Monday, August 17, 2009
32 Trad
On Sunday, Eric, Andrew, Jessica and I headed over to 32 so Andrew could try out his new trad rack plus I could try some hard sport. The trad was fun and nothing got lost! I led three pure trad leads and one mixed route. I'm definitely leaning towards buying more cams because they're easier to place than nuts, but with nuts it's obvious whether if it's bomber or not(Dession time). I tried Californicator again and got to the same place and fell. I felt pretty good going into the crux, but couldn't decide what to do. I solved this problem with a heel hook(after I fell). Dom now has a pretty good lead on 8a and I don't expect him to slowdown anytime soon. It's hard to stay focused when after each Little Si session I feel a slight urge to go to Leavenworth. But, I'm in the best sport shape of my life now, and to stop would just be a waste. So Dom, keep looking over your shoulder, I'm still comin' after ya! -JC
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3 comments:
GOod Job Jimmy
don't heel hook jimmy. the beta is from the typewriter hold go left hand to the bad smileyface crimp, then fall into the sidepull in front of your face with the right, then bring your right foot up to the good foothold just below the typewriter, gaston up left with the left, cross through to a good crimp with the right, and reach up to the jug with the left. -got it? ok now send it!
I tried it that way, but I can't crimp that hard on the sidepull, my way will go, plus my endurance sucks, I was hecka pumped for the finish. Good job finishin' it off!!!!!
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