Monday was a surprisingly chilly day and only the trio(Dom, Micah, Myself) were able to make it out to WW1. (We learned 3 people suck when projecting because you get to cold before you have to climb again). After a normal warm up of pyscho-wussy I gave Chronic a burn and finally managed the 1 hang! I fell due to pumpage after the middle crux which isn't to reassuring but I figure I'll find some other stuff to try while upping the enduro. Micah gave Californicator 12d a couple good burns and figured out why he was sucking this year. On a crucial crimp need to access the 'typewriter' hold, he was grabbing the flat part instead of the incut! Now his psyche is reborn and I see a send in the future! Dom wanted to keep his title so he began sessioning Viagrophobia 12d. He gave it to solid burns but got pumped towards the top and couldn't move his feet and fell. Since I've never done this route, I tried the slightly easier version, Hydrophobia 12c, the Rainy Day 12a extension. With some encouraging beta and some taunts I powered my way to the chains of this cool, yet tricky, route. After this successful send I decided to go for the harder version up viagro and after some long rests on the route, clipped the chains as well. So now the current line up is Chronic 13b, Oval Orffice 13a(maybe), Flatliner 13c, Vanilla Ice 13a. We'll see what happens...
So now on 8a.nu, the FRIENDLY Oly competition, I have now taken over Dom's endless #1 spot on routes and unless he dedicates more of his time to hard routes(less quantity) I'll never give it back. I personally feel he slacked off this winter(training wise, the team missed ya) and I also surprised him with some quick sends this summer. I expect to see him at climbing team work outs this fall/spring...
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