A Really Good Week

Ahhh climbing...Climbing has its low points and its high points. This week was filled with high points. Legends, a 5.12c is the hardest bolted climb at the Teninio Quarry. It is composed of a bunch of hard bouldery moves without rest in between. I first tried this striking line two years ago and got painfully close to sending, falling two moves form the chains. Dom sent right after me snagging the second ascent. After being so close I was pissed and took a year break from this climb and came back to it this year. I tried the line a week earlier and all the moves came back and I managed to get it with one fall on TR. Then this past Wednesday, I tried it on TR and felt okay and I had a gut feeling it could go. After scrambling with Lisa(she tried her best) tossing draws up to me to put on the route(I caught most of the draws and the route was ready to be climbed). With the draws set(a special four foot sling draw to enable me to clip before the crux, looks funny but works) I pulled the rope and headed on up. I got passed the first crux okay which is a nasty move from a side pull to a crimp with feet smearing in a shallow dehidreal. Then I managed to get up to the OK sidepull jug and took a good shake before the final moves(this is where disaster struck two years ago) I pulled up to a sloper, placed the feet and hit the 3 finger jug w/o falling. YESSSSSS! I knew this chapter was over. It was such a relief to have finally finished this amazing line...
Lisa looked strong on it as well (on lead!) Both her and Nicholas will send soon.

On Friday, Dom, Micah, Nicholas and I all hopped into Micah's car and zipped up to little si with the windshield wipers a blasin'. Now most people will think we live in the loony house(No, just Washington) to be climbin' in the rain. Lucky for us, WW1 has a steep overhang and a hand full of the harder routes stay dry! Dom warmed up by checking out this crazy .13 bolted crack and Micah and Nicholas both warmed up on Rainy Day(5.12a) . Then Dom took a spin on PC7(5.12d) and slipped off the jug. I tried this amazing line and worked my way to the chains feeling pumped due to the never ending series of crimps. Dom tried it again this time using a bump to get to the chains and he SENT! He was very pleased with having completed this climb after the breakaged from last trip. Good job Dom! I sent next go with the beta and this cool, steep, over looked climb was finished. It should get more attention, the moves are rad and rare for little si, very savage stabs to crimps(like BOULDERING!). After this I gave propaganda a go, got passed the lower crux then fell at the upper one, pumped! Then the heavens released the rains and we were forced over to the dry area under Californicator(5.12d). Nicholas got the high point of us all. We all gave it a couple goes and Micah took a final lap on Abo to finish off the day. We hiked down in a downpour to find the car almost locked in(It was only 9:30!). We go some icecream and drove home, soaked, tired, sore and happy after a good day of climbing with old Friends...

Division 1 '09

STEEP was the key word of the comp at Pipe Works in Sacramento CA. Divisionals for the 09 SCS were held here and it was a fun an exciteful weekend. Day one qualifiers I flashed the first problem which was a little overhanging but a delicate crimp ladder. The second problem was balancy for three clips then went up this steep roof to a head wall. I fell at the head wall just at the lip, pumped from the first route and all the jug pulling! I qualified 5th for finals. Lisa and Victoria(VW) flashed both their qualifiers and tied for first for finals. Finals were held on the following day. The male Juniors route went up a steep headwall and was peppered with crimps. I pumped out a hold below where the majority made it and placed 7th in finals and 5th overall. Scott Corry flashed every problem, 5.12a, 5.12c, 5.13c! Lisa and Victoria both flashed their final route and went into a superfinal where Victoria inched ahead by three holds! Lisa came away with the Silver and we are headed to Nationals in Salt Lake City in mid July(with LOTS of bouldering on the way home)

Little Si Besisged by Boulders!

On Sunday, WW1 at Little Si was packed more than I've ever seen. Alex Fritz was there with Sam Wolfe and some other Vert. World Crew. I also finally met Bryan Burdo. He's a nice and laid back guy and gave Lisa and I some beta on Propaganda 5.12c, our current project. We warmed up on Phsyco Wussy 5.11b than I went for Pyshcosematic 5.12d and repeated clean. I debated whether or not to do the extension, but had no idea of a grade or if I could get back down! It looks cool though and I'll try it some time. Lisa almost managed the onsight Bust the Move and almost flash End of the World, both 5.12a . Dom and Laura rode up with us and Dom decides to play on the lower stuff with these cam and nut thingys!?! ;) It was a good day and I can see many more Little Si trips in my future(Lisa now thinks it's OK to climb at WW1),(Finally). Bouldering will(sadly) be put on hold until after SCS Nationals(If I make It). Divisionals are this weekend and we leave on Thursday to drive down to Sacramento.