Study Break

There's nothing better than sending a mini proj. during a study break between finals. As rare as it it is, I was able to go bouldering in DECEMBER in Olympia. I braved the cold(handwarmers in bag) and made my way out to skookumchuck. The hillbilly boulders were dry so I grabbed the pad and got to work on the last hard line on the boulder. It starts with a pistol grip for the right and you go to a slopey crimp for the left. Then you get a heel on the pistol grip, move your right hand to an undercling then shoot out with the left hand to a micro crimp. From here there are a few strenuous crimp moves to a mantel in a little scoop, top out and pump fist! It was good to be able to climb outside so late in the year. I also checked out another cliff band that yielded a few good crimpy boulder problems. I'm heading out there today for a little scrubbing and(hopefully) sending! So grab your brushes and get scrubin...(theres plenty of moss/dirt/choss/shrubs for everyone) -jimmy The proj is (Kill the Hippie V7ish SDS)

SBC 2009

The past Saturday was the Seattle Bouldering Challenge. It is THE biggest comp on the west coast and saw over 200 competitors again this year. Both Lisa and I competed in open and we were able to bring up 6, yes 6, other climbers from the climbing team. The problems were really well set. I ended up 17th out of 29 in open and Lisa qualified 6th and finished 5th. There were a lot of good climbers and the competition was tough. My Excuses: not training enough, no steep training walls, anything else I can blame... ;) Alex did an amazing job this year qualifying 5th and would've finished in top ten execpt for a crazy final prob. 1. Lisa did an awesome job as well placing higher than qualifying for the first time! Climbing team did well. Colin got third in beginner and Quinn got 8th out of 42 in Intermediate! If possible I would like to come back to this one again. Evidently this was my 7th time climbing at this comp. Finals were, well AMAZING, to watch. Russ, Eric, Colin and I all had front row seats. Watch the vid to get a taste of what you missed...

SSPD III Vid!

Youtube didn't like the soundtrack so here's the video. It's the ipod version so quality is a little sub-par...

SSPD from Jimmy C. on Vimeo.

Results from SSPD III

The results are here...
Youth 12U MALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Billy Beggs 920 980 800 880 820 3 4394
2 Zak Surma 920 860 780 900 880 2 4336
3 Nathaniel Surma 680 700 800 780 1320 4 4272
4 Patrick Flannery 800 660 880 700 680 10 3700
5 Kawika Mau 660 700 680 540 580 2 3156
6 jacob tramel 460 680 660 700 440 5 2930
7 Kevin Flannery 460 480 400 380 680 1 2398
8 nathan freeman 280 380 680 420 400 6 2148
9 noah freeman 180 220 260 280 200 6 1128
10 Casey Ryan 200 220 180 260 280 6 1128

Youth 12U FEMALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 victoria clarke 880 920 860 800 780 2 4236
2 mariah mcdowel 220 180 200 240 260 0 1100

BEG. MALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Lorenzo Manuel 800 940 920 720 700 4 4072
2 Ketl Rodanski 700 680 880 640 660 3 3554
3 Joel Foreman 380 440 660 480 460 4 2412

BEG. FEMALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Taylor Feldman 200 320 220 240 400 3 1374
2 jessica ditto 200 180 140 160 260 0 940

Int. MALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Chris Kotke 1000 1120 1040 1020 940 5 5110
2 Josh McDowell 1000 920 1020 1120 900 2 4956
3 Quinn Mau 1120 1000 920 900 940 4880
4 Colin Evans 1120 1000 920 900 940 8 4864
5 Alistair Rockstad 880 920 1000 1120 940 2 4856
6 Reece Prehm 1000 1040 900 920 880 2 4736
7 Ryan Beaty 880 900 1120 920 840 8 4644
8 Kyle Tran 1000 940 920 900 880 5 4630
9 Keenan Waeschle 1120 800 900 920 880 3 4614
10 James Wheeler 1000 900 940 860 920 8 4604
11 Micheal surma 880 820 840 900 920 8 4344
12 Kaleb Zerger 780 920 1000 800 840 2 4336
13 Ian Robinson 780 700 1000 880 860 2 4216
14 Joshua Sears 720 860 880 760 920 3 4134
15 Jacob Tafejian 700 920 900 780 680 0 3980
16 Casey Durauleau 700 820 800 840 680 14 3812
17 Kitt Mullikin 680 880 760 700 800 4 3812
18 Von auguston 860 920 660 700 540 8 3664
19 Jack Groome 660 800 780 700 680 2 3616
20 Matthew Wei 680 580 760 800 720 8 3524
21 Mark Dorner 400 540 700 880 660 7 3166
22 Casey molenaar 440 540 380 680 660 2 2696
23 Tyler buntain 260 400 660 460 540 4 2312

INT. FEMALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Victoria Alexander 760 800 780 880 920 8 4132
2 Erica Warren 700 880 920 780 720 0 4000
3 amaya kent 700 920 780 720 880 3 3994
4 Carrie Tomlinson 680 900 920 720 700 1 3918
5 Amanda Beaty 660 700 680 920 820 5 3770
6 Sara Roberts 680 580 700 660 800 3 3414
7 leah freman 110 700 680 640 580 2 2706

ADV. MALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Derik Renfroe 1020 1000 1120 1040 1280 5 5450
2 Kyle Strawn 1140 1020 1120 1040 1080 4 5392
3 Eric Evans
4 Whitey 920 1000 1120 1020 1040 2 5096
5 Soren Bliss-miller 940 920 1120 1000 1040 2 5016
6 Thomas Barham 660 780 460 480 500 1 2878

ADV. FEMALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Laura Hurson 920 1000 980 1120 1020 6 5028

Open. MALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Sam Wolff 1300 1280 1220 1240 1260 16 6268
2 Zan Bode 1200 1300 1280 1220 1240 9 6222
3 Alex Fritz 1200 1300 1280 1220 1240 10 6220
4 Jake Shannon 1280 1140 1160 1240 1200 8 6004
5 Adam Claessens 1180 1120 1280 1100 1200 2 5876
6 Dom Kehoe 1100 1180 1120 1140 1200 1 5738
7 Micah Humphrey 1180 1120 1140 1100 1200 2 5736
8 Dave Gates 960 1120 940 1000 920 2 4936

Open. FEMALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 audrey 780 0 0 0 0 0 780

Masters. FEMALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Carrey Flannery 460 480 660 540 320 0 2460

masters. MALE
place Name Prob 1 Prob 2 Prob 3 prob 4 prob 5 Falls Total
1 Dave Thompson 840 780 880 820 920 3 4234
2 Sean Flannery 580 660 880 700 680 7 3486
3 Steve Lerch 700 660 680 580 560 0 3180
4 Ron Lavigne 540 700 660 680 580 3 3154
5 Dave Molenaar 440 540 500 520 700 0 2700

South Sound Pull Down III

Cool...That's my feeling post comp. I've spent 30 of the past 72 hours in preparation for the Third Annual South Sound Pull Down. We had a good turn out this year, somewhere around 70 competitors. The local turn out was amazing, especially with the masters! Plus we had a handful of hard pullers from Portland and Seattle, (thanks guys, it made for an exciting day!). And, like every year, every single competitor left the comp with a prize in hand! Sponsors rock!
The little gym is finally growing up. It's eyeopening to see how much the gym has changed since the first days it was open, back when I was a youngin' with no footwork. With different ideas flowing in and out of the gym, it has now evolved a more respectable reputation. This was the first year I felt comfortable enough to send out fliers to all the other gyms. The turnout from other gyms was less than expected(due to Stone Gardens last minute Pump a thon comp on the same day...) but still a start. With winter '09 approaching expect more awesome sessions like the one at the comp. A positive vibe and some competition can lead to some pretty amazing sends, and surprise winners!
Another little detail is now that I'm able to set whatever it has been a blast setting for you guys and I enjoy continuing it. When the rock gym opened, I was 'before my time' sort of speak, and wasn't allowed to set hard routes and had issues with, a, supervisors... But the Warehouse is a friendly climbing community that continues to grow. I've been out climbing with more new people this year than ever before. Thanks y'all for coming down and making all the work of setting worth it! See ya 20 '10 .

Results posted soon, vid coming soon.

New vid!

It's now up...

2 Day Boulder Trip

It's starting to sound like a broken record, Leavenworth, Leavenworth, Leav... Last weekend Meg, Jeremy, and I headed east for a two day boulder fest. We met up with Kyle and Derick who arrived earlier. First stop was Mad Meadows where we ambled around looking for somethin' to warm up on. After a while(More coffee for Meg and Jeremy) we warmed up by the Peephole and worked our way over to Harry Spotter. Meg and Jeremy got to work and pretty soon all three of us topped it out! After the warm up we headed to Twisted tree where I managed the send of both Twister(V7) and Scrambled Eggs(V8). After messing around we headed up to JY and I gave Mad Max a couple of burns, but I got shut down cold on the very last move!
After a surprising warm night(around 45 instead of the predicted 33!) we headed over to the Icehouse and played on the moderates with Jeremy snatching another V5. The next destination was Mountain Home Road. None of us have ever been up there before and the view was unbelievable! I would absolutely put my house above the Star Wars boulder. After eating lunch a top of the boulder, Jeremy and I got to work climbing the steeper side. After cleaning up all the easier lines we migrated down to the cattleguard arete(V8) which was a little easier than how Micah descirbed it. After basking in the warm sun, we called it quits early and made it back to Oly in time for dinner. One of my goals was to actually film and I succeeded! A 5 min. vid will be posted shortly with sends from Jeremy, Meg and myself. Some climbs featured are Harry Spotter, Emperor's Lightning, Darth Maul, Little Bear and a couple others.
It took so long for the update because at school, climbing on the weekends means 12 hour days of School/Work. It SUCKS! but the benefits will be nice. Also, sign up for the WRG COMP! It is Oct. 17th. Sign up NOW. LOTS of good prizes. I hear there are some free shoes, free clothes and free gift cards!
-jimmy

The Carnival Boulders

Lisa on Giant Man(V4)
A Rubber Boa? on the way to the Beach-Forrest. Cool.

Sunday was a family day trip to the sunny slopes of Leavenworth. After a late start, I drove the three hours to Leavenworth! I wanted to check out the Carnival Boulders, an area in Icicle Canyon that I had yet to visit. I really enjoyed there(Except for taking a suicidal trail up, I was too far up canyon) After finding the correct trail, Lisa and I started ticking off the classic warm ups. She managed a flash of Giant Man(V4), and recomended a down grade. I though it was a little soft but still hard for guys with less grace... After a struggle with the Rib(V4), Lisa and I ditched the sunny slopes of Icicle to hit the shaded side of Tumwater Canyon. (Lisa had an interesting endeavor of a V1 mantel, chalkless and shoeless, the granite also happened to be in full sunlight and it took her some effort to not fall off) On the way out we ran into a tired Derrik and Kyle so we decided to go to the Beach-Forrest for some nicer temps. They rested in the cool water as Lisa and I got to work on Goiceachea, V9. At first, I thought I couldn't do the start. I pulled/nothing on the start. Lisa, meanwhile cruised to the big lunge and got decently close. After stealing her foot beta for the start, I managed the route with only one dab. 20 minutes later, I repeated sans dab and was glad to have sent this cool line(The top out was ugly though) The first move is a lunge to an incut crimp on an overhung, move the feet up, then cross just above to another incut crimp, move the left to a slopey crimp, right foot up to start rail and huck with everything to a big crimp on the lip. Lisa could do everything perfect except hit the crimp on the huck, she touched it but couldn't snag it! It was a short trip but fun, Lisa and I both sent the Terrible(V7), which is a kinda cool problem. I'm pretty happy now with my bouldering and I feel ready to push my limits on some of the harder test pieces... -jimmy

Finally...

Whoo0-hoo. I finally managed to get out to Leavenworth and climb! Sort of. The car was packed with Alexe, photo dude friend of Lisa, Russ climbing team superstar, and of course me. This was Russ's first outdoor climbing trip so we rolled into the forestland parking lot. To my surprise, only one other group was there. We warmed up on Breadline (V0) (the start broke a little) then Lisa set to work on One Summer Crouch (V6) which she eventually sent. I surprised myself with a first go repeat of the shield (V7). After messing around, we ventured to upper forestland so Lisa could work Kobe Tai (V8). Meanwhile, Russ and I headed out to do some easier stuff. We made our way over to Bad Moon Rising (V2), a slab, which took him only three tries to complete. First try he fell off the start, second try fell off around ten feet and scidded down(scarrry), third try sent so easily it made me jealous. He frikin cruised right up it! I managed the flash but with some hesitation (Sadly, I didn't get to try the Hessitator V1) After doing some other porblems we finally move on to the Sword. Lisa doesn't fully understand the art of a Leavenworth day trip, she thinks that time is to be easily wasted ...
Once we arrived at the sword boulders Both Lisa and I ticked off, The Sword (V3), The Dagger (V3), and Yo, Baby (V6). Russ did another V2 flash of the Classic. I also managed a send of Cole's Corner (V8/9) via a shoulder ripping dyno. With little sunlight left, we headed over to the Cotton Pony and played on the Pony Ride(V4) and Tampax Arete(V4). It was a pretty good trip but the sun is still blkazin' hot, fall is just around the corner an' I'm dying to turn it... -jimmy

Here are some pics from Yelm...
A crag, route quallity unkown
The Balla Boulder, potential traverse through steep part.

More Boulders

Wow, Yelm is turning out to be a hot spot for a bunch of so so boulders. Today, I wanted to go back down to last place off of the paved road, but the gate was open so it was a no go. There was one other access gate owned by Warehouser closer to the main highway. so after riding around on different trails for an hour, I found two pretty cool/solid boulders with a dozen or so easy problems. It probably has about a 25min. bike approach on flat gravel and maybe a 30min(probally less) walk on ATV trails. Brush will come this winter once huntin' season is over. The rock isn't conglomerate which is nice. just a quick update... -jimmy

View Larger Map

More Climbing in Olympia!

Since all my rides for a Leavenworth trip fell apart, I decided to stay local and check out a hunch I had 'bout some local climbing. Boy, was I rewarded. Awhile back I checked goolge Earth for some steep looking walls and found some near Yelm, on Vail Loop Road. I tried to check this place out earlier, but the road online is actually a gated Warehouser road. The second time the road was closed due to high fire danger. This time, all was good. I saw two potential crags(Rock quality unknown) but what I was huntin' fer were BOULDERS. The first one I found was a weird basketball shaped boulder, which is conglomerate similar to the near by Fossil Rock. A little father away there were 6 or so more in a little valley. The quality is iffy but it IS climbable. I'll be back with some pictures and a brush. The approach is a short 20min. bike ride on a PAVED road! There is rock near Oly, but consider it adventure bouldering... -jimmy

Click the link for a view from google earth of the boulder

View Larger Map

RAIN! In Leavenworth

30% chance my but! What was going to be a multi day trip with a couple car loads ended up being a fun day trip and one car. I went with some realitively new climbers who happen to be going to SPSCC too. Ryan, his sister Amanda, and Jimmy and I headed over the pass in rain and rolled into a cloud/Leavenworth. This has never happened to me before. We optimistaclly set up camp and headed over to the Swifterwater cave where a group from the Circuit Bouldering gym in Portland were huddle. We joined them for a bit and Ben was there(I met him in Squamish). I felt pretty strong in the cave, flashing the right route and getteing the middle left line in a couple goes(No top outs, it was raining). After debating what to do, we ventured into the tourist trap and walked around. We stopped in a cheese store and had some really good sweet/nutty cheese, so we bought a 1/4 pound and some pastries and headed to camp for dinner. After dinner in the rain we headed across the road to The Lefty(V7). The thing was hard and trick, but dry(though drips seemed to hunt down Jimmy). We made up a couple of lines. After messing around we called it quits, packed up and headed home. It was a harsh intro to outdoor climbing for Amanda, but next time it will be dryer, I promise!
On Sunday, Lisa, Eric Givins and I sped on up to Stone Gardens to test our nettle inside of the storm. I surprised myself flashing most V6's but getting shut down cold on V7's and up. It was good training to get on non-Jimmy routes, and not know the sequence. Hopefully next weekend is dry, so I can get on some nice granite. On side a note, I aquired the Mamzama Guide book and the place looks really fun, future trips next year... -jimmy

Bouldering in the Olympics

Oops, looks like I was on the sleeper boulder.

Olympics Bouldering

The Imperial Cruiser Boulder

An undone arete, Viper anyone?

Viper like arete, with project to the right.

No spotters=3 pads

I recently purchased the Olympic Mountain Rescue guidebook to the Olympics for information about Elhwa Wall, (a cool sandstone sport crag I'm checking out on Thur.), thumbing through the book I stumbled across a page called Jefferson Lake Boulders. I was surprised to see bouldering in a book like this since very little if any mountaineers boulder. So, I decided to go and check it out. Friday I left around 10ish with three pads an my mom to film, (filming over spotting, bring lots of pads). It took only around 1.5 hours to get there. I looked around first and saw 11 or so good boulders with at least 50 or so lines possible, most need a good scrubin' though. The best part is, if you want to camp the boulders surround a free campsite!

I grabbed my pads and headed off to the Yoda boulder, it had the most chalk on it, and was pretty steep. I flashed the line and then started cleaning the left side of the wall. I found a cool dyno and sent it with only a little hesitation before the big throw. Next, I had my eye on a cool arete on the Imperial Cruiser boulder. The start went at about V5ish but the top out was dirty. There was a slopey line to the right which had one or two hints of chalk. I gave this line a couple burns and figured its around V9/10 range. I'm really psyched to come back and work it some more.

After calling it a day for bouldering, it was time to explore(I probably like exploring more than boulering). We went over to the lake and first thing that catches my eye is this block with a 45 angle and a decent slab top out. I meandered my way over and was glad to find a line on this sick face. It would start on a juggy rail and go to two juggy pockets, a crimp then the lip! Next time this sick line is going down! Bad landing so some spotters would be nice.

It was a good day out, and I am definitely coming back. These blocks are certainly worth the time and effort... -JC

32 Trad

On Sunday, Eric, Andrew, Jessica and I headed over to 32 so Andrew could try out his new trad rack plus I could try some hard sport. The trad was fun and nothing got lost! I led three pure trad leads and one mixed route. I'm definitely leaning towards buying more cams because they're easier to place than nuts, but with nuts it's obvious whether if it's bomber or not(Dession time). I tried Californicator again and got to the same place and fell. I felt pretty good going into the crux, but couldn't decide what to do. I solved this problem with a heel hook(after I fell). Dom now has a pretty good lead on 8a and I don't expect him to slowdown anytime soon. It's hard to stay focused when after each Little Si session I feel a slight urge to go to Leavenworth. But, I'm in the best sport shape of my life now, and to stop would just be a waste. So Dom, keep looking over your shoulder, I'm still comin' after ya! -JC

Ozone Onsight

Dom showing his amazing onsight skills at Ozone

Weak Sauce w/ Dinner

Aye! Yesterday at the beginning of the session I felt like, well crap. I had no power and could not hang on! Then three Nalgenes later I realized that I didn't drink any water prior to climbing today. I climbed previously on Sunday and didn't have the H2O in me to finish depumping the arms. Needless to say, I learned my lesson and will try to drink more water daily.
Dom, Eric and I all zoomed down I-5 to get to Ozone, a cool portland crag. Dom's #1 agenda was to onsight the 5.12b he left untouched from the last trip. It was well worth the wait, he sent this line first go and it was impressive to see him suss it out with out pumping off, Good Job Dom! He is definitely the best rope gun in Oly. This was also Eric's first sport climbing trip ever. He started with a 5.10b TR flash and then led a 13 bolt 5.8. He also TR clean a 5.9 crack and got to the crux of the Humbling, 5.12a. All in all he had a pretty darn good first day of sport climbing. After doing some easier stuff I went for the flash of the 12b and managed to clip the chains sans falls. (I'm feeling pretty confident in my sport climbing now and want to try some harder onsights) Then I moved over to my project Slack Face(5.12d). It starts with the first crux of the 12b then goes straight into a crux section of 5.12c. On my last go I got to the last crux move then fell, On the plus side I found a bump that should help me send this line soon. Then Dom went for the onsight of Angle of the Dangle, a 5.12c roof crack with sport in between. I went for the flash and entered the crux with a semi ring-lock with the right hand and a sketchy hand jam for the left; I tried to dyno but my right hand didn't come out of the crack(my body dynoed but my hand stayed in place) So close yet so far... On the way down I cleaned the draws then swung out and well the fixed piece in the crack blew, and before I could do anything, I was falling on top of Eric(he was belaying me) We both ate it and were ok except for some minor cuts. Dom was laughing his head off as it must of been hilarious to have witnessed. (Read his blog for more details, I was falling so I couldn't see everything) ;)
On a side note I did my first ever real trad lead. A 5.9 and I placed my first cam ever and it didn't get stuck! At the end it was a pretty good trip and I plan on coming back to finish off Slack Face and some more of this trad stuff... -jc

Monkey with brains...

A famous quote from the Dominator as he stuck the victory jug on Graven Image after overshooting on his last throw. Yesterday the Oly crew(Dom, Laura, Micah, Greg, Nicholas, and ME) all went out to Little Si and did some of this sport climbin'. Nicholas was on a one track mind set to hop on Chronic ('cause he already did the first half for Californicator). I admired his psyche and headed on up to catch him a couple times as he found his beta and clipped the chains. After two more goes he did the route with only a couple falls and no long takes! He'll definitely send this climb in the future! As for me, I wasn't feelin' the Little Si psyche but I tried Hydrophobia and got farther this time. It will go soon. Then the rest of the crew joined us and we played around on Graven Image, a short two move 5.12c. I should've flashed but decided too late to try my heel hook beta, Oh well! I've also decided to make it a new routine of mine to always do at least one new problem per trip, no matter what the grade.

UPDATES

An older update but Jared and I went to Neverland and did the 3 pitch lost Boys(5.9 5.10a 5.7) It was Jared's first multipitch and he did an excellent job. The view from the top is beautiful and there is a nice ledge to belay/look at the scenery (Yes, I use a grigri) Then we headed over to Nevermind to do some single pitch stuff and I finished off The Goblet(5.12b) finally, using the correct holds. I also found a cool short and bouldery project, Deliverance(5.13b). It was a pretty muggy day but all in all it was fun.

-Olympia Area bouldering is almost on the map now, these two boulders are 45ish min. from the WRG.

Me on the V0, Hillbilly Hiker ;) 

Me on a cool V6 doing the first crux move. 

The main boulder looking at the V0 on the left. 

The first boulder, 7 feet Tall!

Brushes anyone

The Fuzz

Nicholas on the Fuzz V7 in Squamish.

Squamish '09

Wow, is all I can really say for the past six days I spent in Squamish, BC. Now, back in the States it seams all a blur and I find myself asking, 'Did it really happen?' Then I look at my scabbed up left arm, bloody leg and pink tips, yes is the answer they all point to...
Friday night, two cars departed from Oly. One with Luara, Melody, Sarah and the other had Nicholas, Dom, Erica and myself. It was a cramped ride but comfort is a necessary sacrifice for the trip. We had a mandatory tour of the waiting room at the border and a scavenger hunt to find the campsite that Laura picked out at the expensive campground due to the fact that the Squamish camping was packed. Around 1ish everyone was set for a good nights sleep with the falls in the background.
On Saturday we broke camp and headed over to the Squamish campground to see(in daylight) if any spots were open. YES! We found a site and Nicholas guarded it as we hurried to set up camp before someone nabbed it. The activity for the day was bouldering so we set off into the forest to climb some techy/heel hooky Squamish boulders. David Allwine met up with us and was a vital member of the session. We started off at this gnarly slab that Laura sent, I got close but no cigar. I saw this awesome climb called the Bulb(V8). (It starts on a jug under a roof and goes to an awesome sloper and another hard move leads to another awesome sloper. (This problem ate away at my left forearm and left a few nasty scrapes). After this we went to Murrien Park and swam across the lake which was the best way to end my first day back in Squamish.
Sunday was Laura's and Meldody's last day in Squamish. We headed over to the Smoke Bluffs to do some single pitch trad.(Which was really helpful I found out later) I led my first total trad route. a slabby 5.4 (I would have rather liked to solo then stop and put in gear) Nicholas did an Impressive onsight of a 5.10a with a scary slabby finish. Once the sun peaked over the top of the crag it was time to hit the shade and we decide to go back to the cool waters at Lake Murrien. After drip drying in the sun we shifted gears and suited up for the vertical world. Above the lake there are a couple of walls with a handfull of sport climbs apiece. We started with another, yup you guessed it, slabby 5.8(Climbs sans holds is becoming a reaccurring theme) It was O.K. Then Luara had an impressive onsight of a slightly runout 5.10a which had some awesome holds. Then Oly's finest went for the onsight of a 5.12a. Dom got close but fell at the tricky crux, he sent second go. Nicholas and I went for the flash and pulled through. In the parking lot we said our goodbyes to Luara and Meldoy as they departed for the USA.
Monday Dom and Nicholas had the goal of doing a crazy 23 pitch climb, Ultimate Everything Link Up, 5.11b.(Read dom's blog for more detials) We got up at six AM. Nicholas and Dom departed for the climb and I headed off for a solo bouldering mission. Go figure, I got lost trying to find Gibs Cave,(a cool V8 I left unfinished from last trip). Onced I found it the landing was a little worse then what I remembered so I cut my losses after a few burns and headed over to Cutting Edge(V4). (One of my goals was to try and finish off all the 5 star problems V6ish or easier). After messing up the flash I figured out the right way that led to the top and sent in three more goes. After this amazing line I migrated over to Easy in an Easy chair(V4). This is probably the best V4 in all of Squamish. After picking deciphering the perfect beta I went for the flash and found myself standing on top of this awesome classic. It was a fun little climb that packs a punch. After trying a few other problems I headed back to camp to wait for Dom and Nicholas. Sarah and Erica hiked up to the first tier of the Chieftan and did a cool 5.7 two pitch climb. We returned to the waters edge of Lake Murrien and I took a rest period while everyone else did some cool looking trad lines. Later that night we had a nice dinner and made plans for the following day. Also Tony finally arived after being led astray by his GPS. Dom aslo did a crazy onsight of a 5.12a. A first for him in Squamish. It was pretty different seeing Dom work this hard on a route. Congrats Dom!!!!!!
Tuesday was the day of the Multipitch. We had three groups. Nicholas and Erica headed up Diedre 5.8, a classic problem that also goes up the apron. Dom and Sarah, and Tony and I did Banana Peel 5.7, which is the line to the right of what Nicholas and Erica were doing. Dom and Sarah went first so hat I would know where to go. (This was my fourth multipitch ever, second trad lead ever, and longest multipitch route to boot). Go figure, the route was a slab route and the first pitch had no holds on it. You just had to walk up trusting your shoes. I took this pitch and it was a little nerve racking but when I got to the horizontal crack relief came flooding back into my veins. Tony took the second pitch which follows this horizontal rail to a cool ledge. So far we placed no pro for two short pitches. I took the third and started up a tree to reach a blank slab which I followed up to a sideways flake and i decided to put in two nuts and they were bomber. After this I headed on up for 25 feet or so to a tree(put a sling on it) and headed up to meet Sarah before she headed off to meet Dom. (Tony forgot to tie his shoes for this pitch so I took him, he tied them, then he cruised up to the belay) The fourth pitch was the crux pitch and the most exciting. I started up and slung a tree about twenty feet up. Then cruised up another twenty feet to a little ledge to fiddle in a nut that I Was 75% sure it would fail. after doing a hard move on to the face, the nut popped and headed off down the rope to meet up with the tree I slung earlier. I said 'Oh well, it is only 5.7' and headed off up a traversing slab that lead to a crack. another twenty feet later I found some gear Dom left and clipped into them looking at an 80 foot fall if i screwed up. 'well it is only 5.7 and I have a pretty good hand hold, I think my feet arn't slipping, I didn't slip on my way over here(just crimped really hard) O.K. clip' After this I headed up to do the crux moves which were crimping in a horizontal crack with crap-o-la smears. OnceIi reached the tree I slung in and wait to see Tony's face appear over the slab. Sarah mentioned something about a fall with dom, blood, looking spooked and maybe a root? (Read Dom's blog for the full Details) (I didn't get the full details until after the descent, good thing too) Tony met me at the ledge and called me crazy for running it out so far but I was confident that I was O.K. Last two pitches were 5.4 so Tony look them and we linked them together with my 70m. We did a little bit of simul climbing to reach the top. We couldn't hear each other so I just left a 10 foot loop of slack and climbed from good hold to good hold. It all worked out and I was the last from the Oly crew to finish up this route. 8 pitches in 5, not bad! The Down climb was a pretty interesting little hike and we all met up in the campsite and swapped stories of the mornings events.
Tuesday was so big it gets another paragraph. That afternoon we headed over to Checkamus Canyon to try our hands on some single pitch sport. I warmed up on a 10a and felt like crap. Then I moved over to this 'techy' 11a that I guessed I powered through and thought that it was easy. I tied the onsight of a hard 5.12a but got stopped at the crux. Then Nicholas tried this line called The Fleeing Heifer, a 5 star 5.12c classic of the crag. I got the beta from Dom and Nicholas for the flash and tied in and deciced, 'well i geuss i'll give it a go, what's the worse that could happen' After i got through the crux(surprised) I took a decent shake out on some jugs up high and got ready for the final crux, grabbed a crappy pinch, hand heel matched, slapped up to a sloper arete, and grabbed jug. 'Holy crap, I just Flashed a 5.12c' Realization sunk in as i clipped the chains and hung out for awhile. 'I guess all the SCS traning paid off' So all you kids out there, training is worth it!!!!! After this awesome climb I took a break and got ready for the climb that I orriginally wanted to do. Timber Queen, 5.12c. A STEEP line up a 30 foot boulder. Dom placed the draws and I got up to the reachy crux and flew of. (Oh well, can't ask for too much after Fleeing the Heifer) I'll return to send it as well as develope some bouldering here at this sport crag.
Wednsday we all slept in and it felt so good! Tony and Dom returned to Smoke Bluffs, Sarah and Erica went to the aquatic center to Hot Tub and shower. Nicholas and I went Bouldering. First up was Gull Skull, a V6 located next to Cutting Edge. On the flash i got to the crux but used the wrong heel for the move. Two tries later I stood on top of the boulder checking out the sound. Nicholas also sent this problem with some helpful beta from me. It was good to see some closure on his longtrem project. (5 Sessions) I thought the problem kind of easy probally cause it is more Leavenworth like then Squamish like. Nicholas had to leave for the aquatic center so i did a couple more classics then packed it up for a ride back to the States with Dom and Tony...
This was probally one of my favorite climbing trips ever. It was different then the rest with a pretty laid back attitude. I would normally perfer and big physce for the bouldering but for this trip the mood was perfect. Some highlights that I can remember...
-Dom onsighting a 5.12a and seeing him trying hard and fighting till the top-Dom and Nicholas doing 23 pitch Ultimate Link Up-Luara doing the impossable V3 slab-Me flashing Fleeing the Heifer(5.12c)-Getting scared on 5.7 multipitch-Enjoying the multipitch on the walk down once it was over-Seeing Sarah on the Mulitpitch-Erica not giving up on the top out of a boulder problem afer slipping-Nicholas busting out the Fuzz v7 and the dyno V8.(vid coming soon)

This trip is the reason why I climb and continue to do so today and till I fall for eternity...

Legends

Nicholas Projecting pre-send.

SLC '09

(No Caption Needed)
My proj. at Elephant Rock, City of Rocks. (Folows the far away arete from the lower shelf.)
Lisa on an amazing boulder behind Parking lot Wall, V2
Back on Bath rock Lisa flashing a 5.11c on Bath Rock, City of Rocks

This past week is now a blur since it is all over. We left last Wed and drove for two days out to Salt Lake City Utah for Sport Climbing Nationals. The setters did an amazing job keeping the routes fun all threedays. In the end i took 16th place and Lisa took 14th. Since I didn't make finals the night before the Circuit Coach and Zan(from the Circuit) and I all went for a night bouldering session up in Little Cottonwood Canyon(LCC). It was one of the best bouldering sessions I've ever had. Climbing scary high slabs in the dark and an awesome V5 arete pump-a-thon. It was a good night cut short by realizing it was 10:30 at night and one of the Cuircuit kids had speed climbing the next day. After Nationals we headed over to City of Rocks which is one of the coolest climbing places ever. Just hunks of Granite all over the plcae(a city of granite). We roped up the first day at bath rock and had fun doing granite sport climbing. This was Lisa's first time and I had done it once at Index years before. The Second day we went to Parking lot Rock where I got shut down on a 12a technofest and Lisa saved the day and got to the chains and will redpoint next time. After lunch we did some bouldering and exploring. I could easily spend two weeks here cleaning new boulder problems and finishing up the hard sport as well as hitting up the endless amount of moderate classics and three star routes. It was a good trip and now I'm back I want to do some more sport seeing that I'm in the best sport climbing shape ever!!! (Also a video of Nicholas projecting Legends before the send will be posted soon)

Granite country, City of Rocks, Idaho
Jimmy onsighting a 5.12a at Bath Rock

Sunset in Salt Lake City after Nationals
Twin Falls State Park, Idaho

Route finding at Bath Rock

Ozone

Over the weekend the Oly crew went down to Ozone for a change in scenery. The crag was made of basalt and had some really cool crimps and ledges. It was fun getting on new routes and attempting to flash/onsight them. There was a couple awesome looking 12c's and was able to get to the chains on one of them and I am very exicited to get back and try the rest. Ozone is a two thumbs up crag, small but the harder lines pack a punch(a big jump from .12a to.12c) As summer is here the posts will get shorter as I am less inclined to be online instead of burning up in the sun. I brought my camera to the Quarry aand a short video will be posted of some of the climbs. The next post will be After my nationals trip to Salt lake City wiht lots(hopefully) of bouldering on the way home(YES!!)...

A Really Good Week

Ahhh climbing...Climbing has its low points and its high points. This week was filled with high points. Legends, a 5.12c is the hardest bolted climb at the Teninio Quarry. It is composed of a bunch of hard bouldery moves without rest in between. I first tried this striking line two years ago and got painfully close to sending, falling two moves form the chains. Dom sent right after me snagging the second ascent. After being so close I was pissed and took a year break from this climb and came back to it this year. I tried the line a week earlier and all the moves came back and I managed to get it with one fall on TR. Then this past Wednesday, I tried it on TR and felt okay and I had a gut feeling it could go. After scrambling with Lisa(she tried her best) tossing draws up to me to put on the route(I caught most of the draws and the route was ready to be climbed). With the draws set(a special four foot sling draw to enable me to clip before the crux, looks funny but works) I pulled the rope and headed on up. I got passed the first crux okay which is a nasty move from a side pull to a crimp with feet smearing in a shallow dehidreal. Then I managed to get up to the OK sidepull jug and took a good shake before the final moves(this is where disaster struck two years ago) I pulled up to a sloper, placed the feet and hit the 3 finger jug w/o falling. YESSSSSS! I knew this chapter was over. It was such a relief to have finally finished this amazing line...
Lisa looked strong on it as well (on lead!) Both her and Nicholas will send soon.

On Friday, Dom, Micah, Nicholas and I all hopped into Micah's car and zipped up to little si with the windshield wipers a blasin'. Now most people will think we live in the loony house(No, just Washington) to be climbin' in the rain. Lucky for us, WW1 has a steep overhang and a hand full of the harder routes stay dry! Dom warmed up by checking out this crazy .13 bolted crack and Micah and Nicholas both warmed up on Rainy Day(5.12a) . Then Dom took a spin on PC7(5.12d) and slipped off the jug. I tried this amazing line and worked my way to the chains feeling pumped due to the never ending series of crimps. Dom tried it again this time using a bump to get to the chains and he SENT! He was very pleased with having completed this climb after the breakaged from last trip. Good job Dom! I sent next go with the beta and this cool, steep, over looked climb was finished. It should get more attention, the moves are rad and rare for little si, very savage stabs to crimps(like BOULDERING!). After this I gave propaganda a go, got passed the lower crux then fell at the upper one, pumped! Then the heavens released the rains and we were forced over to the dry area under Californicator(5.12d). Nicholas got the high point of us all. We all gave it a couple goes and Micah took a final lap on Abo to finish off the day. We hiked down in a downpour to find the car almost locked in(It was only 9:30!). We go some icecream and drove home, soaked, tired, sore and happy after a good day of climbing with old Friends...

Division 1 '09

STEEP was the key word of the comp at Pipe Works in Sacramento CA. Divisionals for the 09 SCS were held here and it was a fun an exciteful weekend. Day one qualifiers I flashed the first problem which was a little overhanging but a delicate crimp ladder. The second problem was balancy for three clips then went up this steep roof to a head wall. I fell at the head wall just at the lip, pumped from the first route and all the jug pulling! I qualified 5th for finals. Lisa and Victoria(VW) flashed both their qualifiers and tied for first for finals. Finals were held on the following day. The male Juniors route went up a steep headwall and was peppered with crimps. I pumped out a hold below where the majority made it and placed 7th in finals and 5th overall. Scott Corry flashed every problem, 5.12a, 5.12c, 5.13c! Lisa and Victoria both flashed their final route and went into a superfinal where Victoria inched ahead by three holds! Lisa came away with the Silver and we are headed to Nationals in Salt Lake City in mid July(with LOTS of bouldering on the way home)

Little Si Besisged by Boulders!

On Sunday, WW1 at Little Si was packed more than I've ever seen. Alex Fritz was there with Sam Wolfe and some other Vert. World Crew. I also finally met Bryan Burdo. He's a nice and laid back guy and gave Lisa and I some beta on Propaganda 5.12c, our current project. We warmed up on Phsyco Wussy 5.11b than I went for Pyshcosematic 5.12d and repeated clean. I debated whether or not to do the extension, but had no idea of a grade or if I could get back down! It looks cool though and I'll try it some time. Lisa almost managed the onsight Bust the Move and almost flash End of the World, both 5.12a . Dom and Laura rode up with us and Dom decides to play on the lower stuff with these cam and nut thingys!?! ;) It was a good day and I can see many more Little Si trips in my future(Lisa now thinks it's OK to climb at WW1),(Finally). Bouldering will(sadly) be put on hold until after SCS Nationals(If I make It). Divisionals are this weekend and we leave on Thursday to drive down to Sacramento.

Gold Bar

Colin on the V2- Warm up. (his first outdoor climb ever!)

On Sunday, Eric and his brother Colin and I all headed up to gold Bar to try some problems on the 5 star boulder. This was Colin's first time bouldering outside so he was definitely jumping off the deep end. We started with a V2-(we didn't finish up the slopey and very mossy arete) and he easily flashed it. Then we all did the Five Star Traverse(V3) which starts under a ladder and finishes as for Sobriosity. I then managed a repeat of The 5 Star Arete(V6). Then with all the pads we turned the landing for Green Padded Ass(V6) into a gym floor and got to work. This is one of the coolest problems ever going up on worsening sloping rails to a hard move to a jug. I got up to the last committing moves a couple times and dropped/slipped off. Then I went for it, I stuck a crimp, and crossed over to the jug and after a scary adventure to the top it was Done! Both Colin and Eric got close to the last rail and are definitely gonna come back and send. Then Colin and Eric got to work trying the 5 Star Arete(V6) and got shut down on the move to the tiny crimp. I then decided to play on Ground zero(V8) and managed to get to the crux while taking 15+ foot falls (thanks for the mondo Bill). With two triples, the mondo and a double the landing was doable. It hopefully will go next time. After getting roasted off at the 5 Star we moved to Camp Serene where Eric got up to the last move on the V4 before feeling sketched after a foot pop and jumped down. All in all it was a good day. The off roaders were abound in force but didn't bother us at all. Can't wait for cooler days and to get back out there. Here's a video of me on Ground Zero.(Coming soon)

Propaganda

On Saturday Lisa and I headed out to Little Si to pick out a project. I was surprised to see the main area at WW1 complete dry after the downpours thur-wed. There was a party on Reptiles so instead of trying Chronic I decide to give Propaganda(5.12c) a few goes. So far it is my favorite climb here. It has a technical start(which sucks but oh well) and then goes to some of the best steep sport climbing at WW1. Some hard moves on dead vertical side pulls to a juggy and pumpy(more pumpy than juggy) finish. Both Lisa and I were able to get up to the first crux an then up to the Second crux and then off to the chains. This awesome route should hopefully go next time!

(Rattlesnake Lake is dry to, the Snake's head boulder is dry)

Mayhem in Gotham City...

Batman almost caught in Gotham City(Leavenworth). On Sat. my sister, Mom and I all headed over the rainy mountains to Leavenworth. The rock was dry when we got there so we headed up to Mad Meadows so Lisa could finish off Hanta Man V9. We warmed up on the Pocket V4 and I jerked my shoulder a little bit. (To be honest, I wasn't that phsyced to climb, my shoulders were acting up and not wanting to pull) After this we moved over to Hanta Man and Lisa spent some time remembering the beta and now has the route worked down in two parts. (I almost repeated it and felt strong on the opening moves) Next I wanted to hop on The Sail V9. I tried it a couple times with my 5.10 dragons with no success with the right heel. After getting frustrated by not even doing the first move I put on my trusty Galileo's and sent first try! Then I showed Lisa the Jib V8 and she started playing with that and I went and tried the Peephole V11? I could do the opening moves up to the reach to the undercling. It will be fun to project this and The Ram V11 over the next few trips. Lisa successfully sen the Jib after a few goes!
It started to rain slightly so we decided to drive to the end of the paved road and saw a cool boulder that could be cleaned. On the way down we stopped at Span Man V10. The thing is hard but with some different foot beta it could go. Both Lisa and I got up to the biggest span move and got somewhat close to the hold. Our next stop was Batman.
(Now my shoulder is feeling good and surprisingly the problem was completely dry) We laid down the pads and took a look at the beta. I managed to get all the way to the crazy mantle my first go and got stuck trying to reach to the jug. After getting soooo close I kept trying untill Lisa and my Mom tied me up and dragged me away. Needless to say I can't wait to get back and send it! Over all it was a good day and the trip re-amped my bouldering pysche. Hopefully I'll be back around the end of May. Next wekkend is Little Si and I want to hop on some harder stuff and get some projects lined up. School's almost half way over too! Here's some pics...
Lisa warming up on the Pocket V4

Me getting ready to wrestle with the crux on Batman V8
Lisa getting ready to dispatch the Jib V8
The walk out from Mad Meadows...

Fossil Rocks! Sort of...

Chossy, Ticks, crap rock, these are only some of the rumors surrounding the Thurston County climbing area. I went for my first time this Sunday and it was, well fun! The rumors are true but not to an extreme extent. After meeting up with Duke in Tenino, we drove on out and made the cool bike ride(ok, the first part of the ride isn't too bad but then it gets steep, really steep) When we reached the top we chained up the bikes and warmed up on a 5.10b. It was balancy and took awhile to get used to. After onsighting this we moved over and tried P.O.T. a balancy 5.11b. I managed to stem and reach my way out of the crux and it was an ok climb. Wes arrived and gave it a burn and did quite well. He's climbing stronger than I remember from last year.
Then we moved over to the area classic Battle of the Bulge 5.11a. I managed another onsight and the day was feeling like it was gonna be a good one. This climb was completely solid except for one or two flakes.
Next up was Sketch Master 5.12a. I went for the onsight and got stuck 3/4 way up and took a hang. Then I clipped the chains and dispatched 2nd go. It is a very Smithy(Smith Rocks) climb with a balancy(nightmare) middle section up to a decent rest. After this there is one more balancy move and then campusing on jugs! It was a good route but the finish was a little scary cause of a bunch of decent sized rocks looking poised to go at any moment.
Then a Jared and Bryan showed up and we moved back to the main area and they did some easier stuff . I also tried New Age Technician a manufactured route trying not to use the bolted on holds. It would go probably at 5.13- but there are also drilled pockets. Oh well...
Then a Local Jim(not Yoder) showed up and started climbing. He bashed the WRG so in an attempt to flash his project I fell and sent Second Go. (Damn!) (He still is an OK guy he just has his Gyms mixed up, ;)
Over all Chosil Rock isn't that bad. A couple guidelines: 1) Bring Tick spray and use it! 2) Spread out your weight, don't dyno to a knob. 3) Stay on the chalk and it is pretty much solid. Don't stray too far and you will always knock off small stuff with your feet but most of the hands are Really Solid. There is also some bouldering potential i will explore in the upcoming months depending on school/climbing schedule! So I suggest that If you are a solid leader go and check it out. Almost guaranteed to have the place to your self on a week day too...

Quarring

The time honored tradition of climbing at the Tenino sandstone quarry is upon us once again. The weather has been good so far and the future looks bright, (literally). On wed, Dave, Duke, Ed, Lisa myself and two others were there havin' a blast. I finally led Futility Bill 5.11d, after re-learning the crux beta. I am also pretty optimistic that The Riddler 5.11d will go next. Also the TR Evil Calvin 5.12b/c will be bolted. It has a V5/6 crux at the top but both Lisa and I managed it. Lisa uses a crimp/nothing and I use a sloper with a couple big bumps to a better sloper. And also my Video is coming shortly!

Tripple Eights and Two Aces

Read Em' and weep. This weekend a good size crew from Oly made the journey out to Leavenworth. I left with Dom and Micah, Lisa went up with my Mom. Jeremy came up with Luke and Jena, and Erica came with and James and a dude and his girl from the gym also came with James. Whoooh, a lot of people. Our first stop was forestland where previously I left Bananas and Kobe Tai undone. We warmed up in Lower forestland and Jeremy and Luke wandered on up. After the warm up laps Micah and I were super phsyced. So we made the henious three minute journey up to the upper forest land and threw the pads down at he base of Bananas(V8). After seeing Micah's beta for Bananas I gave it a few goes and topped it out (I hate scary top outs w/ bad landings) The top out wasn't to pretty but I did what was necessary to get to the top! Then we shifted the pads over to Kobe Tai(V8) and gave it a few goes, getting close to the good jug. I was tryng it my way, going left and doing a bunch of stupid moves while Micah was doing the right way, which I then tried and sent.(I also did the hard move my way later). While we were gettin' phsyed Lisa and Dom took a mellow approach and Lisa cleaned up one summer(V5) while Dom did Cruise Control(V6) and almost did Busted(V8). Then after spending half a day at Forestland we migrated to the Lonely fish boulder where Oly history was made!
We set up the three tripples and two doubles and started throwin' ourselves at Lonely Fish(V9). Micah got on it and we were all getting close falling on the last hard move. Then Micah got his guns loaded and stuck the jug and topped 'er out. Then I managed to latch the jug and sketched my way to the top. And then for a grand Finale Lisa stepped up to the plate and sent The Lonely Fish (V9). Her hardest RP to date. Her second hardest red point was a V6 she FA earlier in the day! Her training like crazy 2 days a week+Weights 2 days a week+volleyball 3days week=hard climbs ticked OFF! Dom also came hella' close to flashing this climb but slipped off the jug and he'll clean this up next time. After we gathered some wood we had a big fire and rested our numb paws...(Bombs Away is a cool V7 no matter what Dom and Micah say, it just has a hard/uggly finish)

The second days was bright with the sun shining and flowers blooming and problems being Crushed!!(well most of them) We started for the Pretty boulders and I sent everything there minus pretty boy (but more about that later). Pretty girl(V3) was fun but not my favorite. We tried Pretty hate machine and first go I got half way through the dyno. (The route starts on a juggy undercling with crap feet. You then move to a good left hand jug and grab a crimp on the corner. Then throw up a heel, rock on the heel to a pinch, bump left to crimp smear smear and bust to the lip) A couple go's later I slipped off the finish and started to suck. Then I gave it my full extension and latched the jug and rolled over the top very pleased.
Next I went and tried pretty boy(V7) which is a dyno to a decent crimp but my raw fingers wouldn't let me grab on so it will go next time (also Dom and Micha got bored and started playing w/ sticks and........) I got really pissed because I knew I could do the problem but my fingers wouldn't crimp. Then we had an exciting drive to Swift Water for lunch and gave some final burns on Joel's Traverse(V6) which I tried 3 years a go(Pre-guideook) and this time after losing a bunch of skin I latched the finish rail and groveled over(another hard and awkward top out but at least this one had a nice landing).
All in all this was probably one of my best trips ever. Last year I started with 7,7,8,8and this year it's 8,8,8,9 so I'm feelin' a good season coming both in sport and bouldering. I'm also NOT phscyed to climb in the gym right now because the sun is out and all I/(every climber in the world) wants to do is climb in the sun with a good group of friends and enjoy nice cool mountain air and some crisp mountain boulders. But in reality you'll see me settin' more W-stupid problems at the gym but this summer I'm only working two days or so a week and climbin' and bikin' the rest. Next stop is either Leavenworth on Little Si after the Edgeworks Onsight Comp. Sorry no photos but there will be a short video soon(as you can guess, I climbed a lot this trip) For photos check out Dom's and Micah's blogs. So get out there you gym rats, buy a guide, grab some pads and I hope to see you crankin' out there this summer...

Bridge of the Gods/Comp

Lisa, Eric, Zan and Nicholi and I all crammed into the tiny Camry to go bouldering on Saturday with two pads doing flips on the roof(yes, we stopped and all of us grabbed a strap and held the pads down for 1/2 hour) Once we got there, the threat of rain was postponed so we hopped on the V9. We were warmed up because we did a comp right before, so who needs to warm up! right? We all left the comp at the end of climbing so I'm pretty sure I tied for second and Lisa won. On a side note, some parent was talking about the WRG Team! (we now kick ass!, or at least some! ;)

The Bridge of the Gods is a cool bouldering area on the Washington side of the Columbia River. The rock is like sharp Smith Rock tuff in a basalt lava field. (No pics cause Lisa left the camera in the van) After trying the V9 we moved over to an awesome V7 that goes up a left leaning arete. I got half way up and couldn't move my left foot higher and fell. Eric made an impressive flash of this climb. he was pulling strong outside, just not in the gym. Good job Eric! Then Zan showed us this scary V4 and Eric went for the committing dyno a couple times and got within an inch of the victory jug. Taking some nice ten foot falls (his feet were at the ten foot mark). Zan and I found a Lowball and it was very fun. A pillar fell over long ago and made this nice three mover compression problem. After playing on this for a bit the unavoidable rain started so we crammed back into the car and strapped the pads correctly so no numb hands and headed back to Portland. I definitely want to come back here and with some brushes and the oly crew. do some explorin and boulderin'....