Ahhh climbing...Climbing has its low points and its high points. This week was filled with high points. Legends, a 5.12c is the hardest bolted climb at the Teninio Quarry. It is composed of a bunch of hard bouldery moves without rest in between. I first tried this striking line two years ago and got painfully close to sending, falling two moves form the chains. Dom sent right after me snagging the second ascent. After being so close I was pissed and took a year break from this climb and came back to it this year. I tried the line a week earlier and all the moves came back and I managed to get it with one fall on TR. Then this past Wednesday, I tried it on TR and felt okay and I had a gut feeling it could go. After scrambling with Lisa(she tried her best) tossing draws up to me to put on the route(I caught most of the draws and the route was ready to be climbed). With the draws set(a special four foot sling draw to enable me to clip before the crux, looks funny but works) I pulled the rope and headed on up. I got passed the first crux okay which is a nasty move from a side pull to a crimp with feet smearing in a shallow dehidreal. Then I managed to get up to the OK sidepull jug and took a good shake before the final moves(this is where disaster struck two years ago) I pulled up to a sloper, placed the feet and hit the 3 finger jug w/o falling. YESSSSSS! I knew this chapter was over. It was such a relief to have finally finished this amazing line...
Lisa looked strong on it as well (on lead!) Both her and Nicholas will send soon.
On Friday, Dom, Micah, Nicholas and I all hopped into Micah's car and zipped up to little si with the windshield wipers a blasin'. Now most people will think we live in the loony house(No, just Washington) to be climbin' in the rain. Lucky for us, WW1 has a steep overhang and a hand full of the harder routes stay dry! Dom warmed up by checking out this crazy .13 bolted crack and Micah and Nicholas both warmed up on Rainy Day(5.12a) . Then Dom took a spin on PC7(5.12d) and slipped off the jug. I tried this amazing line and worked my way to the chains feeling pumped due to the never ending series of crimps. Dom tried it again this time using a bump to get to the chains and he SENT! He was very pleased with having completed this climb after the breakaged from last trip. Good job Dom! I sent next go with the beta and this cool, steep, over looked climb was finished. It should get more attention, the moves are rad and rare for little si, very savage stabs to crimps(like BOULDERING!). After this I gave propaganda a go, got passed the lower crux then fell at the upper one, pumped! Then the heavens released the rains and we were forced over to the dry area under Californicator(5.12d). Nicholas got the high point of us all. We all gave it a couple goes and Micah took a final lap on Abo to finish off the day. We hiked down in a downpour to find the car almost locked in(It was only 9:30!). We go some icecream and drove home, soaked, tired, sore and happy after a good day of climbing with old Friends...
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