Squamish: II

Getting into the Forester I was thinking; why am I leaving, I just want to stay, for the second time this year. The first time this thought occurred was when i was leaving Bishop and felt like an idiot cramming back into the jeep and heading back to the rain city of Olympia, I already miss the real dedicated climbers, the amazing blocs, the relentless routes, and the climber scene.

This weekend Micah and I made the return journey back to Squamish and, unlike last time, found a campsite! Things were looking great already! We threw up our tents and marched out to the boulders. Our first stop was the Rookie V8 and after a couple minutes of debate of where the starting hold was, I flashed my way to the top! Micah gave it a few burns but had problems getting over the scary-factor of some of the moves. Then the rain came and after a slightly drenching sprint to the car, we decided to go and check out this new area called Paradise Valley, 5 miles north of town. So we got our rain gear ready for no reason! The place was bone dry! So we replaced our jackets for pads and checkout the rock lady, a long vertical face boulder. It had some cool probs and some very technical ones too. Micah fell in love and we came back here later.

Up next was the rope day and we visited the Sport Temples sister crag, Pleasure Dome. After a some what intricate onsight of the warm up I set my sights on the classic 13a Ibiza. After a longer than expected hang dog sesh it was time to red point. coming up to the first crux i hit the hold but my fingers screamed pain! and I let go. After pulling this move I took once more to clip and then made to the top. It was hard to let this one slip away but it'll be there next year, and so will my skin. After this it was going tot be a rest day afternoon and we headed back to paradise valley where Micah did some crushing on a V8 called Storm Trooper and flashed a V7! He hit his stride on these problems. Then we moved on to a cool steep problem called the fridge V7. This became a mini epic send for me getting to the last moves and not seeing a way to the slanted jug. So relying on what trad skills I have, I finger jammed with my left hand and then crossed over with my right to the victory jug! I then took the rest of the day off.

Saturday was my project day and it was to focused around Worm World Cave Low V10. I had previously sent worm world last trip and really wanted to do the low start. So we spread out the pads and i go to work. Micah kinda rembered some of the starting beta which wasn't working for me, so i tried it my way. After sticking this move I worked the begginnig in three pieces and then went for it. I got all the way into Worm World proper but din't know what to do after hitting the crimp, I then fell in desperation. After this i hopped right back on here, found the heel hook, and sent next burn, giving every move full effort to stay on. This is a problem that I was really psyched for and glad to have sent for my first solid V10. After this Micah tried a few problems and sent The Rail Thing V7 and then we headed over to the Rookie. Micah got started on this and I began trying the new beta I figured out over night. And after a few burns I was manteling over the lip! Another V1o, soft but whatever. Two in a Day! After this we ran into Sam and Audrey from Vertical World and tried a cool V7 caled styx that Micah sent 2nd go!

The last day I was wasted and didn't get on much besides a V8 dyno and a classic V4, both I was too lazy to put my shoes on for. Micah on the other hand was crushing left and right. After sending a V4 he went on to send V4, V5 and V6! I can't wait to start hitting up Gold Bar and Leavenworth this fall inbetween homework sessions and then the Bishop trip! No footage once again because its being saved for Crunked Climbs 20-10