Gold Bar

Colin on the V2- Warm up. (his first outdoor climb ever!)

On Sunday, Eric and his brother Colin and I all headed up to gold Bar to try some problems on the 5 star boulder. This was Colin's first time bouldering outside so he was definitely jumping off the deep end. We started with a V2-(we didn't finish up the slopey and very mossy arete) and he easily flashed it. Then we all did the Five Star Traverse(V3) which starts under a ladder and finishes as for Sobriosity. I then managed a repeat of The 5 Star Arete(V6). Then with all the pads we turned the landing for Green Padded Ass(V6) into a gym floor and got to work. This is one of the coolest problems ever going up on worsening sloping rails to a hard move to a jug. I got up to the last committing moves a couple times and dropped/slipped off. Then I went for it, I stuck a crimp, and crossed over to the jug and after a scary adventure to the top it was Done! Both Colin and Eric got close to the last rail and are definitely gonna come back and send. Then Colin and Eric got to work trying the 5 Star Arete(V6) and got shut down on the move to the tiny crimp. I then decided to play on Ground zero(V8) and managed to get to the crux while taking 15+ foot falls (thanks for the mondo Bill). With two triples, the mondo and a double the landing was doable. It hopefully will go next time. After getting roasted off at the 5 Star we moved to Camp Serene where Eric got up to the last move on the V4 before feeling sketched after a foot pop and jumped down. All in all it was a good day. The off roaders were abound in force but didn't bother us at all. Can't wait for cooler days and to get back out there. Here's a video of me on Ground Zero.(Coming soon)

Propaganda

On Saturday Lisa and I headed out to Little Si to pick out a project. I was surprised to see the main area at WW1 complete dry after the downpours thur-wed. There was a party on Reptiles so instead of trying Chronic I decide to give Propaganda(5.12c) a few goes. So far it is my favorite climb here. It has a technical start(which sucks but oh well) and then goes to some of the best steep sport climbing at WW1. Some hard moves on dead vertical side pulls to a juggy and pumpy(more pumpy than juggy) finish. Both Lisa and I were able to get up to the first crux an then up to the Second crux and then off to the chains. This awesome route should hopefully go next time!

(Rattlesnake Lake is dry to, the Snake's head boulder is dry)

Mayhem in Gotham City...

Batman almost caught in Gotham City(Leavenworth). On Sat. my sister, Mom and I all headed over the rainy mountains to Leavenworth. The rock was dry when we got there so we headed up to Mad Meadows so Lisa could finish off Hanta Man V9. We warmed up on the Pocket V4 and I jerked my shoulder a little bit. (To be honest, I wasn't that phsyced to climb, my shoulders were acting up and not wanting to pull) After this we moved over to Hanta Man and Lisa spent some time remembering the beta and now has the route worked down in two parts. (I almost repeated it and felt strong on the opening moves) Next I wanted to hop on The Sail V9. I tried it a couple times with my 5.10 dragons with no success with the right heel. After getting frustrated by not even doing the first move I put on my trusty Galileo's and sent first try! Then I showed Lisa the Jib V8 and she started playing with that and I went and tried the Peephole V11? I could do the opening moves up to the reach to the undercling. It will be fun to project this and The Ram V11 over the next few trips. Lisa successfully sen the Jib after a few goes!
It started to rain slightly so we decided to drive to the end of the paved road and saw a cool boulder that could be cleaned. On the way down we stopped at Span Man V10. The thing is hard but with some different foot beta it could go. Both Lisa and I got up to the biggest span move and got somewhat close to the hold. Our next stop was Batman.
(Now my shoulder is feeling good and surprisingly the problem was completely dry) We laid down the pads and took a look at the beta. I managed to get all the way to the crazy mantle my first go and got stuck trying to reach to the jug. After getting soooo close I kept trying untill Lisa and my Mom tied me up and dragged me away. Needless to say I can't wait to get back and send it! Over all it was a good day and the trip re-amped my bouldering pysche. Hopefully I'll be back around the end of May. Next wekkend is Little Si and I want to hop on some harder stuff and get some projects lined up. School's almost half way over too! Here's some pics...
Lisa warming up on the Pocket V4

Me getting ready to wrestle with the crux on Batman V8
Lisa getting ready to dispatch the Jib V8
The walk out from Mad Meadows...

Fossil Rocks! Sort of...

Chossy, Ticks, crap rock, these are only some of the rumors surrounding the Thurston County climbing area. I went for my first time this Sunday and it was, well fun! The rumors are true but not to an extreme extent. After meeting up with Duke in Tenino, we drove on out and made the cool bike ride(ok, the first part of the ride isn't too bad but then it gets steep, really steep) When we reached the top we chained up the bikes and warmed up on a 5.10b. It was balancy and took awhile to get used to. After onsighting this we moved over and tried P.O.T. a balancy 5.11b. I managed to stem and reach my way out of the crux and it was an ok climb. Wes arrived and gave it a burn and did quite well. He's climbing stronger than I remember from last year.
Then we moved over to the area classic Battle of the Bulge 5.11a. I managed another onsight and the day was feeling like it was gonna be a good one. This climb was completely solid except for one or two flakes.
Next up was Sketch Master 5.12a. I went for the onsight and got stuck 3/4 way up and took a hang. Then I clipped the chains and dispatched 2nd go. It is a very Smithy(Smith Rocks) climb with a balancy(nightmare) middle section up to a decent rest. After this there is one more balancy move and then campusing on jugs! It was a good route but the finish was a little scary cause of a bunch of decent sized rocks looking poised to go at any moment.
Then a Jared and Bryan showed up and we moved back to the main area and they did some easier stuff . I also tried New Age Technician a manufactured route trying not to use the bolted on holds. It would go probably at 5.13- but there are also drilled pockets. Oh well...
Then a Local Jim(not Yoder) showed up and started climbing. He bashed the WRG so in an attempt to flash his project I fell and sent Second Go. (Damn!) (He still is an OK guy he just has his Gyms mixed up, ;)
Over all Chosil Rock isn't that bad. A couple guidelines: 1) Bring Tick spray and use it! 2) Spread out your weight, don't dyno to a knob. 3) Stay on the chalk and it is pretty much solid. Don't stray too far and you will always knock off small stuff with your feet but most of the hands are Really Solid. There is also some bouldering potential i will explore in the upcoming months depending on school/climbing schedule! So I suggest that If you are a solid leader go and check it out. Almost guaranteed to have the place to your self on a week day too...

Quarring

The time honored tradition of climbing at the Tenino sandstone quarry is upon us once again. The weather has been good so far and the future looks bright, (literally). On wed, Dave, Duke, Ed, Lisa myself and two others were there havin' a blast. I finally led Futility Bill 5.11d, after re-learning the crux beta. I am also pretty optimistic that The Riddler 5.11d will go next. Also the TR Evil Calvin 5.12b/c will be bolted. It has a V5/6 crux at the top but both Lisa and I managed it. Lisa uses a crimp/nothing and I use a sloper with a couple big bumps to a better sloper. And also my Video is coming shortly!

Tripple Eights and Two Aces

Read Em' and weep. This weekend a good size crew from Oly made the journey out to Leavenworth. I left with Dom and Micah, Lisa went up with my Mom. Jeremy came up with Luke and Jena, and Erica came with and James and a dude and his girl from the gym also came with James. Whoooh, a lot of people. Our first stop was forestland where previously I left Bananas and Kobe Tai undone. We warmed up in Lower forestland and Jeremy and Luke wandered on up. After the warm up laps Micah and I were super phsyced. So we made the henious three minute journey up to the upper forest land and threw the pads down at he base of Bananas(V8). After seeing Micah's beta for Bananas I gave it a few goes and topped it out (I hate scary top outs w/ bad landings) The top out wasn't to pretty but I did what was necessary to get to the top! Then we shifted the pads over to Kobe Tai(V8) and gave it a few goes, getting close to the good jug. I was tryng it my way, going left and doing a bunch of stupid moves while Micah was doing the right way, which I then tried and sent.(I also did the hard move my way later). While we were gettin' phsyed Lisa and Dom took a mellow approach and Lisa cleaned up one summer(V5) while Dom did Cruise Control(V6) and almost did Busted(V8). Then after spending half a day at Forestland we migrated to the Lonely fish boulder where Oly history was made!
We set up the three tripples and two doubles and started throwin' ourselves at Lonely Fish(V9). Micah got on it and we were all getting close falling on the last hard move. Then Micah got his guns loaded and stuck the jug and topped 'er out. Then I managed to latch the jug and sketched my way to the top. And then for a grand Finale Lisa stepped up to the plate and sent The Lonely Fish (V9). Her hardest RP to date. Her second hardest red point was a V6 she FA earlier in the day! Her training like crazy 2 days a week+Weights 2 days a week+volleyball 3days week=hard climbs ticked OFF! Dom also came hella' close to flashing this climb but slipped off the jug and he'll clean this up next time. After we gathered some wood we had a big fire and rested our numb paws...(Bombs Away is a cool V7 no matter what Dom and Micah say, it just has a hard/uggly finish)

The second days was bright with the sun shining and flowers blooming and problems being Crushed!!(well most of them) We started for the Pretty boulders and I sent everything there minus pretty boy (but more about that later). Pretty girl(V3) was fun but not my favorite. We tried Pretty hate machine and first go I got half way through the dyno. (The route starts on a juggy undercling with crap feet. You then move to a good left hand jug and grab a crimp on the corner. Then throw up a heel, rock on the heel to a pinch, bump left to crimp smear smear and bust to the lip) A couple go's later I slipped off the finish and started to suck. Then I gave it my full extension and latched the jug and rolled over the top very pleased.
Next I went and tried pretty boy(V7) which is a dyno to a decent crimp but my raw fingers wouldn't let me grab on so it will go next time (also Dom and Micha got bored and started playing w/ sticks and........) I got really pissed because I knew I could do the problem but my fingers wouldn't crimp. Then we had an exciting drive to Swift Water for lunch and gave some final burns on Joel's Traverse(V6) which I tried 3 years a go(Pre-guideook) and this time after losing a bunch of skin I latched the finish rail and groveled over(another hard and awkward top out but at least this one had a nice landing).
All in all this was probably one of my best trips ever. Last year I started with 7,7,8,8and this year it's 8,8,8,9 so I'm feelin' a good season coming both in sport and bouldering. I'm also NOT phscyed to climb in the gym right now because the sun is out and all I/(every climber in the world) wants to do is climb in the sun with a good group of friends and enjoy nice cool mountain air and some crisp mountain boulders. But in reality you'll see me settin' more W-stupid problems at the gym but this summer I'm only working two days or so a week and climbin' and bikin' the rest. Next stop is either Leavenworth on Little Si after the Edgeworks Onsight Comp. Sorry no photos but there will be a short video soon(as you can guess, I climbed a lot this trip) For photos check out Dom's and Micah's blogs. So get out there you gym rats, buy a guide, grab some pads and I hope to see you crankin' out there this summer...

Bridge of the Gods/Comp

Lisa, Eric, Zan and Nicholi and I all crammed into the tiny Camry to go bouldering on Saturday with two pads doing flips on the roof(yes, we stopped and all of us grabbed a strap and held the pads down for 1/2 hour) Once we got there, the threat of rain was postponed so we hopped on the V9. We were warmed up because we did a comp right before, so who needs to warm up! right? We all left the comp at the end of climbing so I'm pretty sure I tied for second and Lisa won. On a side note, some parent was talking about the WRG Team! (we now kick ass!, or at least some! ;)

The Bridge of the Gods is a cool bouldering area on the Washington side of the Columbia River. The rock is like sharp Smith Rock tuff in a basalt lava field. (No pics cause Lisa left the camera in the van) After trying the V9 we moved over to an awesome V7 that goes up a left leaning arete. I got half way up and couldn't move my left foot higher and fell. Eric made an impressive flash of this climb. he was pulling strong outside, just not in the gym. Good job Eric! Then Zan showed us this scary V4 and Eric went for the committing dyno a couple times and got within an inch of the victory jug. Taking some nice ten foot falls (his feet were at the ten foot mark). Zan and I found a Lowball and it was very fun. A pillar fell over long ago and made this nice three mover compression problem. After playing on this for a bit the unavoidable rain started so we crammed back into the car and strapped the pads correctly so no numb hands and headed back to Portland. I definitely want to come back here and with some brushes and the oly crew. do some explorin and boulderin'....