Monday, July 5, 2010

Tieton: No hangs, no snakes

Dom Taking pictures of Micah on Trigger Finger
Micah approaching the chains on Trigger Finger
Micah on Trigger Finger
After the warm up....
Early Picasso...

This was, by far, one of the funnest climbing trips I've been on in a long while. For the Saturday and sunday of the 4th of July weekend, Micah, Dom, Laura, and I all South to try some of the more moderate routes available at Tieton. For Micah and myself, the weekend began a day earlier with some Mo' Little Si Action on Friday. I sussed out the beta for Chronic, 13b, and now have decided and 3 projects in this order, Californication 13a, Gerbil Killer 13a, Chronic 13b, and maybe Flat Liner 13c if enough time. I also lead 12a/b/c/d and Friday for the first time ever too! So after sleeping in on Saturday and scrambling to pack all my things we headed out around 11:00 and set up camp next to a meadow. The first crag encountered was The Oasis and Dom, Micah, and Myself all wanted this 12a onsight. Dom went first and fell at the last hard move, Micah went next and found some better beta but took a hang or two, then it was my turn armed with both Dom and Micah's beta I gave it a flash attempt and sent! It was a cool climb but no stand out. Our next stop was the Dream Wall located next to Lava Point. the sun was starting to set behind the trees so we only squeezed in two pitches apiece on some rather neat 10's.

Sunday's plan was to go to The cave wall. This was a nice crag with shade options all day long. We started off at the Oak Wall, and I did a cool overhanging 10d as well as a 12a onsight. Then began the adventure of ticking and putting the draws up on the 5.12c, trigger finger. To do this I headed up a slightly run out 10c slab and almost barndoored off a hold but kept it together. Then I lower off on the overhanging side and placed the draws checking out the amazing crimps and holds on the arete. After the inspection I got ready and headed up. I managed to do most of the moves how I intended but found some easier beta up high. Then at the last bolt I was on a sloper and an ok jug my right and only foot popped and sent a square 50 cent sized chunk hurtling towards Dom. He took immediately and dodged the bullet while pulling me off. I then began yelling 'I'm still on' and he then gave me some slack and I successfully clipped the chains for the flash. Next up was Dom whom with the running beta and some improvisation flashed as well! Next were some cool 5.11s and out of nowhere Micah pulls off a 5.11d onsight! Way to go! We then piled into the Subaru and headed back to Olympia through the rain and clouds.

1 comment:

NM said...

Congrats Jimmy on all your excellent climbing as of late. every grade of .12 in a day was a gr8 milestone! Keep it up man : )