I guess it's only been a little over a month since I returned from my Fall trip to Joe's but it feels like at least a season, or two, has passed since then. The post is really late, I know. I've been too busy and too lazy, see-sawing between the two. Below is a nice video I made from footage from the trip. I wanted dual angles but this is what we captured...
This time the trip was composed of me, Keath and Brittany. Due to a snow storm the trip was cut into two parts with time spent in SLC in the middle and ends. The first half of the trip was fun with warmer than expected temps but a good fire was a requirement for when the sun finally dipped behind the plateaus.
 |
| Keath's friend Traughn working Lactation Station |
The trip started at a new area for me called the Dairy Boulders way up right fork. The area consists of super soft and super hard problems for the grade but really good movement. After a very poor warmup session we jumped on Stir the Pie v9/6. while falling on the big move, my pinkie was jammed into the best part of the good right hand slot and as I was falling I heard a crack. When I landed my pinkie finger hurt a bit and a there was a rushing warm feeling. Because I just drove 13 hrs the previous day, and heard a 'crack' not a 'pop', I decided to tape up and managed to send 2nd. Go! (1 month later the pinkie still hurts, but not the pully).I decided to just pop some Motrin and the problem will work it's way out when I get back. As it turned out the pinkie didn't hinder me from sending, I just hindered it form healing, priorities right? I also tried Lactation Station v10 and managed to get up to the crux and found a way but will need to come back. Classic sloper groveling!!
 |
| Brittany sending Dunkin' Donuts |
It just sorta happened that the theme of the trip, for me at least, was to check out new areas in the guide that we skipped over in Spring. This required some hiking and once we did the hike(s) up we found some more internal incentive to send, if you know what I mean. One such boulder was the Dunkin' Donuts boulder with the v10/8 namesake line. Well, the rumors of it being soft were a little too good to be true. Later online I found out we used a different sequence and the line felt v8ish we all agreed. It has a cool toe hook but other than that there was nothing special about it. Now Raiden v6, on the other side of the boulder, is an excellent line and took more tries too!
With warnings of a storm coming we broke camp and headed to SLC. We spent some time in LCC and I finally did All Thumbs v10 in two parts!
 |
| Keath contemplating his 'rest day' |
We eventually returned to our campsite and tent life for a couple more days. I managed to send a few more things but began to feel the previous 6 days of climbing. Like last trip, we climbed way to many days in a row.
 |
| A nice campsite in the SUN! |
I personally feel that a lot of the crimps on the Joe's Valley sandstone are tweaky and require some intense finger strength to pull through the mirco-ness and the irregularity of the hold. I have recently began the 4-3-2-1 training cycle and have found, through weighted deadhangs, that being able to hang onto smaller holds for longer, even microseconds, makes a huge difference. I have an upcoming trip to LA to visit some family and play on some chossy sandstone and hit up JT for round II. I know how fast time can fly but I can't wait till the end of march for another spring trip. Joe's is on the top of the list but I think a return trip to Bishop might take the top spot. Till then lots of Leavenworth weekends on some Post-Guidebook problems once the rains let up.
Until, then Happy Training, and Christmas!!
P.S. Well looks like Winter in Levy is over and I'll be posting a video of Lisa and Me climbing some stuff over Fall/Winter.
