Gold Bar

Colin on the V2- Warm up. (his first outdoor climb ever!)

On Sunday, Eric and his brother Colin and I all headed up to gold Bar to try some problems on the 5 star boulder. This was Colin's first time bouldering outside so he was definitely jumping off the deep end. We started with a V2-(we didn't finish up the slopey and very mossy arete) and he easily flashed it. Then we all did the Five Star Traverse(V3) which starts under a ladder and finishes as for Sobriosity. I then managed a repeat of The 5 Star Arete(V6). Then with all the pads we turned the landing for Green Padded Ass(V6) into a gym floor and got to work. This is one of the coolest problems ever going up on worsening sloping rails to a hard move to a jug. I got up to the last committing moves a couple times and dropped/slipped off. Then I went for it, I stuck a crimp, and crossed over to the jug and after a scary adventure to the top it was Done! Both Colin and Eric got close to the last rail and are definitely gonna come back and send. Then Colin and Eric got to work trying the 5 Star Arete(V6) and got shut down on the move to the tiny crimp. I then decided to play on Ground zero(V8) and managed to get to the crux while taking 15+ foot falls (thanks for the mondo Bill). With two triples, the mondo and a double the landing was doable. It hopefully will go next time. After getting roasted off at the 5 Star we moved to Camp Serene where Eric got up to the last move on the V4 before feeling sketched after a foot pop and jumped down. All in all it was a good day. The off roaders were abound in force but didn't bother us at all. Can't wait for cooler days and to get back out there. Here's a video of me on Ground Zero.(Coming soon)

Propaganda

On Saturday Lisa and I headed out to Little Si to pick out a project. I was surprised to see the main area at WW1 complete dry after the downpours thur-wed. There was a party on Reptiles so instead of trying Chronic I decide to give Propaganda(5.12c) a few goes. So far it is my favorite climb here. It has a technical start(which sucks but oh well) and then goes to some of the best steep sport climbing at WW1. Some hard moves on dead vertical side pulls to a juggy and pumpy(more pumpy than juggy) finish. Both Lisa and I were able to get up to the first crux an then up to the Second crux and then off to the chains. This awesome route should hopefully go next time!

(Rattlesnake Lake is dry to, the Snake's head boulder is dry)

Mayhem in Gotham City...

Batman almost caught in Gotham City(Leavenworth). On Sat. my sister, Mom and I all headed over the rainy mountains to Leavenworth. The rock was dry when we got there so we headed up to Mad Meadows so Lisa could finish off Hanta Man V9. We warmed up on the Pocket V4 and I jerked my shoulder a little bit. (To be honest, I wasn't that phsyced to climb, my shoulders were acting up and not wanting to pull) After this we moved over to Hanta Man and Lisa spent some time remembering the beta and now has the route worked down in two parts. (I almost repeated it and felt strong on the opening moves) Next I wanted to hop on The Sail V9. I tried it a couple times with my 5.10 dragons with no success with the right heel. After getting frustrated by not even doing the first move I put on my trusty Galileo's and sent first try! Then I showed Lisa the Jib V8 and she started playing with that and I went and tried the Peephole V11? I could do the opening moves up to the reach to the undercling. It will be fun to project this and The Ram V11 over the next few trips. Lisa successfully sen the Jib after a few goes!
It started to rain slightly so we decided to drive to the end of the paved road and saw a cool boulder that could be cleaned. On the way down we stopped at Span Man V10. The thing is hard but with some different foot beta it could go. Both Lisa and I got up to the biggest span move and got somewhat close to the hold. Our next stop was Batman.
(Now my shoulder is feeling good and surprisingly the problem was completely dry) We laid down the pads and took a look at the beta. I managed to get all the way to the crazy mantle my first go and got stuck trying to reach to the jug. After getting soooo close I kept trying untill Lisa and my Mom tied me up and dragged me away. Needless to say I can't wait to get back and send it! Over all it was a good day and the trip re-amped my bouldering pysche. Hopefully I'll be back around the end of May. Next wekkend is Little Si and I want to hop on some harder stuff and get some projects lined up. School's almost half way over too! Here's some pics...
Lisa warming up on the Pocket V4

Me getting ready to wrestle with the crux on Batman V8
Lisa getting ready to dispatch the Jib V8
The walk out from Mad Meadows...