Monday, May 23, 2011

Oly Boulder

Crimpy east face
slabby west face
easy south face
slopey north face
Kevin working DL V9
as everyone knows, the best granite boulder south of gold bar is tucked away in capitol forest, a mere 1/2 from the WRG!

Saturday, May 7, 2011

Leavenworth: Cotton Pony Dyno & Stuff

The NC3 series wrapped up last weekend in whitman and what a fun series it was. I met a ton of other collegiate climbers as well as a bunch of pebble wrestlers. In the end, I took first over all in the series with my good friend Brian taking second and then the powerhouse Justin Wyse from Western squeaking into third. The comp was fun but they weren't prepared for the 'big guns' that showed up which led to ties and places being separated by falls. For open, it came down to one problem and I unlocked the sequence with on more fall than Brian. So, he finally beat me!

The previous weekend I did a solo mission out to levy and met up with Miles and Lisa. After trying a few things i ran into brian as he was trying his project, superman v10. After checking out a new area that day I also began to play around on the Ram v12 and managed to do a couple moves which surprised me and peaked my interest. On the way home I made a quick stop at Big booty bitch slap v10 and a after a few frustrating goes, unlocked the crux and sent! it made the trip worth it!

On Friday, we had a packed pilot consisting of Kevin, David, Chase and George. The first stop was mad meadows where i managed the finish of the ram. Now all i have to do is the crux! Kevin also made quick work of Hanta Mav v9 making it look easy! After the meadows we migrated our band of misfits over to forestland as david battled it out with the Coffee Cup v9. He came super close and will send soon. Next stop was was/is and derik gave was some good burns and Kevin stuck the iron cross on is. Then we made a quick detour to the Cotton Pony dyno v10 and i gave it a few burns, getting closer and closer until, i hit the lip and stayed! I was physched on getting this because in the past i thought, no way, the lip is miles away... I now can't wait to get this beast from the proper start. chase and george got footage so i'll piece it together with Miles send of pimpsqueak.

Monday, April 18, 2011

April Awesomeness


Leavenworth
The Central Comp
Miles on an unknowm 'nosejob' v8 stand
There is granite in Olympia!
Expouldering on Sunday....


Recently I've been doing the college series comps and they've been fun and have had great prizes. Shout out to Central's amazing comp with quality gym problems that kicked my ass! I qualified first and finished second behind David Ackerman. Next up was a really fun weekend at the river boulders and then Miles and I met up with Lisa in Leavenworth. Last weekend was the U of O comp and their routes were fun but still college-ish. Can't wait to see the finals video. Once agian I qualified 1st and finished 2nd, this time behind Brian Adams, way to go! Sunday was spent expouldering Summit lake in all the wrong places and tomorrow we're gonna check out the gems.(We did and found 3 ish boulders a sick 10 ft one!) Also, a sick video is on it's way from index boulders and pimpsqueak. Finally learned how to use my title program too...

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Bishop III

Pow Pow in the Sads, Miles brushing and Jared watching
A very windy Milks
My awesome photo of Lisa on the start to High Plains
Man hunting dinner, hell yeah!
The Tableland...

This past week has been a blurr, either from sand passing us by in the milks, or the rays of sun blinding us in the Sads. This was not the ideal intro to Bishop trip I had perceived for Lisa. After a quick stop at the MAC in Portlandia to round up Lisa and her bags, Kevin, Lisa and myself headed out on our journey south in the spacious Pilot. Once we arrived at 3am, we got as much sleep as possible and then headed out to the sads for a return to the Ice Caves. After some fun warm ups we headed straight to Strength in Numbers, and excellent highballish V5 I'd previously wanted to try. After a pumpy flash Kevin and Lisa got to work and both dispatched! In the caves it was back to work and Aquatic Hitchiker(V10) went down in a couple goes once I found the proper start. Later on in the day Morgan and his crew of misfits joined us in the tablelands.
Monday we headed up to the milks for what would be the last time and Kevin and Lisa got on Fly Boy Sit(V8) and both came painfully close to sending, literally, since the thing is sharp! Next up we sessioned Stained Glass(v10) and worked our way to the middle, yeah for crimpers!
Tuesday was, well, HOT! we began by making it all the way to Bishop Creek and tanning by the waters edge until Jared and Miles joined the posse.
Wednsday was I think dedicated to the Sads and I made some progress on Beefcake, trying to relearn my beta for Beefy Geko(V11). Then a miracle happened and everything fell into place and Beefy Geko went!!!!!!!! 3 days of effort on this one
Thursday was my unofficial rest day. We drive all the way out to the happy's and relize that the wind blowing our pads around is not as fun as sitting in the sun so Lisa, Miles, Jared and I all migrate over to the Happies. Lisa had a good day of projecting the Hulk(V6) and crushing while I laid on my Mamutte tripple and tanned for a couple hours. I did managed a climb for the day though, an inspiring little overhanging fridge called Highbrow(V8). After stalling at the crux I decided I couldn't cut my heel to bail so I desperately squeezed my way to the top for the flash! Scarrrry!
Friday was a simmiliar stroy in the Milks but Miles and I made some -3 star classic FA's on the back side of the womb boulder(our wind Block). Once again we bailed and headed the the Sads where I came close to sending Aqarium, the V12 top out to Aquatic Hitchiker. Lisa came close to Pow Pow but by then our tanks were on empty.
The drive back consitted of snow and took a lot longer than expected but we eventually made it back. Now it is time to train the crimp strength and soon the enduro...

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Winter Updates

The past two weekends have been filled with granite and plastic. The prior weekend, David and myself headed out to Leavenworth for a two day trip and Morgan accompanied by his brother, Jeremy and Rick came for the day as well. We started in Mad Meadows and David and Morgan sussed out their beta for Pimpsqueak (V9) and David made amazing progress linking everything to to the top out. We ran into Kyle at superman (V10) and he gave the tricky kneebar starting beta for the climb. I gave it a couple burns and managed all the moves. Next was twisted tree and Jeremy came the closest ever to sending, going to the finish lip wrong handed!
Sunday we headed back up to Mad Meadows, David sussed his beta for the top out and literally came within inches of sending! I then headed up to Superman and after a few burns sent! i'm slowly running out of quick hits and now prefer two day trips to the classic Leavenworth day trip. Bishop in 12 days and then a handful of NC3 comps then it's time to switch to ropes mode...

Pictures coming soon...

Sunday, January 30, 2011

Eastern



This weekend we went on a mini trip to Cheney Washington, home of the National Champion Eagles. The plan was to go to minnehaha but Morgan and then Kevin wanted to hit up Leavenworth so we detoured and landed in Leavenworth around noon. The road was dry but there were some nice snow banks. First stop was Barney's Rubble and that whole boulder was dry. To get there, we leapped frog/assembly lined crass pads and walked on them to maneuver the waist deep snow. Next was the cotton pony pointer V10 but it took 10 minutes to access the boulder which is 20 feet from the road. And after our I slipped of the jug once again.
Next up was the hot tub and the NC3 Eastern Comp.
The problems were a little reachy and the 4 hardest problems saw son ascents. For finals, it came down to who flashed what seeing as all of open only did 8 different problems! The finals route was sweet which was pinchy. steep, and slopey. First burn i screwed up hugely. Second burn I pulled through the crux to the last hold, crimped it and finger gave out on way to top out! All in all an OK comp, most routes needed bump holds and CHALKED up slopers! but other than that rad movement.
Up next might be gold bar than UW. My finger is currently angry at me so we'll see by the weekend. The UW comp is going to be the comp of the season with all the big guns, minus UW's(they're setting), should be present! Oh yeah, go team OLY!
Session 1, the rest of the pics are blurry, my camera hates action...

Sunday, January 23, 2011

SPSCC/Oly

Go team SPSCC! Saturday, Western Washington University held the Season Opener for the NC3 Collegiate climbing series. For SPSCC we had myself and Kevin, for Evergreen there was Morgan, Micah, Dom, Chas and Elliot. Besides a curve ball thrown in of no smearing the comp was still fun with interesting and sometimes sandbagged problems. Myself, Morgan and Karl qualified for finals, all having a connection to Olympia as well. In the end with a flash of the third problem I managed to walk away with a free pair of evolves. Check Dom's site, climb8a, for a video and more info. Everyone else did pretty well too. Up next is Eastern and hopefully some granite!