon. Andrew Hou and Kevin. Saturday was the annual UW Rain City Send, a college only comp. It was broken up into two sessions and Andrew and I were in the first. I didn't know what to expect since the comp was set by college setters and I was basing my perception off of Evergreen(no disrespect Micah) so I wasn't prepared for the awesome routes! I only cheated on two of them, doing it with Jimmy Beta. I spent the good part of the Red Point qualifiers sending the hardest problems except for the one, 890(hardest), which probably could go down in a couple days. Meanwhile Andrew was busy crushing all the moderates, thin techy problems on slightly overhanging walls. Next up was Kevin who has only been climbing for two years and this was his first comp. I first met him in the gym when he was crushing my V5s and V6s! So after a little persuasion he decided to help represent SPSCC. He did great for his first comp, getting close on a lot of V7s and running out of time to complete a fourth problem(I placed 2nd to dead last my first comp!).
So when the dust settled I came out on top and was set to go first in finals. The first problem startted with low hands, a high foot, then a super cross-over behind the head. I finally managed the first move on my 2nd go and then got stumped on the third and fourth moves not making it to the bonus hold! ZERO points! I was like 'f***, i just lost the comp in 5 f****n' mins'. (So, finals were Euro style where halfway through the route, there will be a 'bonus' hold worth 1 point and a finish hold worth 2 points) Next up were Brian froom central and Jake from a community college and both managed to get to the bonus hold. Now for final prob#2, I reset mentally and gave it a good go. The problem was my style and after a brutal one arm lock off dyno to an overhanging pinch, iron cross a 5 foot span, and then duke it out heelhooking slopers. Well I came within 2 holds of the finish. OK. now I felt like I stood a chance. 1o antagonizing minutes later no one else stuck the dyno to the pinch. O.K, so now we each have touched one bonus hold, but the second one was worth more! Win! All in all an awesome small comp with just some minor glitches in the final. (final routes should get harder as you go to eliminate people and make for a better show, not ridiculous hard starts). This comp and Darth Vader have re-amped my psych for bouldering so I have no clue as to whether it'll be little si or Leavenworth for future trips. Either way its going to be a fun packed summer with a road trip in the works. Mostly vacation with a little Yosemite hopefully. One last shout out to Community Colleges!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1st and 3rd in open and ex-community college 1st in Intermediate!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

See ya on the rocks...

Return to Leavenworth

On Sunday, Lisa and I headed back out to leavenworth for another day trip. First stop was Egg Rock, Lisa hasn't been there before. After a short warm up we both gave Jerry Garcia a couple burns from the 'low' start. A nasty upper gaston and lower sidepull. This line will definitely go for lisa from the proper stand if not the low. Its cool, but a Little too balancy for my taste. So I ventured up to Musashi. The first sloper was in the sun so I started projing the stand and managed to do all the move save the first 2. I felt confident that it'll go when the temps are favorable(or summer night sessions!). Next stop was Mad Meadows where Lisa got back on Hanta Man and made some good progress but she still needs to suss out the crux. While she was proj.ing I headed up to the Playground Point Crags and solod a short 5.6 crack. There are a bunch of moderates I plan on doing up here while Lisa is in the process of sending Hanta Man.
Next was a quick stop at Dirty Dude where I made some really good progress. After a few burns I managed to touch the bottom of the crimp rail! This line should go after a few good campus board sessions. All it is is one BIG move.
Finally we finished the day off at Mountain Home Road. This area has the best views out of all of Leavenworth and as mentioned before, one of my dream locations for a house. Lisa got to work on Emperors lightning but she was pretty tired after Hanta Man sess. I began working Darth Vader(v10) and was able to do the burly undercling move on my second go. Then cam the crazy duel heel hook sloper matching up to a micro crimp and, ah, mantel. Lisa caught me a good 4 times, rolling off the top, grating up my right leg, and falling on too the pads. The sloping landing makes the spotter necessary. On my final burn I managed to get to the lip, got a super close heel hook, and pushed and pulled my way over! My right heel stayed put! (don't put your leg down for top out, this is what causes the fall i found out 3 times) YES! Finally a V10 that fit my style. I think boudlering is going to be on pause and its finally time to break out my new rope and see if I can nab a 5.13a in the same year. twenty ten has been a good year bouldering for me and I'm curious to see how it plays out on the sharp end...

(No pics or footage, once again my camera spent the trip in the car...)

Bishop Media

Here are some of my favorite photos, still missing 1/3 from Amanda.

Lunch of champions, red bull and builder bar
The get carter boulder, stood on top 3 times, buttermilks
Jimmy on the cool Charlie Brown, V3, Painted Cave Boulders, Buttermilks
The hike(until we did the druids approach)/scamper to the happies.
Local Cactus.
Justin after the warm up on our last
Lunch after the Druids
Blurry but still a bad ass photo, me projecting Acid Wash, V10
On a hike to locate Solitaire, V8, Now wheres that dang boulder?

Another pic from Acid Wash, next trip...
Iron Man Traverse, duh,
The ride to the Buttermilks from camp, w/ 5 people in the Jeep!
Day 1, Ryan attempting the critic Green Wall Essential, V2, Buttermilks.
Me on a V6, above of Acid Wash, like the photo.

And I forgot, we hiked up to the druids one day which was a minor rest day for me, sending only Cayla, Arch Druid, Arch druid left, and kredluf. All awesome climbs. Also, for the hardest send of the trip Jimmy fired off thunder V3 and Cory did Arch druid minus the top out. Video online now on vimeo and below.

Bishop Spring Break 2010 from Jimmy C. on Vimeo.

Birthday in Bishop

***In the words of Dom and Micah, Put a pot of tea on the stove for this post***
Better than Amtrack?

The ride to the Buttermilks from camp w/ 6 people, day 4

Wow, finally home from the past week which is now a blur of lost skin and enegry well spent on classics in the amazingly beatiful yet astetic lines from Bishop California. The journey began with a Jeep packing for the history books. Surprisingly enough, we managed to cram everything into the Jeep and headed south Tue night at around eight. The drive felt never ending, litterally, but we had some nice stops along the way. In the Cali city of Auburn, we stopped at Awefull Annies for some amazingly large and cheap vittles. After another infinite driving session with body parts nubing, the city of bishop appeared and we set of our camp at around 5:30. Pysched, we headed to the Buttermilks main area to get a taste of what we drove 20ish hours for. Now, I didn't know what to expect, Micah and Dom whom have previously made the adventure said it is very gym like movement. So after a quick warm up I headed over to green wall and managed the flash of green wall center(V6) and Green wall essential(V2). This is when I realized that I was in for a fun and crushing trip to Bishop and the problems aren't as criptic as I imangined them to be(granted, all flashes were beta flashes, with som any people, comp strategy came in handing when giving a flash attempt). We headed back to camp which was engulfed in 20mph winds and 40mph gust. Around 1 am the saying of the trip was heard over the gusts, "John your s*** is f****** everywhere." After this, I attempt to sleep in the Jeep's passenger seat, Corry was in the back seat, his tent one of the 4 who collapsed in the night.

Day two, the survvivors crawled out from under their tents and we decided that we will spend the day at the Happies(Don't remember exactly, but close enough). The Happies were not as cool as I expected but where more suited for those who love lowballs, cough, Jimmy W, cough. We warmed up near Heavenly Path(V1), an excellent intro into high and easy slabs. Then came the lowdown for the 4 out of 3 stars climb, the Hulk(V6). I managed my way through the juggy start to a hard right hand move to a crappy undercling, setting the right toe hook, and thinking "I have to really cross over with my right hand?" I went for it and in a swinging furry of legs, through my left up, and scampered to the to top. Flash. Next Up was Morning Dove(V7) white and with similar results of Hulk, Flash. I did start to get pumped on the final rail and had to crimp the hell out of the last rail to get to the the top. Next came acid wash(V10) where after some time managed the stand start and was hitting the starting rail of the sit but couldn't put it together. Next time. After trying a few others, Jimmy, Ryan, Corry and the rest of the crew headed back to camp. BUT, we were in desperate need of sleep and with predicted 60mph winds we anted up and got a hotel. We slept for a good 11 hours and then headed for the Buttermilks, round 2.

This day we began at the far side of the Buttermilks by Checkerboard. The previous day we checked out the area and located Solitaire(V8). This is a cool burley line and after a few burns of zoning in the sweet spot, I managed the send for my first, and Olys first, Bishop V8. I Was pretty damn happy about sending this line I doubted due to the big as, well, big moves. Next we headed back to the classics side and meandered over to high plains drifter(V7). After waiting around awhile watching(stealing beta, hehe) We laid down some more pads and I pulled off the start and entered the criptic sequence, In classic Jimmy style, my feet cut on the drifter move and I campused my foot over hanging onto the last two slopers then scampered again to the top of another Bishop classic boulder coming away with the flash. Then later that day(or another, I don't remember) we headed over to the get carter boulder. After watching a few people burn on Seven Spanish Angeles(V6) I stepped on up and worked through the slopers to a dyno. Now my right hand was still wrapped and I knew I was screwed, so when in doubt, BURL. I threw to the last crimp/slope w/ my right and hucked almighty to the finish hold, flash. (I remember reading dom's blog and seeing his picture and reading ...dyno..., so I went big). But, the day was not over yet. After trying to truly flash Get Carter(V7), I missed a crucial heel and fell. Next burn, with beta, stuck the heel and sent, could've flashed but didn't care. The left line on this boulder caught my eye and and start working Twin Cracks Left (V9). After making progress through the first crux, I chalked up, felt strong on the first left hand finger lock, and ended up on top of this boulder for the third time. Not a bad day.

Day three, (There's a rest day in there somewhere). Return to the Buttermilks, This is the second to last day and we were all feeling a little sore and beat by now. We started off at the Iron man Traverse(V4). This is only 3 stars in the guide but deserves 4. Way better than the hulk. Jimmy and Ryan gave it some good burns and came close to the last move, but will definitively send next year. Both managed to do the V2 at the Grandma Peabody for a send and this trip was a good motivation to hit up the gym more and get ready for Leavenworth. After sending the traverse with feet, next burn was sans feet to complete the warm up. (Now by this time I feel a little bit like an ass hole, flashing everybody's past and current projects, but I got over it pretty quick ;) ). Next we meandered but to Fly Boy where I again, ah, flashed, the line but this one was different. I had to fight my way through the series of crimps and I remember thinking before the final throw, "f*** I'm pumped here goes nothing" then boom, I stuck the lip and litterly grovelled over the lip for the flash, pumped to hell. (*The video will show me shaking my fingers because this was the first real PAIN I felt. My tips were beginning to get raw and the pain actually penetrated my mental zone and I had to fight to ignore to stay on for the flash. But as you will see, similar to my shoulder, you can't ignore it forever) The day was not over yet, next stop was Soul Slinger which after unlocking the critic upper crux, I sent right after Evan, a guy form the bay area. This basically sapped all my energy and was the end of my trip.

The next moring we headed back to the Happies and I gave Toxic Avenger(V9) a good go but was too tired to get it. Bishop was an awesome adventure and I managed to try many classics but I have so many left too do. I'm real excited for next year where it's in the works to return, but were planning on getting some cabins! The setting is amazing and Leavenworth is very similar to Bishop and is comparable if it sees enough traffic to become as polished. Sadly, I didn't make it out to Owens River Gorge but next time, hopefully. Well the bouldering bug bit me hard and it'll be difficult to put my harness back on but I think I hear Little Si calling. By the way, this was the second climbing trip we had to change a flat tire making for two 20 hour drives.

More Pics and Video coming soon... -jimmy

Plastic Pullin'

Just a quick update, over the weekend Lisa competed at the MAC Multnomah(Portland) Athletic Club's TR Long Haul Comp. The gym is in a basketball court, and covers the entire length of the court. The walls are Entre Prises panels and a cool gym, but by far too small. Lisa ended up in first, out of 3! Afterwards we headed over to Club Sport for some enduro(60 foot walls!) After flashing their hardest boulder problem(V9 from some sort of Comp) I tried the imposing 13-, pumping out at the entrance to the crux. Next up was a 12+ and I managed the onsight to the last clip, missed a hold and fell. Two minutes later, clipped the chains for a 1 hang! This is the first real test of my sport climbing strength gained from the few weeks of training I've been doing and I'm just a little behind where I was last year pre SCS Nationals. I'm definitely in good bouldering shape so that will be my focus for the next month or two. Then it's off to chasing down Dom and nabbing the 8a #1 sport climber title he's had for too long now! (Pathetic motives, but at least it gets me on a rope)
-jimmy Let the count down begin, 1 week, 2 days, 2 tests, 10 page paper, BISHOP!

Revenage on the Rain, Leavenworth

Finally, perfect weather in Leavenworth for the Beaty Family. Last Fall I took Ryan, Amanda, and Jimmy out to Leavenworth for a hopeful two day trip, as we drove up to the city, the 30% chance of rain kept on pouring. So we attempted to climb in the Swift water cave and then called it quits, packed up and headed on home. On Ryan's previous trip to Leavenwoth, he unintentionally experienced the unrelenting heat of a Leavenworth summer sun.

But the snow capped peaks told a different story this time! The pair of siblings, Ryan and Amanda, Lisa and I, got out of the cramped Jeep and made our way to Mad Meadows for some warm up and projects. We started off a the Hueco Route, an excellent V1 with an V11 finish I'll project some day. After a rather quick warm up Ryan and Amanda began sluicing out the beta for Drug Store Cowboy(V3). Ryan, dispatched the line from the proper start and then Amanda followed from a stand. (This is her first 'real' outdoor climbing trip). I gave the peephole a few burns after relearning the sequence and feel confident it will go with some dedicated weekends of projecting. After our thorough warmup we migrated on up to the Pocket(V4) and after a mini photo shoot of Lisa headed even further up to allow Lisa to return to her duel with Hanta Man(A monkey God, Ryan told us, he learned from a Religion class project, fitting name). She made good progress on the roof V9 but still couldn't decide what to so at the crux. We'll definitely be back here for some more. Ryan and Amanda then started projecting Sponge Bob Square Pad(V3). A rather technical and burly 3. After a few good efforts on the opening moves Ryan sent The Tentacle(V3) 2nd go and Amanda followed quickly. Then after watching Lisa throw herself at Hanta Man for awhile we moved on to the Hook Creek Boulder which none of us have ever seen before.

The boulder was, well, HUGE! About the size of a small two story house. Luckily the cruxes are within 10 feet of the round. I gave Atomic Energy(V9) a couple burns, shredding my elbow on the wall, leaving a few nice gashes on myself. Then two burns later my left hand blew and raked my knuckles deep, making for even more blood. The line starts off the ground with two O.K Feet, crossing to an O.K crimp, then the fun huck out right about 4 1/2 feet to an in cut slot. It took about 8ish burns to finally hit the slot(and nothing else on the way over) and then did one more cross to a jug that leads to the high top out. This is an excellent climb minus the difficult down climb(5.6 slabbish thingy).

Our final stop was the Carnival Boulders where Ryan fired off his first V4 2nd go, Giant Man. He also made good progress on The Rib(V4). If we had another day he certainly would've sent. This trip was a good practice run for Bishop. Ryan and Amanda need to learn to trust their feet and have faith in the pads beneath them, and I learned my knees are going to KILL me. cramped for hours on end. Next weekend is a comp at the MAC in Portland, so no rock unless the weather holds and then maybe some ozone, but if not the next installment will be from BISHOP!

Vantage

Some PicsThe warm up .10a
BOULDERS!
Yeah, photo evidence of me trad climbing!
Sunshine Wall before sun set.
Josh on warm up, .10a

This was my first trip to Vantage and it was pretty fun, definitely makes me appreciate granite though. After 5 minutes of trying to find out where we were due to the fact that almost all the pillars look the same, we located a cool looking 5.8 that leads into a .10a. It was fun and after we all did this climb the next stop was some trad! We located two short trad climbs that were next to each other. Josh took the left one and then I took the right one. They were a little dirty because they were put up the day before! (The FAer walked by and told us we were the first besides him on it).
After the new climbs we headed around the corner for some old classics. The first was a striking pillar called Sunshine Buttress, 5.10a. It had an easy start to an exciting finish. Stu managed the onsight of this radical line. After we all gave it a go we moved over to the classic crack, Air Guitar 5.10a. Its a slowly widing crack starting with finger jams to off hands at the finish. Josh took the onsight but messed up 10 feet in, lowered and then fired off second go with a harrowing finish and a semi-stuck hex. I went next and managed to flash the line using more crimps than jams but felt pretty satisfied with my climbing, I'm guessing 60-70% of my pieces would've held, so I'm glad I flashed it. I would like to come back and try some of the other trad lines here too.
After the exciting traditional climbs we headed over to the Powerhouse Wall so I could try the two .12s. Well, The first one is King of the Ruins and besides getting lost at the crux, pumped out of my mind, and taking three times, it went well. (I've decided basalt which has a gazillion chalked holds is not the best place to practice onsighting) It was a cool line and I tried King Connection, another .12a, and had a better result. I managed to only one hang it! After trying a few other lines in the fading light of sunset, we called it a day and hiked out in twilight. All in all vantage is a cool place for cracks and moderate sport, but this place will definitely be cookin' in a few weeks. I learned that I'm definitely in bouldering shape and need to kick the endurance up a notch but that can wait till after Bishop. It's looking like Leavenworth again this weekend an I'm glad to get back on the textured granite boulders...