Sunday, November 28, 2010

Bishop!

Wow, last week was not long enough! On this trip to Bishop, Team Oly comprimised of Me, Kevin, Micah, Derek, Jeremy, Reese, and Olcay! After running into four snow storms on the way down we missed Derek and his crew, so we decided to head to the Buttermilks. After warming up on the Iron Man Traverse V4, the best problem in Bishop, Kevin stepped up to the plate and flashed the testpiece fo his first Bishop Send! After a quick inspection, Fly Boy was icy so we moved over to Soul Slinger where Micah and Kevin made quick work to the crux, but once again the top out was icy. Next we migrated over to Evilution to the Lip V10, and got to work. The first throw to a right hand crimp took awhile to dial in, but two burns later Dan was giving me all the beta and I clawed my way to the lip! This is such a cool wall, steep, incut crimps, and flat landing! Perfect! Next was a quick trip to the happies where we played around on Jug start to acid wash right V7. After a cold night camping by the sads we finally met up with Derek, Jeremy, Reese and Olcay.

Day two was spent at the Happies and after an impresive send of the Hulk V6 by Kevin(with new beta) I began to mess around on Disco Diva V8 with Sam from the Stone Gardens climbing team, Derek and Micah. After watching a super tall dude cruise I borrowed the beta, and with some minor improvisions(dyno) sent this tricky and fun line! After watching some good burns on Morning Dove White we headed around the corner to Every Color you Are V6, a fun powerful line. After a sending I tried Mr. Witty V6, a highly technical V6 that shut me down cold. Shout out to Jeremy for crushing this line! Before leaving the Canyon we swung by Atari V6, a line I've been meaning to do for years. It was well worth the effort(glad to flash too, the fall is a complete miind trip!)

Day three was spent at a new spot for me called the sad Boulders. I instantly fell in love with this sector on some though provoking yet powerful warm ups. First up was Rio's Crack V6, and after a foot slip, sent this crimp line next go! Also, Olcay pulled out a surprised send right before we moved the pads too! Next was Pow Pow V8, another classic that involved compression and it went first go. The problem had such great moves and perfect incuts, Sweet! Then we migrated down into the ice caves. Beefcake V10 was the objective and after blindly(almost) finding the sequence I climbed all the way to the finish jug and snagged it by the tips! After a refresh the line went second go. I would've liked to stay and try the other lines but the sun was heading over the horizon and the mercury was falling.

The last two days were spent in the Milks, I was pretty sore by then and my fingers didn't exactly want to to crimp anymore. Micah and Olcay both dispatched High Plains V7 which was fun to watch. Kevin also flashed Smooth Shrimp V6/5, and Micah sent promptly. I then convinced Kevin to Project Bubba Gump V10/9 with me and I came close but not close enough to the final crimp.

The trip was fun except for the ever present snow on basically every high hill on the drive to and from Bishop. I've also noticed my style of climbing on trips like these have changed. I now prefer to spend all day on one problem, suss out the beta, then send later on that day or trip. I love how every problem in Bishop seems classic, more or less solid, and contains fun movements. Now, I can't wait to come back next winter and try the harder and more classic lines. Hopefully some climbing team kids as well as Lisa could come to and have a blast as well as crush some of these world Class Bouldering lines. Thanks again to Micah for driving down and to the whole Team Oly, it was a fun and hilarious trip, which keeps Bishop special.
Olcay on Morning Dove WhiteOlcay sending Rio's Crack in the Sads
A View from the volcanic tablelandKevin on High Plains Drifter

Not to many pictures this time, but lots of sending/sun bathing, a video of some sends will be posted soon...

1 comment:

Micah Bryan Humphrey said...

The pics of Olcay and Kevin are really good Jimmy.
Nice job this trip! Evilution is such a sick problem, can't wait to try it next year (along with everything I else I fell of off of :)
Thanks for the great trip!