Tripple Eights and Two Aces

Read Em' and weep. This weekend a good size crew from Oly made the journey out to Leavenworth. I left with Dom and Micah, Lisa went up with my Mom. Jeremy came up with Luke and Jena, and Erica came with and James and a dude and his girl from the gym also came with James. Whoooh, a lot of people. Our first stop was forestland where previously I left Bananas and Kobe Tai undone. We warmed up in Lower forestland and Jeremy and Luke wandered on up. After the warm up laps Micah and I were super phsyced. So we made the henious three minute journey up to the upper forest land and threw the pads down at he base of Bananas(V8). After seeing Micah's beta for Bananas I gave it a few goes and topped it out (I hate scary top outs w/ bad landings) The top out wasn't to pretty but I did what was necessary to get to the top! Then we shifted the pads over to Kobe Tai(V8) and gave it a few goes, getting close to the good jug. I was tryng it my way, going left and doing a bunch of stupid moves while Micah was doing the right way, which I then tried and sent.(I also did the hard move my way later). While we were gettin' phsyed Lisa and Dom took a mellow approach and Lisa cleaned up one summer(V5) while Dom did Cruise Control(V6) and almost did Busted(V8). Then after spending half a day at Forestland we migrated to the Lonely fish boulder where Oly history was made!
We set up the three tripples and two doubles and started throwin' ourselves at Lonely Fish(V9). Micah got on it and we were all getting close falling on the last hard move. Then Micah got his guns loaded and stuck the jug and topped 'er out. Then I managed to latch the jug and sketched my way to the top. And then for a grand Finale Lisa stepped up to the plate and sent The Lonely Fish (V9). Her hardest RP to date. Her second hardest red point was a V6 she FA earlier in the day! Her training like crazy 2 days a week+Weights 2 days a week+volleyball 3days week=hard climbs ticked OFF! Dom also came hella' close to flashing this climb but slipped off the jug and he'll clean this up next time. After we gathered some wood we had a big fire and rested our numb paws...(Bombs Away is a cool V7 no matter what Dom and Micah say, it just has a hard/uggly finish)

The second days was bright with the sun shining and flowers blooming and problems being Crushed!!(well most of them) We started for the Pretty boulders and I sent everything there minus pretty boy (but more about that later). Pretty girl(V3) was fun but not my favorite. We tried Pretty hate machine and first go I got half way through the dyno. (The route starts on a juggy undercling with crap feet. You then move to a good left hand jug and grab a crimp on the corner. Then throw up a heel, rock on the heel to a pinch, bump left to crimp smear smear and bust to the lip) A couple go's later I slipped off the finish and started to suck. Then I gave it my full extension and latched the jug and rolled over the top very pleased.
Next I went and tried pretty boy(V7) which is a dyno to a decent crimp but my raw fingers wouldn't let me grab on so it will go next time (also Dom and Micha got bored and started playing w/ sticks and........) I got really pissed because I knew I could do the problem but my fingers wouldn't crimp. Then we had an exciting drive to Swift Water for lunch and gave some final burns on Joel's Traverse(V6) which I tried 3 years a go(Pre-guideook) and this time after losing a bunch of skin I latched the finish rail and groveled over(another hard and awkward top out but at least this one had a nice landing).
All in all this was probably one of my best trips ever. Last year I started with 7,7,8,8and this year it's 8,8,8,9 so I'm feelin' a good season coming both in sport and bouldering. I'm also NOT phscyed to climb in the gym right now because the sun is out and all I/(every climber in the world) wants to do is climb in the sun with a good group of friends and enjoy nice cool mountain air and some crisp mountain boulders. But in reality you'll see me settin' more W-stupid problems at the gym but this summer I'm only working two days or so a week and climbin' and bikin' the rest. Next stop is either Leavenworth on Little Si after the Edgeworks Onsight Comp. Sorry no photos but there will be a short video soon(as you can guess, I climbed a lot this trip) For photos check out Dom's and Micah's blogs. So get out there you gym rats, buy a guide, grab some pads and I hope to see you crankin' out there this summer...