Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Weak Sauce w/ Dinner

Aye! Yesterday at the beginning of the session I felt like, well crap. I had no power and could not hang on! Then three Nalgenes later I realized that I didn't drink any water prior to climbing today. I climbed previously on Sunday and didn't have the H2O in me to finish depumping the arms. Needless to say, I learned my lesson and will try to drink more water daily.
Dom, Eric and I all zoomed down I-5 to get to Ozone, a cool portland crag. Dom's #1 agenda was to onsight the 5.12b he left untouched from the last trip. It was well worth the wait, he sent this line first go and it was impressive to see him suss it out with out pumping off, Good Job Dom! He is definitely the best rope gun in Oly. This was also Eric's first sport climbing trip ever. He started with a 5.10b TR flash and then led a 13 bolt 5.8. He also TR clean a 5.9 crack and got to the crux of the Humbling, 5.12a. All in all he had a pretty darn good first day of sport climbing. After doing some easier stuff I went for the flash of the 12b and managed to clip the chains sans falls. (I'm feeling pretty confident in my sport climbing now and want to try some harder onsights) Then I moved over to my project Slack Face(5.12d). It starts with the first crux of the 12b then goes straight into a crux section of 5.12c. On my last go I got to the last crux move then fell, On the plus side I found a bump that should help me send this line soon. Then Dom went for the onsight of Angle of the Dangle, a 5.12c roof crack with sport in between. I went for the flash and entered the crux with a semi ring-lock with the right hand and a sketchy hand jam for the left; I tried to dyno but my right hand didn't come out of the crack(my body dynoed but my hand stayed in place) So close yet so far... On the way down I cleaned the draws then swung out and well the fixed piece in the crack blew, and before I could do anything, I was falling on top of Eric(he was belaying me) We both ate it and were ok except for some minor cuts. Dom was laughing his head off as it must of been hilarious to have witnessed. (Read his blog for more details, I was falling so I couldn't see everything) ;)
On a side note I did my first ever real trad lead. A 5.9 and I placed my first cam ever and it didn't get stuck! At the end it was a pretty good trip and I plan on coming back to finish off Slack Face and some more of this trad stuff... -jc

1 comment:

dom said...

Jimmy getting into trad!? My whole world has been turned upside down.

Yea that fall was pretty funny, I'm just glad you guys were ok. I wish I was still filming, that would have been priceless!