Gold Bar: Progres...

On Sunday Kevin and I decided to go to the 5 Star boulder out at gold bar after a brutal trek in with 5 pads we made to the boulder. after a quick warm up Kevin began projecting the 5 Star Arete V6. With Josh's beta he then sent for his first V6! I then gave Ross Bongo V9 some burns and with more good beta from Josh managed to get past the first move and got to the last hard move! I have some crazy beta for the middle and I sure this line will go in the fall with sub 80 temps. With all the breakages the line is probably easier for those with reach but I feel it's still V9. Next we headed around the corner to Sobriosity V6 and Kevin began working it. I tried a few times before the beta came back to me and then I can say it is a V6(way harder to onsight though). After watching Josh send Ebriosity V11 I got pyshced. Armed with the beta I managed to get half way through the problem! Then after the crux Iron Cross I hopped on here and did all the finish moves! Then I tried to suss out the crux but with the temps increasing my heel wouldn't stay but I managed to do one more move, leaving only one left! I'm really pysched on trying hard stuff now because they appear doable. One more day of bouldering is on the schedule for thur. at the upper area and then it's back to ropes to get Californication 5.13a sent(it feels like a cloud over my head that i need to send quickly before i forget the moves) Then once this is accomplished I think It'll be Chronic, Gerbil Killer, Flat Liner. We'll see...

Little Si: Hot!

So on Friday the Oly crew decided to climb at WW1 on the hottest day of the year so far. Needless to say we had the crag to ourselves and the rock was greasy. Besides that, I tried flat liner, 13c, and managed to work half way up it. I'm looking forward to giving this line some serious effort in the near future.
Also on Wed, two new/retro routes were established on TR, Pete and Ted's True Stories 11d/12a, and Never Give a Shit 12d/13a. I'll have to get Dom to help hound out the final grades of theses new lines that are set to be bolted shortly. The future looks like, gold bar Sun, Crawling on mon, quarry wed, gold thur/fri, Little Si Sun... I (heart) my driving license! I'm looking forward to sending the projects at Little Si now so I'm predicting a fun and pumpy end to summer...

Tieton: No hangs, no snakes

Dom Taking pictures of Micah on Trigger Finger
Micah approaching the chains on Trigger Finger
Micah on Trigger Finger
After the warm up....
Early Picasso...

This was, by far, one of the funnest climbing trips I've been on in a long while. For the Saturday and sunday of the 4th of July weekend, Micah, Dom, Laura, and I all South to try some of the more moderate routes available at Tieton. For Micah and myself, the weekend began a day earlier with some Mo' Little Si Action on Friday. I sussed out the beta for Chronic, 13b, and now have decided and 3 projects in this order, Californication 13a, Gerbil Killer 13a, Chronic 13b, and maybe Flat Liner 13c if enough time. I also lead 12a/b/c/d and Friday for the first time ever too! So after sleeping in on Saturday and scrambling to pack all my things we headed out around 11:00 and set up camp next to a meadow. The first crag encountered was The Oasis and Dom, Micah, and Myself all wanted this 12a onsight. Dom went first and fell at the last hard move, Micah went next and found some better beta but took a hang or two, then it was my turn armed with both Dom and Micah's beta I gave it a flash attempt and sent! It was a cool climb but no stand out. Our next stop was the Dream Wall located next to Lava Point. the sun was starting to set behind the trees so we only squeezed in two pitches apiece on some rather neat 10's.

Sunday's plan was to go to The cave wall. This was a nice crag with shade options all day long. We started off at the Oak Wall, and I did a cool overhanging 10d as well as a 12a onsight. Then began the adventure of ticking and putting the draws up on the 5.12c, trigger finger. To do this I headed up a slightly run out 10c slab and almost barndoored off a hold but kept it together. Then I lower off on the overhanging side and placed the draws checking out the amazing crimps and holds on the arete. After the inspection I got ready and headed up. I managed to do most of the moves how I intended but found some easier beta up high. Then at the last bolt I was on a sloper and an ok jug my right and only foot popped and sent a square 50 cent sized chunk hurtling towards Dom. He took immediately and dodged the bullet while pulling me off. I then began yelling 'I'm still on' and he then gave me some slack and I successfully clipped the chains for the flash. Next up was Dom whom with the running beta and some improvisation flashed as well! Next were some cool 5.11s and out of nowhere Micah pulls off a 5.11d onsight! Way to go! We then piled into the Subaru and headed back to Olympia through the rain and clouds.

One Down...

After Fridays reopener of the Sport Climbing season at Little Si, Micah and I decided to head on out for a return trip. I got dropped off at the base due to lisa's Vollyball match, and headed on up the trail an hour early until Micah arrived. After a quick burn on Psycho for a warm up I hopped on Californicator 5.12d and managed a clean one hang. I then gave it a second burn and one hanged a bolt further. I was decently tired by now and after a 1/2 hour or so of rest I gave it another burn just cause and before I knew it I was at the 'typewriter hold'!! This is the high point from last year. Then I got mentally prepared and busted out left on the smiley face crimp, moved the feet up, hit the sidepull, and then moved my left hand to a gaston just below the actual one, and then hit the hold and crossed the other up and then one last cross to the mid-jug!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This was my all time high point! I then mentally relaxed and began the 7 minute shake out. After I collected myself I then headed through the upper part that felt easier this year and I managed to stick every hold and honed in the feet and sent!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was happy and surprised but Micah was more surprised.

Season Opener

This past week began the oficial start of the rope season for myself. It started off with a re-season opner at the quarry on wed. with an outstanding 19 participants. Sadly, half the problems were wet. Some notable sends were Luarra's and Sierra's red points of The Manly Wham, 5.11a. Also Victoria from the climbing team ventured out onto the real rock and Tr flashed Calvin and Hobbes and did all the moves on The manly wham! I, cough, finally, cough, sent all the established problems at the quarry. It took a year longer than it should due to my preconceived worries of the 5.11c Riddler. They proved unfounded and after watching Dom cruise it I sent! Now to do them all in a year!
Next was a Friday trip up to little si, my 4th climbing trip with ME driving. With only a minor red light sudden deceleration the trip went flawless and i enjyed the company and catches from the likes of Dom, Luarra, Lisa and Andrew. It was a good first day back with some good burns on Pyschosamtic, Techno' and Californicator. I have a good feeling 'bout Califonicato and hopefully it'll go soon. Andrew managed the send of Abo'. I'm now looking forward to some more clippin' action!

Signs of Summer: L-twon part II

The Tree Problem-Leavenworth from Jimmy C. on Vimeo.

Well last weekend wasn't enough to satisfy our craving for granite blocks so Micah and I headed back out to finish up some business. The first stop were the sword boulders where I messed around on zorro some more then after playing on a few others I steered Micah towards the Tree Problem, V8. After an almost flash, he sent shortly after and I managed to make one of my best vids ever! After this success we packed up and made the hike to the Bond Boulders above the Fridge. We threw the pads down and began hucking off of From Russia with Love, V9. Then Micah remembered the key toe hook and the problem became doable. I was managing the first move pretty well and was hucking top the sun-basking lip, slipping off and landing 2-3 past the pads on the nicely built up landing(Which freaked out Micah every time but I'm over my fear of falling while bouldering). The climax was the desperate two hander that failed. After sticking the lip for a few seconds then falling I called it quits and it was off to Geronimo.
Once here I gave it a good burn and managed the send first go of the day as micah was about to take out the camera, oh well. Then at Yoda The brutal huck-fest began again but this time Micah pointed out a small left foot and, well, a few burns later and I was up on top! Micah came close too a lot of times the sun peaked over the boulder and zapped the phsyche right out of us. We then decided to throw in the towel and a good successful last L-town trip and started planning the Little Si summer. I'll probably be back to Leavenworth with the family but ideally not till October...

Ropes & Boulders...+Video

Geramino V9 from Jimmy C. on Vimeo.

4 years ago form this weekend we pulled into the swiftwater parking lot for my first taste of leavenworth granite(pre-guidebook). Using the free topo from climbingwashington.com we meander around finding some contrived lines and falling in love with the place. I had the same feeling when i reluctantly left late Sat. night. Friday afternoon Lisa and I piled into the Pilot. First stop was supposed to be Poison Ivy Crack, but due to private property dwellings we couldn't find an aproach trail. So option b was attempt the small crag on the eastside of Madesen's Buttress. I gave La cucaracha, 5.10d trad, a go and after a long couple minutes scraped my way to the top for the hetchy-sketchy onsight. I learned for parallel cracks, cams are needed... Next was a bolted line not in the old guidebook that looked 5.9 but is accutally a 5.12a. Lisa went for the onsight and hung down low and I managed a beta flash! Next up was the 5.10 looking mixed climb and lisa gave a burn but downclimbed. I put in my two cams at the start(I needed one size up though) and headed on up the climb, comitted to the move that I thought was a match in a shallow pocket, BUT I chickened out attempted to down climb, fell and one cam popped but the back up held! This now is my second ever trad fall! This ended our rope adventure and we headed to the campground...
The following day we met up with Micah at JY. First, Lisa and I stopped at the Sword Boulders where I messed around on Zoro some more. This line will probslly take a whole day to complete. Once micah arrived we headed over to the Strainer, a powerfull lokking V9. I managed the send in a few goes and deffinately see how taller people could considder it soft. I personally liked it because it was a sustained powere problem to the very top(just ask Micah ;) ). After a couple more goes Micah hit the finish nob and sent his first hard problem of the year!!!!!
Next up was the forestland fiasco then we headed over to Mountain Home Road to try Geramino V9. This is one of the cooler looking aretes around. I'd lost a lot of my psyche by this time but still managed to slap the finish a couple times. I'm looking forward to the send next time I'm here. But micah looking really strong kept it together and sent! his 2nd V9 of the Day! Next we went on an exploritory trip then headed to the star wars boulders and began projecting Yoda. It is surprisingly doable and i was coming an inch within the jug.
All in all it was a good vacation and it was like old times bouldering with Micah in Leavenworth. Once little si dries out it will be rope season but till then more L-town and Gold Bar, and Squamish is just around the corner!

Movie of Micah on Geramino coming soon!