Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Little Si: Breakthrough...

O.k. Don't fall here, trust the sloping foot, o.k., now left up to hand hold crimp. Right hand gaston, left to jug CHAINS! YES, I just sent the extension to Californicator, Californication 5.13a! Now my year is complete with a 7c+ bouldering and sport climbing! Lisa and I headed out to little si to meet up with some good Friends from the comp scene, Alex Fritz and Sam Wolf. Alex is an amazing sport climber and Sam is a, ah, boulderer. Needless to say, he sent techno with his own(wrong) beta and with messing up every other crux with out resting still crushed. Then Alex wanted to 'train' on Chronic, got to chains And then kept on going. Not to long after he clipped the chains of Lizzard prince 5.13b! First go! I then scooted on over to Gerbil Killer 13a and sussed out the beta taking at each clip to find the dang holds. Armed with some very helpful beat from Tyson I pulled the rope and gave it a good Red point burn. I managed all of the Gerbil parts clean but just couldn't recover on Psycho and fell off the dang crimp feet from the chains! So close to two 13s in a day! Next time. Lisa made good progress basically one hanging Prop. and Cali. I'm really proud and excited at have doing both 7c+ on ropes and boulderingin a year. I'm really really liking my fitness level right now and i'm now in love with little si. A new door into the13s has been open and there are tons of new problems to do and project! Next up is a day at gold bar working some tens and (hopefully) a nine to finish off the scorecard. Then fri. is crawling 13a and little si to follow. So the line up at little si is Gerbil Killer 13a, Chronic 13b, Flat Liner 13c and lizard Prince 13b. We'll see how many get done...

2 comments:

Laura said...

nice job jimmy! who knows perhaps 8a in both bouldering in routes? it is likely possiblewith how you are climbing!

NM said...

Congratulations Jimmy!!