Birthday in Bishop

***In the words of Dom and Micah, Put a pot of tea on the stove for this post***
Better than Amtrack?

The ride to the Buttermilks from camp w/ 6 people, day 4

Wow, finally home from the past week which is now a blur of lost skin and enegry well spent on classics in the amazingly beatiful yet astetic lines from Bishop California. The journey began with a Jeep packing for the history books. Surprisingly enough, we managed to cram everything into the Jeep and headed south Tue night at around eight. The drive felt never ending, litterally, but we had some nice stops along the way. In the Cali city of Auburn, we stopped at Awefull Annies for some amazingly large and cheap vittles. After another infinite driving session with body parts nubing, the city of bishop appeared and we set of our camp at around 5:30. Pysched, we headed to the Buttermilks main area to get a taste of what we drove 20ish hours for. Now, I didn't know what to expect, Micah and Dom whom have previously made the adventure said it is very gym like movement. So after a quick warm up I headed over to green wall and managed the flash of green wall center(V6) and Green wall essential(V2). This is when I realized that I was in for a fun and crushing trip to Bishop and the problems aren't as criptic as I imangined them to be(granted, all flashes were beta flashes, with som any people, comp strategy came in handing when giving a flash attempt). We headed back to camp which was engulfed in 20mph winds and 40mph gust. Around 1 am the saying of the trip was heard over the gusts, "John your s*** is f****** everywhere." After this, I attempt to sleep in the Jeep's passenger seat, Corry was in the back seat, his tent one of the 4 who collapsed in the night.

Day two, the survvivors crawled out from under their tents and we decided that we will spend the day at the Happies(Don't remember exactly, but close enough). The Happies were not as cool as I expected but where more suited for those who love lowballs, cough, Jimmy W, cough. We warmed up near Heavenly Path(V1), an excellent intro into high and easy slabs. Then came the lowdown for the 4 out of 3 stars climb, the Hulk(V6). I managed my way through the juggy start to a hard right hand move to a crappy undercling, setting the right toe hook, and thinking "I have to really cross over with my right hand?" I went for it and in a swinging furry of legs, through my left up, and scampered to the to top. Flash. Next Up was Morning Dove(V7) white and with similar results of Hulk, Flash. I did start to get pumped on the final rail and had to crimp the hell out of the last rail to get to the the top. Next came acid wash(V10) where after some time managed the stand start and was hitting the starting rail of the sit but couldn't put it together. Next time. After trying a few others, Jimmy, Ryan, Corry and the rest of the crew headed back to camp. BUT, we were in desperate need of sleep and with predicted 60mph winds we anted up and got a hotel. We slept for a good 11 hours and then headed for the Buttermilks, round 2.

This day we began at the far side of the Buttermilks by Checkerboard. The previous day we checked out the area and located Solitaire(V8). This is a cool burley line and after a few burns of zoning in the sweet spot, I managed the send for my first, and Olys first, Bishop V8. I Was pretty damn happy about sending this line I doubted due to the big as, well, big moves. Next we headed back to the classics side and meandered over to high plains drifter(V7). After waiting around awhile watching(stealing beta, hehe) We laid down some more pads and I pulled off the start and entered the criptic sequence, In classic Jimmy style, my feet cut on the drifter move and I campused my foot over hanging onto the last two slopers then scampered again to the top of another Bishop classic boulder coming away with the flash. Then later that day(or another, I don't remember) we headed over to the get carter boulder. After watching a few people burn on Seven Spanish Angeles(V6) I stepped on up and worked through the slopers to a dyno. Now my right hand was still wrapped and I knew I was screwed, so when in doubt, BURL. I threw to the last crimp/slope w/ my right and hucked almighty to the finish hold, flash. (I remember reading dom's blog and seeing his picture and reading ...dyno..., so I went big). But, the day was not over yet. After trying to truly flash Get Carter(V7), I missed a crucial heel and fell. Next burn, with beta, stuck the heel and sent, could've flashed but didn't care. The left line on this boulder caught my eye and and start working Twin Cracks Left (V9). After making progress through the first crux, I chalked up, felt strong on the first left hand finger lock, and ended up on top of this boulder for the third time. Not a bad day.

Day three, (There's a rest day in there somewhere). Return to the Buttermilks, This is the second to last day and we were all feeling a little sore and beat by now. We started off at the Iron man Traverse(V4). This is only 3 stars in the guide but deserves 4. Way better than the hulk. Jimmy and Ryan gave it some good burns and came close to the last move, but will definitively send next year. Both managed to do the V2 at the Grandma Peabody for a send and this trip was a good motivation to hit up the gym more and get ready for Leavenworth. After sending the traverse with feet, next burn was sans feet to complete the warm up. (Now by this time I feel a little bit like an ass hole, flashing everybody's past and current projects, but I got over it pretty quick ;) ). Next we meandered but to Fly Boy where I again, ah, flashed, the line but this one was different. I had to fight my way through the series of crimps and I remember thinking before the final throw, "f*** I'm pumped here goes nothing" then boom, I stuck the lip and litterly grovelled over the lip for the flash, pumped to hell. (*The video will show me shaking my fingers because this was the first real PAIN I felt. My tips were beginning to get raw and the pain actually penetrated my mental zone and I had to fight to ignore to stay on for the flash. But as you will see, similar to my shoulder, you can't ignore it forever) The day was not over yet, next stop was Soul Slinger which after unlocking the critic upper crux, I sent right after Evan, a guy form the bay area. This basically sapped all my energy and was the end of my trip.

The next moring we headed back to the Happies and I gave Toxic Avenger(V9) a good go but was too tired to get it. Bishop was an awesome adventure and I managed to try many classics but I have so many left too do. I'm real excited for next year where it's in the works to return, but were planning on getting some cabins! The setting is amazing and Leavenworth is very similar to Bishop and is comparable if it sees enough traffic to become as polished. Sadly, I didn't make it out to Owens River Gorge but next time, hopefully. Well the bouldering bug bit me hard and it'll be difficult to put my harness back on but I think I hear Little Si calling. By the way, this was the second climbing trip we had to change a flat tire making for two 20 hour drives.

More Pics and Video coming soon... -jimmy